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RedHeadKevin

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About RedHeadKevin

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    Full Blown Model Geek
  • Birthday 03/07/1978

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    RedHeadKevin
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    Haverhill, Mass.
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    Modeling, duh.

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  1. That looks sweet! I just finished this kit, and it's crazy how the rear wings go together. First, it's crazy that they're built into the intakes, and the instructions aren't great at showing that. Second, once you get everything figured out, it's MIND-BOGGLING that it all goes together so straight and level. Yours looks great!
  2. I don't agree with the "full gun" and "full engines" for an A-10, especially from Tamiya. They could follow the example of their 1/48 F-14. It's a great kit, but it doesn't have a lot of bells and whistles, like moveable flaps, full engines, or opening panels. You can't even swing the wings without replacing parts on the fuselage. I'd rather see a simpler, more accurate, and cheaper kit without the added complexity and cost of engines and interior avionics parts. You'd want to include a variety of weaponry for an A-10, too. So that could jack up the price and the parts count. It's more importa
  3. They could shrink it a little, and move the "US NAVY" to the smoother part in front of the intakes. Put the "Blue Angels" script on the spine of the aircraft.
  4. I'll echo what some others said: build something easy(ish) and enjoyable. Don't get something that will require 10 kids of aftermarket sets or a new set of tools. I recommend things like tanks, or the Bandai Star Wars kits. They're snap-together kits, technically, but they're some of the finest kits I've seen. I also wouldn't recommend something that requires you to buy all new paints. If you still have some, great. If not, you can start small with a paint selection.
  5. - A new, modern 1/48 A-10A, A-10A with LASTE, and A-10C. - 1/48 and 1/72 P-8A Poseidon - A new 1/48 V-22 - New 1/48 B-1b. Or at least new, modern insides for the old Revell kit. - Intelligently-stocked 1/48 Weapon sets. I don't need a kit with both modern AIM-9M's and Falcon missiles. Or rocket pods and Phoenix missiles. Give us a "modern fighter" set with AMRAAMS, Sparrows, AIM-9M's, and AIM-9X's, and enough of each to load an F-15. Give a set with GBU-38's and GBU-12's and their racks. A set with 2000-lb JDAMs, and so on. Make good molds for them, and use them in your
  6. That's a bummer about the Metalizers. I'm going to have to find a new way to do metallics. I worry that they'd do those dozen FS colors in the tiny 1/4oz. bottles, and charge the Model Master price. This is one reason I've switched to Tamiya paints almost exclusively. They're just cheaper. If anything, I want Testors to do certain colors in 1oz or 2oz bottles. I know I go through enough flat black, white, Gunship Gray, and Light Ghost Gray to warrant buying it in bulk.
  7. Are they getting rid of Metalizers, too?
  8. I'd also recommend getting an "all-in-one" kit like Alumilite has. It's got everything you'll need to get started. I'd also get your hands on some Lego bricks to build mold boxes with. You can use other materials to make boxes, but Legos make things REAL easy.
  9. I've had great luck storing my workbench stuff in a few Sterilite plastic drawer sets. They often show up at flea markets or yard sales, or they're not expensive to just buy for full price in stores.
  10. You might also keep your eyes open for the Encore T-37. It's the Monogram plastic, but with resin parts for the wheels, cockpit, bombs, and some other details.
  11. I love Schrodinger's Super Glue. Maybe it dries instantly, maybe it never does. Also, paint bottles somehow get heavier right before they're empty. You pick them up and it feels about half full, but you open it and NOPE! Go back to the store!
  12. It reminds me more of the A-7 Corsair II, with that big underslung intake in front like that.
  13. As modelers, we use cotton swabs quite a bit. But if I'm using them to soak up excess wash, or absorb water from a decal, they leave nearly microscopic cotton fibers behind, and they look terrible. So I'm trying to find a good alternative/replacement for really, these two purposes. Is there an absorbent "cotton swab" that will absorb water, but not leave fibers? Sort of a "lint-free" cotton swab? But here's the catch: It should be more durable than just foam. Or should i just start using the corner of a paper towel?
  14. I said this in another thread, but it bears repeating: be careful wishing for a Tamiya A-10C, as they might follow the Hasegawa route and release their old Hawg kit with new decals.
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