Cubs2jets

I ran across this pic on eBay. I think you nailed it! C2j

Often the issue with dulling of NMF is the solvents in clearcoats. The old standbys of Testors Gloss Cote or Dull Cote are lacquer based. They adversely effect NMF. I'm most familiar with Future. Brushing on thin coats with a wide(ish) soft brush works well. Squeeze most of the liquid out of the brush and apply in long strokes. You can see where you applied from the "wetting". Don't panic about dry streaked areas - you can fix them with a second thin layer after the first has dried (about 15 minutes). I don't spray Future. Too hard for me to see where I've covere

ULVDeamon I think you have done a splendid job on that Monogram classic. I like the extra effort to modify to "gear up" inflight. It seems that all operational Skyraiders were really dirty birds - something that I and most others struggle with. I love that you have gotten the exhaust "snudge" on the fuselage and the "drip" on the centerline tank. As a retired pilot, I think "inflight" needs a pilot (unless it's a drone). I find that impressive figure painting skills aren't necessary with a closed canopy. Irregardless, you have done a great job! C2j

If you went out and waxed your real car - and then applied a British roundel from a decal sheet...would it stick? Yes, and when dry you could wax over it. C2j

The bottle of wine, the strawberries or the camera? LOL! C2j

Really nice model of Ship 41! C2j

Copying this over from the Hyperscale forum thread. I don't know if it is any better (though it comes in several metal "shades") but I'm sure it is more expensive. https://ak-interactive.com/product-category/paints/true-metal-paints/ C2j

Like most modelers I struggle with / have a phobia of natural metal finish. I'm looking over at my shelving and see at least three different brands of paint I've bought to try to achieve a nice and "easy" natural metal finish. I like the results you've gotten. And, yes, building a (or several) 1/48 Monogram DC-3's is my dream. I have six in my stash. Please show your finished build when done. The control surfaces were fabric covered and would not have the "polished" look. More like your finish before Rub'n Buff. C2j

Dai - Don't stick the engine in the tail section! ALL the attachment / support for the engine is in the fuselage center section. The tail section literally slips over the tailpipe and attaches to the center section. With various sections of tubing you can extend the tailpipe. You clearly demonstrate that you have the talent / ability. C2j

Dai Phan - a small length of sprue in the opening of the fuselage would act as a spreader making the wing / fuselage side tight. (Next time, right??) C2j

Probably zinc chromate green - as was the cabin interior on the C-47 / R4D. Civilian DC-3 flaps were most likely bare metal. This doesn't help but, in my travels down the rabbit hole to find an answer for you, the only pictures of a DC-3 / C-47 / R4D with flaps down were either on landing or in maintenance. ALL other pics I looked at with the plane parked on the ground show the flaps up. Some of the R4D's had a different nose profile later in life with the addition of weather radar. C2j

Oliver, That is a GREAT scratch build of an Air Traffic Control VHF communications antenna array. I guess if you can see it, you can build it! C2j

Dry, cracked ground? Now THAT'S over the top! Is there no end to your attention to detail?? I'm loving it! C2j

As a Douglas DC-3 / C-47 nut, I really enjoyed Drew's build. Last night I felt lucky to see this build in person at our monthly Club meeting. As good as the pictures are, they just don't do his work justice. The detail work Drew added, the insane riveting detail, the corrections made and - of course - the fantastic effort getting the faded paint work juuuust right make this an IPMS Nationals strong contender. Just WOW!! C2j

And I thought it was GIB... C2j