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haneto

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About haneto

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    Full Blown Model Geek
  • Birthday 08/01/1982

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  1. I see. i just rechecked the Mr Color chart and found I made the typo. C305 should be FS36118. Will correct that. Sorry for the confusion.
  2. Yeah the ones on Su-35 are just very dark. Check refs man.
  3. PLA camo color are opposite to RusAF, the overall light blue is replaced by light grey. And darkest blue is lighter on PLA than RuAF. Camo pattern is similar but a bit different on wing tips. I have lots of PLA Su-35 photos from my resources but since it's still classifed somehow, I can only post 2 of them with some adds on. Others are from PLAAF official resourse.
  4. No buddy, PLAAF camo is totally different than RuAF. Main color is light grey instead of blue, check the fuselage camo pattern.
  5. Actually I almost finished camo on main parts, but now pending to Chinese font stencils which are under designing. I cannot paint other colors on other details since I need to spray the semi gloss surface once decals attached, to make different surface texture on the fuselage again, like what I did on missiles. So let me save the explanation to next update. To be continued......
  6. Under some aspect you can find the different surface texture on the missiles. Gloss, semi gloss, flat or metalic This shows how good a modeller has spent time to learn and understand the missile in real life. Meanwhile a great fun from modelling as well.
  7. The deadly R-73, no second to AIM-9X even much aged.
  8. Not a big fan of R-77, looks too Western.
  9. My favourite missile R-27, looks so Russian!
  10. There's nothing cannot be done by communist rockets, if there is, make it double!
  11. Thanks for watching and sorry for the abesence guys. Met some accident during my summer vocation in Koh Samui when I slippered in swimming pool and my foot thumb nail had to be removed by surgery. During my rest at home finally finished weapon painting. Besides the AA missiles provided by GWH I also added B-13L rocket launchers which are very common for PLAAF training. The outloads, look simple but took tons of efforts and patience. Different colours and surface texture means many masking works, both spray work and brush paint. And since outloads are usually stored very well they are generally brand new, which means you need to paint them as neat as you can since no weathering trick to cover your miss.
  12. When I was getting mad drilling those rivets, I built some accessories to change the mood... I'm also scratch-building a PLA pilot. To be continued...
  13. So after the busy May, June and 1st half of July (coutinous biz trips in Wuhan, Beijing, Tianjin, Guangzhou, Dalian and Tokyo), I finally could make some update. Yes I'm still modeling the Flanker little by little. You can find the kit was designed with full rivets lay out, but some rivets are too shallow to hold washing, especially the stabilizers. So I used 0.15mm and 0.2mm drill to deepen them, one by one. Fortunately I do NOT need to add rivets by myself but only deepen them, so just some patience is all you need. Turn on the cooler and Hi-Fi in my work room, one hour before sleeping and it still took me about 10 nights to deepen all the rivets. After coating with Mr. Surface No.1500, I still used No.2000 sand paper to polish the surface, for a definite smooth effect bring to the camo painting. And this is how the final result looks like after surfacing. Rivets on stabilizers are very shallow, be sure to deepen them. Thanks to the good fitting of the kit, I will paint/weather parts before gluing them to avoid the annoying any obvious painting granule around the corners.
  14. Thanks for every one's watching especially some old buddy from China! ;)
  15. Thanks for your encouragement. I used ERGO 5400 and 5600 super glue. They dry so fast and so strong, highly recommended. The wire I used are brass from electric wire, neither too soft like weld line nor too hard like normal brass line. Drill a hole at the end of the wiring, glue the wire and use a sharp twizer to bend it to correct shape, then glue at the right place just like real thing, then repeating bend/glue again. Very tiring and time cosuming, but worth all the effort after painting. HTH Yufei
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