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About haneto

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    Full Blown Model Geek
  • Birthday 08/01/1982

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  1. I used Galaxy Model pre-cut masking sheet. I strongly recommend you which is a must have for the build! With the masking sheet's help I could even paint the light grey sealing material between the glass and black frames. This kit is designed to have your canopy to be swithed bewteen open and close at any time you want, to enjoy both beautiful profile of the Flanker and cockpit details. To be continued......
  2. IFR tube details painted by hand brush.
  3. "Irbis-E" rador, the mass production version.
  4. And what's inside of the canopy......
  5. The final effect of the whole cockpit. Totally out of box. Yes with some patience you can get that too!
  6. K-36D-5 ejection seat, latest model of K-36 family. Now only used by Su-30SM, Su-35 and Su-57.
  7. Frames in side the canopy.
  8. After my visit to Shizuoka last weekend, I finally finished painting the first part, cockpit and rador. Since many colors on details were not added in the instruction sheet which was finished in just about 3 days, I added the color by studying real life pictures for your references. The color I used are all Gunze GSI Creos Mr Color lacquer paints.
  9. Thanks Berkut, yes the 1/72 scale version is under desgin stage. Shall hit the market say within this year? Nicolas I bought these tiny magnets in China and they are really cheap (3 bucks for 50 pieces). Maybe you can buy some if you have a chance to visit China... Thanks Deino. Yes I saw those images taken by Russian friends online. There is rumour that this A/C flied back to Russia for repair. Interesting Russian dark blue camo on the vertical fins, maybe the factory guy just used up the Chinese blue so grad the Russian one? ;) Thanks all for your encouragement! Yufei
  10. Thanks for checking and from this weekend finally I can start painting this beast. I will paint most of the parts BEFORE assembling, and that's the purpose we made the parts arrangement. Most of parts have at least one gate which will be invisible after gluing, so you can keep that gate/sprue on the part for easier removing parting lines, painting and weathering. And that's why I tried to solve all the assembling issues before painting, for smoother assembling experience going forward. So as always I sprayed Gunze Creos #1500 surfacer on all parts, to check if the parting line has been removed thoroughly. And just as I said above, you can see I leave some sprue/one gate on some small parts especially those fragile pipes for easy handling and also sort of protection. To be continued...
  11. Thanks Dude! Look forward to your finished work! Must be so brilliant I'm sure! Yufei
  12. Thanks mates! I forgot several pics here. I replaced the plastic dischargers with Master metal ones. Those are definitely recommended! Actually the plastic dischargers on T1 sprues were only half diameter compared with current ones(mass production ver), but unfortunately they were too fragile to deal with so tool factory had to make them fatter. I also recommend you to deepen the rivets on radome part sides by 0.3mm drill. You can only find very shallow trace of the rivets there but you can use them as guide. The reason why those rivets are so shallow is due to injection mold technical limitation (the direction of pulling part out of mold). To be continued...
  13. Now that all the hard/boring (in my personal opinion) work is finished, finally I can start my beloved painting job! To be continued...
  14. And these are the final result.