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Hubbie Marsten

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Everything posted by Hubbie Marsten

  1. Nino, hasn't it ever occurred to you that calling the developer to whom you've helped with this project a liar, a cheating b. and m. f. in public further thwarts the chances that this developer will ever want to get in contact with you? Were I you, I'd insist contacting them in private and in a much more civilised manner. Chill down for a spell and think it over; it'd be wise if you deleted the offending posts to start with.
  2. Feeling that same old AMK vibe on this lonesome thread, anybody? That's both tiresome and sad. Please, don't.
  3. No, you certainly didn't, Jim. I just can't wait to get home in August to take a closer look at my Academy and Hobby Boss Vark kits. I'm looking at an Excel doc I happened to upload on the cloud; I see I've got the 1/48 Verlinden Update set for the Vark. Is there anything I could use on either of my FB-111 kits in it? I think that the Verlinden set is for the F version tho.
  4. Wow... Jim, your info is impressive! Thanks a million, my friend. It's all quite clear now. All of a feat to try and correct the 11.5" gap between the fuselage and the TPII intakes, but I think is doable on the Academy kit more than it's on the Hobby Boss one. It looks like I will have to get a new set of DMold bits from Dmitri. Easily said than done, but looking at the pictures of the TPII suckers on the DMold site, I see that there's also room for replicating the air-water heat exchanger intake; at least there's a solid molded duct for them. Perhaps it's a matter of hollowing out
  5. Had a bunch of those tiny 10ml Tamiya enamel paint bottles dry on me and, instead of trashing them, I got rid of the hardened paint inside by sticking a drill bit into them so that the dried paint would divide into smaller bits which could exit the bottle on the opening. Then I adapted a dry chunk of 0000 steel wool around the shaft of an electric milk froth to scrub the rest of the paint from the glass. I didn't have to use any kind of thinner. Those jars come in handy everytime.
  6. Jim, if only you could please put this into graphics because somehow I fail to accomplish where your plan is to cut at, and where to fair the intakes into the fuselage by the panel line at the trailing edge of the landing gear door. Also, if you could elaborate on the instrument panel tilted back so that there was 11" of glare shield exposed above it.  That book would certainly be much welcome! Thanks Jim.
  7. Oh, I see... Ouch! And I was about to ask Jim whether or not the DMold resin intakes fixed that issue...
  8. Jim! Sure I can, once I'm back home in August the 1st. But why would you want to check whether the ResKit bit for the Academy kit will fit the Hobby Boss one for? ResKit has one bit for each kit.
  9. I do; I bought both the Academy and Hobby Boss 1/48 FB-111A kits, and while the Academy exhaust are correct, they're very basic and lacking detail. They will stand out like torches on the detailed Hobby Boss kit.
  10. Well, the shape, size and contour of the afterburner ring petals for the F are quite different from the rest in the ResKit photos, if you take a good look.
  11. And what about bonding brass parts to styrene with two-part epoxy glue?
  12. That's confirmed. The Hobby Boss Vark kit has the same parts layout as the Academy ones so, owing to the deeper main landing gear bay well in the former, there's a little mod to be done in the upper aft corner of the well where the walls meet the inner trunks of the DMold intakes. Granted, Janne, but you can always put the pilots in the cockpit as per engines warming up. Pilots always give a reference of the size of the kit with relation of the real thing.
  13. No expert on the Vark, but if I recall correctly, the A/B/C/D/E all use variations of the TF-30 engines (P-3 and P-9 mostly) that delivered around the 12000 lbs of thrust dry, while the F-111F had the P-100/109 which delivered 25100 lbs of thrust dry. The FB-111A had the P-7 delivering 12500 lbs of thrust. Perhaps is this why ResKit makes a different exhaust burner can for just the F-111F? We should flash the signal for @mrvark on the night sky for a more professional input.
  14. Bummer, these look even better than the 1/48 G-Factor ones I've already got for mine. Yep, especially the Hobby Boss Varks, as the afterburner ring lacks one segment in it.
  15. Speaking of bite and the Jaws sign in the background of that McFly meme, I kind of could feel the sound cue of the big shark slowly marauding its victim in the film, but in the form of @terrysumner, very close round this thread.
  16. Funny you're speaking about a time paradox, Mark, as I myself had to go back to page 153 to find out Marty McFly had already been to the future to tell us this: Now take a good look at how dejected his expression is.
  17. Brad, do you think the rear end on this kit is too big (or complex) for somebody to come out with an aftermarket correction set soon after the AMK kit is finally released, like Hypersonic Models did with the Zoukei-Mura Phantom kits? The incorrect rear end is about the only issue which puts me off buying this kit so far.
  18. Sure Yufei's gonna have some more available in no time. I've finally got one. It's not arrived yet, tho.
  19. Never mind, Mark; take your time. Hope you get better soon. Thanks a lot, my friend.
  20. Corey, Of course I believe you. I never had first-hand proof of the quality on the Attic sets; you did. It's months since we've been in discussion with a vendor on eBay who's telling me to wait until September for the casting of new sets of the Attic 1/48 B-29 Turretless conversion sets. He even told me that the resin sets correct the misalignment issue with the windshield on the Monogram kit and stuff (think he's grooming me). I don't even want to imagine the huge mess it would be that awful quality of resin on those four large sub-assemblies which comprise the forward and aft fusel
  21. Is it that bad, Corey? The set is temporarily out of stock, and I haven't been able to find any WIPs online which showed or spoke about the quality of the set. You, having had it in person, I've got no choice but to take your word for it. Could you please elaborate on the issues on the resin?
  22. Patience, Mark. I suppose you should get it this week. Okay, would you please have it compared to the Hasegawa kit pieces once the Fairy Hobby bit reaches your home? Thanks. I agree. Don't know what the market would be for a 1/6th scale kit. You've got to be much more than a Thud buff to invest in it. Also, I can't but wonder what the cost would be for a kit that size, considering that the Thud is a big kit already in 1/48. Now, 1/48 and 1/32 would sell like hot cakes. Amen, Lucio; amen.
  23. Jim! Thanks a lot, sincerely. You're becoming my personal hero on this site. Nice to know. Very kind of you, my friend. By the way, I've been looking over the particulars you pointed to me with regard to the missing flare-out in the Monogram Thud, and how this affect the dimensions of the instrument panel. I found out there used to be a photoetch set by Eduard, #48393, that helps fixing it, while it dresses the ejection seat and inner exhaust ring like a bride. Unfortunately, is nowhere to be found. While at it, I've still found out about this: TLJC 1/6th Hyper Scale F105D
  24. Hi Mark Have you received yours yet? Have you got either the Hasegawa or Monogram kits to see whether the Fairy Hobby canopy fits them?
  25. Thanks Jim! Aaaaand... for 1/48? Lucky chap! How about some experimentation on the Hasegawa and/or Monogram single-seat Eagle kits? Thanks Matt.
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