Jump to content

RedHeadKevin

Members
  • Content Count

    1,711
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About RedHeadKevin

  • Rank
    Full Blown Model Geek
  • Birthday 03/07/1978

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    RedHeadKevin
  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Haverhill, Mass.
  • Interests
    Modeling, duh.

Recent Profile Visitors

8,073 profile views
  1. I use Sterilite drawers like these to hold my Tamiya and Model Master paints. You'd need something taller for Alclad paints. But these are cheap, sturdy, and you can pop them apart to add levels.
  2. You don't even necessarily need to use black. For a white spaceship, for example, you could use a lighter gray so you don't need 900 coats of white paint to make it read as white. Or you could do a rusty undercoat under your paint coats. This could be handy for chipping the paint afterward. I love the look of black-basing, but it makes touching up nearly impossible, since you'll have to mix your touch-up paint to match the blended black/color look.
  3. Your diorama looks awesome! I remember the first issue of FSM I ever bought had Lewis Pruneau's scratchbuilt 1/32 B-52D in a very similar diorama.
  4. Here's my workbench. I've since remade the top of the spray booth with thicker wood, since I use it as a shelf most of the time. https://photos.app.goo.gl/MH7PqgqTrkFCwCWs9 The spray booth can open to accommodate even bigger pieces. https://photos.app.goo.gl/kM32g7hh1ebQciiy9
  5. What about using playing cards? They're already plastic coated.
  6. I've never used Mr. Surfacer. Is it the same thing as Tamiya Fine Primer? I heard that somewhere, but I'm skeptical.
  7. That looks sweet! I just finished this kit, and it's crazy how the rear wings go together. First, it's crazy that they're built into the intakes, and the instructions aren't great at showing that. Second, once you get everything figured out, it's MIND-BOGGLING that it all goes together so straight and level. Yours looks great!
  8. I don't agree with the "full gun" and "full engines" for an A-10, especially from Tamiya. They could follow the example of their 1/48 F-14. It's a great kit, but it doesn't have a lot of bells and whistles, like moveable flaps, full engines, or opening panels. You can't even swing the wings without replacing parts on the fuselage. I'd rather see a simpler, more accurate, and cheaper kit without the added complexity and cost of engines and interior avionics parts. You'd want to include a variety of weaponry for an A-10, too. So that could jack up the price and the parts count. It's more importa
  9. They could shrink it a little, and move the "US NAVY" to the smoother part in front of the intakes. Put the "Blue Angels" script on the spine of the aircraft.
  10. I'll echo what some others said: build something easy(ish) and enjoyable. Don't get something that will require 10 kids of aftermarket sets or a new set of tools. I recommend things like tanks, or the Bandai Star Wars kits. They're snap-together kits, technically, but they're some of the finest kits I've seen. I also wouldn't recommend something that requires you to buy all new paints. If you still have some, great. If not, you can start small with a paint selection.
  11. - A new, modern 1/48 A-10A, A-10A with LASTE, and A-10C. - 1/48 and 1/72 P-8A Poseidon - A new 1/48 V-22 - New 1/48 B-1b. Or at least new, modern insides for the old Revell kit. - Intelligently-stocked 1/48 Weapon sets. I don't need a kit with both modern AIM-9M's and Falcon missiles. Or rocket pods and Phoenix missiles. Give us a "modern fighter" set with AMRAAMS, Sparrows, AIM-9M's, and AIM-9X's, and enough of each to load an F-15. Give a set with GBU-38's and GBU-12's and their racks. A set with 2000-lb JDAMs, and so on. Make good molds for them, and use them in your
  12. That's a bummer about the Metalizers. I'm going to have to find a new way to do metallics. I worry that they'd do those dozen FS colors in the tiny 1/4oz. bottles, and charge the Model Master price. This is one reason I've switched to Tamiya paints almost exclusively. They're just cheaper. If anything, I want Testors to do certain colors in 1oz or 2oz bottles. I know I go through enough flat black, white, Gunship Gray, and Light Ghost Gray to warrant buying it in bulk.
  13. Are they getting rid of Metalizers, too?
  14. I'd also recommend getting an "all-in-one" kit like Alumilite has. It's got everything you'll need to get started. I'd also get your hands on some Lego bricks to build mold boxes with. You can use other materials to make boxes, but Legos make things REAL easy.
×
×
  • Create New...