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Henryj

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About Henryj

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    Canopy Polisher

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  1. Try this site. I purchased their 25 piece set as well as their 5 piece #87 set. Drill City
  2. Try the link again. Micro-Surface
  3. I can't strees enough how great these pads are. I went on line to the manufacturer and purchased larger pads and sheets. They sell direct and you can purchase any size and grit.Micro-Surface
  4. The problem with that, Kevin, is that tupperware containers are very flimsy and would not withstand the pressure of the vacuum process. It would crush itself. As Supersonic mentioned, you would need at least 29 Hg to successfully de-air, requiring a stronger vacuum system than the hand held one you mentioned and a strong solid wall chamber. I personally use a pressure pot to make my RTV and Resin castings. The pressure pots can be obtained at places like Harbour Freight, Home Depot or any other paint supply store for around $50 USD. You will then need a 3HP compressor able to deliver at a
  5. Steve, It was great seeing you again at the Nats. The 101 looks great. the paint scheme looks very natural and three dimensional. I started working on mine, since we last talked at the Nats. Got a long ways to go. Keep up the great work and hope to see your Diorama soon. Henry
  6. Sorry to inform you Red, but it was not video taped or recorded in any format that I'm aware of. I was standing up in front with the rest of the twenty odd people who gathered around to get a close look. Would have been nice if there was a video system on the presenter which could have then been displayed on a monitor or projector, for all to see and enjoy. This of course is of no fault to Cyrus. He did a great job of demonstrating his techniques and sharing his experience with all those present. Henry
  7. Thanks for the kind words, guys. Once I'm done with this, I'll be starting the Monogram Mi-24D using Cobra Combany's update set. I'll re-scribe the whole thing and try to detail were I can.
  8. Well, after a brief hiatis, I've managed to get back to work on this project. As with most of my stuff, I'm not focused on accuracy, rather I concentrate on building up my skills. So for all those who gasp in horror at the inappropriate markings and equipment shown, I apologize. It's almost completed, save for a few more fittings like the canopy handles, canopy door acuators, and a few more wiring inside the canopy ceiling. I'm still debating whether to add the weapons' markings on this or not.
  9. Terryt has a good idea that I've played with in the past with images and text. I use Adobe Illustrator for my work, but I suppose other drawing programs that are vector base should work as well. I've put together a quick "How to" to illustrate how I do it. Hope this helps. First off, I scan a copy of a decal sheet with Navy fonts and numbers and save it to a working folder. I open illustrator and the scanned image. I lock the scanned image(fig.1) and make a new layer on top(Fig.2) I then enlarge the area I want to work on. Make sure your scanned image is at a high resolution. Us
  10. Very nicely done, Sir. Always a pleasure watching your work and scratchbuilding techniques. Please keep up the great work and looking forward to your next installment and pictures. Henry
  11. Juanjo, Your model is looking great. I've been following this thread for sometime and have enjoyed your in progress pictures. Your photography skills are equally impressive. What camera are you using? I'm assuming it's a digital camera. If so, how man Megs? Keep us posted. Henry
  12. Divide the scale you have (72) by the scale you want (48). 72/48= 1.5 Move your decimal point over two places, and that gives you the percentage you need to enlarge. 1.5=150% This also applies if you want to reduce the scale. For instance, 1/32 scale divided by 1/48 scale (32/48)= .66 Move the decimal two places, .66=66% In simple terms, the scale you have is divided by the scale you want. Hope this helps.
  13. Well Sarge, It seems people got off track with what this thread was all about. Instead you got alot of Do or Don't Do debates. MoFo got it right when he said start off with a practice kit. I couldn't explain the process better myself. He's right on the money. It will take some time getting use to this new procedure, before you're happy with the results. Don't let a few trys discourage you. With practice you'll be able to re-scribe any kit out there, regardless of its complexities. Sure, it's labor intensive and tedious at times. But, the results are worth the effort. I've included
  14. Hey Pete, How about some photos of your N model? I plan on doing the N, in 1/35 to compliment my Whiskey that I'm currently working on and would like to get an idea what the update set looks like all put together. Thanks, Henry
  15. By any chance, did you thin the paint with laquer? Also, several light coats is recommended instead of just one heavy pass. Try striping or sanding the offended area and re-coat it with black paint. Then try light coats again. I use Alclad regularly and have never had any problems. I spray it out the bottle without thinning. HTH Henry
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