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RedHeadKevin

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About RedHeadKevin

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    Full Blown Model Geek
  • Birthday 03/07/1978

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    RedHeadKevin
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    Male
  • Location
    Haverhill, Mass.
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    Modeling, duh.

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  1. When I go to shows, I see people winning several categories, and getting several trophies (My local shows give out plaques. I don't know if other shows give out something else.) After moving houses last summer, I realized just how these plaques can add up. I was just wondering what you guys do with all the stuff you win? Do you keep them forever? Do you throw out the old ones? I've started using the plaques to make bases for my models. They're a great size, and take just a little work to make them look really nice.
  2. Genre: Modern US equipment Favorite Scale: 1/48 for airplanes, 1/35 for armor Brand: I never had much brand loyalty. If a brand came out with a better kit, I'll build it. (Looking at you, Academy F-15E's. Revell is better. Tamiya's F-16 are better than Hasegawa, etc.) But truthfully, since Bandai released their line of Star Wars kits, most of my answers have changed. I've enjoyed the hell out of building anything Bandai has from the Galaxy Far, Far Away, in any scale. They really made modeling fun again. I don't have to put in 3 pounds of resin and PE, and the kits practically fall together.
  3. Aaaaand cue the "Double Penetration" jokes.
  4. 3d Printing seemed like a great idea, and some of the stuff you can print is pretty impressive. But it's not about to replace traditional injection-molded model kits, at least for a long, long while. Until you can print without visible layers and print lines, it's difficult to get a lot of shapes, or a smooth, crisp surface. Not unless you have a printer that's basically priced out of the home modeler's range. Also, most of what gets 3D printed can be made easier, cheaper, and faster with other means, like a laser cutter or just traditional model building techniques like foamcore or sheet styrene. Once the really high-quality, high-precision printers are available for the home user, and we can print with durable materials, like manufacturing-grade materials, then 3D printing will be useful. By the way, if we were to make a new sub-forum, I suggest a "Model Show" section, with reports and pictures from local, regional, and national model shows.
  5. The best explanation of adapting the speeders for Hoth was (I think) from the Incredible Cross-Sections book. The large radiator on the back of the speeder was designed for hotter climates, and was actually releasing too much heat for the cold Hoth environment, causing the speeders to freeze up. They welded metal plates to the sides of the radiator blades to slow the release of the heat. Sure. That makes sense. I'm building this kit, and it's blowing me away how crappy the paint job on the actual studio models looks. There are lots of painting issues, spider-webbed airbrushing, drips, etc. It's kind of disheartening to see what the "real" thing looks like. Although it makes me feel better about my own painting skills! Also... you know you put the guns on backward, right?
  6. For plastic sprue cutters, and these are actually pretty tough, I like this set from Home Depot. 14 bucks and you get nice needle-nose pliers, too. You might not want to cut wire with them, but get some wire cutters for that. Even an inexpensive pair will do a good job. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Crescent-4-in-Shear-Cutter-Plier-Set-2-Piece-S2KS5N/206872615 I also got a few sets of these cheap-o ones from Wish.com, and I think they make cleaner cuts than my Xuron sprue cutters. https://www.wish.com/search/wire cuters/product/5a065f7fb43a7e5e11f9d0ad?&source=search
  7. Wow, good eye! That is indeed a cut-down floor protector (just cut it in half.) The green material is a self-healing cutting mat. I found one without stuff printed on it.
  8. Over the summer, I bought a house with my girlfriend, and I took over a corner of the basement for my model shop. I looked at some store-bought desks and tables, but nothing was just right. Then I was able to acquire a couple cabinets with a huge, yet simple desk. It's just 3/4" plywood, cut down to size. I screwed a 2x4 into the foundation wall to hold up that end of the desk. The joint at the corner is doweled and screwed together. (It came that way! Saved a ton of work.) I bought a couple LED shop lights from Ocean State Job Lot, and they light the whole "room" right up. The pegboard is also mounted into the concrete. The vertical "backsplash" is made from the scrap plywood. https://photos.app.goo.gl/wGqovbhWm14zMDti7 Then, at one of my many trips to Home Depot, I discovered something called Polywall, which is designed as a wall covering, but it's basically a 4'x8' sheet of white plastic, which stands up to chemicals (Including model glue. I tried gluing 2 scraps together with Tamiya Extra Thin, and nothing happened) It's a good material, but DO NOT USE PENCIL ON IT!! Somehow, pencil marks are permanent. Even Sharpie wipes off with some rubbing alcohol, but pencil is forever. https://photos.app.goo.gl/P6LiNjVkzYfhgWha9 I also built a spray booth right into the desk, and permanently ducted it out the basement window. It's got a squirrel cage fan, and I bought a cheap-o medicine cabinet for the main structure, and to have a plenum between the blower and the filter. It was cheaper than buying a sheet of plywood to build it, and I got a free mirror! https://photos.app.goo.gl/kGdMe9CSbiqDdz8PA I knew I didn't want a huge closed box on my desk all the time, so I hinged the top of the spray booth. It hooks onto the ceiling to keep it up. The scrap trim along the "bottom" hinge actually mates closed when the booth is down, to help support the top. There's a metal channel for the vertical side to key into, to keep me from bumping and collapsing it https://photos.app.goo.gl/amgUyRTogeLA2LpS6 If you want to see the fan setup. I still have to seal up a few air leaks around the fixture that fits the square exhaust to a round duct. https://photos.app.goo.gl/EWP2szCD7ZEJvb8k6 I tried to set up the primary "construction" area so that I could easily get at everything I use daily, with the rest of my stuff in drawers, with the most-used stuff closest to me, and the more esoteric stuff a little further away. https://photos.app.goo.gl/r3kgdvnVzHdNW2oN6 Around the back side are a couple bookcases to hold my model magazines, reference books, decal binder, etc. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Du9u8Xg2taurBU4d9
  9. For Tamiya: Flat Black NATO black Flat white (and/or white primer) Yellow Red Sea Gray Dark Gray Khaki Buff Chrome Silver Clear Red Clear Green
  10. I'm building a new spray booth, and I was wondering what the deal is with using an inline fan, like: for a spray booth fan. The specs say it should have plenty of power to clear an average size spray booth (~160-250 CFM) and blow it through some duct. If it's sucking air through a filter, there shouldn't be much risk of fire, right?
  11. I thought the aerial battle footage was gorgeous in IMAX. Did they actually find flying Me109's, Spitfires, Mosquitos, and He111's? The rest of the movie was okay. I do have a question for WWII RAF buffs:
  12. Does anyone have a spare part #9, the "Cockpit Shielding" from Moebius's Original series Cylon Raider? Just seeing if anyone might have used the PE set and had the plastic one lying around. Thanks!
  13. I've been modeling for going on 30 years now, and I can't believe I've never asked this question. I'm a teacher, and I'm teaching a model building class at my school, for 7th and 8th graders. We go through a lot of supplies, and we're constantly short on white, black, and ghost gray paints. Is there a way to get model-quality paints in larger containers? I've looked into house paints, and they're too thick and don't work well on plastic. I'd really like to keep using acrylics, so auto paint is out. Is there a way to get a half-pint or a couple ounces of a few high-use colors that's as good as say, Tamiya or Testors acrylics?
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