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haneto

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About haneto

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    Full Blown Model Geek
  • Birthday 08/01/1982

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  1. When I was getting mad drilling those rivets, I built some accessories to change the mood... I'm also scratch-building a PLA pilot. To be continued...
  2. So after the busy May, June and 1st half of July (coutinous biz trips in Wuhan, Beijing, Tianjin, Guangzhou, Dalian and Tokyo), I finally could make some update. Yes I'm still modeling the Flanker little by little. You can find the kit was designed with full rivets lay out, but some rivets are too shallow to hold washing, especially the stabilizers. So I used 0.15mm and 0.2mm drill to deepen them, one by one. Fortunately I do NOT need to add rivets by myself but only deepen them, so just some patience is all you need. Turn on the cooler and Hi-Fi in my work room, one hour before sleeping and it still took me about 10 nights to deepen all the rivets. After coating with Mr. Surface No.1500, I still used No.2000 sand paper to polish the surface, for a definite smooth effect bring to the camo painting. And this is how the final result looks like after surfacing. Rivets on stabilizers are very shallow, be sure to deepen them. Thanks to the good fitting of the kit, I will paint/weather parts before gluing them to avoid the annoying any obvious painting granule around the corners.
  3. Thanks for every one's watching especially some old buddy from China! ;)
  4. Thanks for your encouragement. I used ERGO 5400 and 5600 super glue. They dry so fast and so strong, highly recommended. The wire I used are brass from electric wire, neither too soft like weld line nor too hard like normal brass line. Drill a hole at the end of the wiring, glue the wire and use a sharp twizer to bend it to correct shape, then glue at the right place just like real thing, then repeating bend/glue again. Very tiring and time cosuming, but worth all the effort after painting. HTH Yufei
  5. Now finally I can glue the upper and lower fuselage parts. Fitting is quite good so only very slight sanding work is necessary. Some panels and rivets are soft on the front half of upper fuselage so I rescribed/drilled them. It seems that PLAAF obmit the ECM antennas on LERX so I filled the original panel lines and rivets by putty. I'm quite pleasant with the fitting and thanks to brilliant part break down there was almost no stress to fit them together. So at last, I can paint...to be continued...
  6. Also some addtional work. Add one wire on left main gear door (yes it's only on left gear door). Also piping the alcohol storage bottle. There is some slight shrinkage on fron gear door so I chose to flatten them by some putty.
  7. Thank you all for the nice comments! Some new updates but still very slow (busy daily work and family service!). So I finished painting intakes and trunks. Nothing special, just pay attention to the small holes decal position. And decal show looks like this: I found another place which may cause assembling issue.
  8. Nose gear. By the way all wheels are not glued to landing gear. I will glue the wheels in last minute after landing gears are installed, to assure all weighted tires stand on the same flat surface. Now finally it's time to glue the upper and lower fuselage. To be continued... Thanks for watching. Yufei
  9. Landing gears after detailing, painting and weathering.
  10. Generally Flanker is not a tail sitter but I still added one 10g metal weight just to avoid any suprise in case.
  11. Main gear bays. Some parts are not mounted because I want to make masking easier for painting the fuselage. Will install them once fuselage camo is finished.
  12. Nose gear bay. Do NOT fill the center line since it is there in real life. Just add some rivets and it will looks fine.
  13. Don't forget the lower fuselage gear bay colour! Landing gears and actuators.
  14. Thank you all for your encouragements guys! And sorry for keeping silent for a while due to a super busy May (3 weeks on biz trips!). So finally I finished painting job for all landing gear relevant parts. Yes again, I took kit parts breakdown advantage to paint/weather the parts BEFORE gluing to make the final effect as neat as I can. And again these are the colour charts for details I made, all based on my research on real life photos. All by GSI Creos Mr Color lacquer paint.
  15. I used Galaxy Model pre-cut masking sheet. I strongly recommend you which is a must have for the build! With the masking sheet's help I could even paint the light grey sealing material between the glass and black frames. This kit is designed to have your canopy to be swithed bewteen open and close at any time you want, to enjoy both beautiful profile of the Flanker and cockpit details. To be continued......
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