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SoarinSukhoi

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About SoarinSukhoi

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    Step away from the computer!

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    soarinsukhoi
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    soarinsukhoi@hotmail.com

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  1. I prefer Tamiya cement as well. It gives you more working time than other liquid cements and it's acetone based and a bit safer than dichloromethane based cements like Tenax, Pro-Weld, etc.
  2. Books for Uni., Aeromaster P-47 D-Day stripes and Eduard masks for my Tamiya 1/48 P-47D Razorback and AFV Club 1/35 M5A1 "Bear Of Jinmen" boxing. I wonder if this boxing of the kit is allowed in China.
  3. I don't use Tenax or any brand of dichloromethane, but to apply other liquid cements I use the brush from a Tamiya Extra Thin cap, paint brushes and microbrushes.
  4. I have issues with CA as well. You can also use white glue and epoxy, but white glue isn't very strong. Epoxy also has some nasty fumes, but they don't bug me as much as CA.
  5. You're more likely to drive in a car wreck driving on the way to the airshow.
  6. Thanks for the heads up. I contacted Eduard and will wait and see if they can replace it first.
  7. Mine always clogged as well. These days I only use the brush from Tamiya's Extra Thin Cement cap and microbrushes.
  8. You can use distilled water to thin them, but I prefer using their thinner. Don't use alcohol to thin them.
  9. I am looking for part G55 from any of Eduard's 1/48 Bf 110s.
  10. I moved back up to Uni. and have a flare up of problems so I haven't worked on any of my builds. This will help anyone interested in Building one of Eduard's 1/48 Bf 110s. Buidling Eduard's Bf 110E
  11. The only major difference I can think of between the F and the G are the engines, but I don't think that lead to many external differences if any.
  12. The spinner was the same, but the propeller was from a T-28. You can find the information directly on their website. http://tsunamiairracing.com/
  13. A little smaller how? If you aren't concerned about accuracy, I would use a nicer and easier to build Mustang kit. The Testors P-51D kit is a rebox of the ancient Hawk kit. It lacks detail and has lots of gaps and issues. I'd rank it last on my list of P-51Ds I would build unless Starfix or someone made one I don't know about. My top two choices would be the Tamiya or Hasegawa P-51Ds which you can get really cheap these days. They have plenty of detail, go together easy and have recessed panel lines. My next choice would be the ICM kit followed by Revell/Monogram(same kit? dunno) and ev
  14. The T-28 Trojan used a couple of different propellers in its lifetime. 2 blade or 3? The Testors/Hawk P-51 is the last P-51 kit I would want to use.
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