zeus60

I have never heard of a Floquil acrylic paint that was not Polly Scale. Is there a number on the bottle?

I've used the yellow stuff, which I think is called Handy Tak. I've also used a product from Elmer's which is gray. I got the Elmer's stuff at Target. Had good results with both. I also saw something similar in Lowes, in the adhesive section with the epoxies, but I can't remember what brand it was.

I think what he is asking is, "Can I mix Future with Polly Scale clear flat?" I think I did try this, and it worked. I also believe (although I can't point to any links) that you can use Future to thin Polly Scale paints in general.

I just picked up a 2 liter bottle of Windex, and it specifically says "with ammonia D". I've been using it to both thin and clean up after Polly Scale and never had a problem with adhesion.

This page on j-aircraft.com has some equivalents for cockpit colors for Japanese planes from various manufacturers.

Windex is an ammonia-based window cleaner. I haven't tried this, but I can't imagine the Windex affecting enamel paint.

According to this page, you can use airbrush medium to thin craft paint. (Look towards the bottom of the page.) It would help adhesion. I've had good luck thinning Polly Scale and Model Master Acryl with the medium too.

I only use craft paints for cockpit details, but this info is certainly good to know. Thanks for spending the time on this.

I took a look at your DeWoitine in the gallery, and it looks beautiful. Thanks for the info. I do have one question. I bought some turpenoid that came in a clear bottle, and it has a color similar to Pine-Sol or apple cider. The turpenoid that comes in a can is clear, I believe. Which one did you use? Stacey

If those are federal standard color numbers, then the first digit indicates whether it is gloss, satin or matte. 1xxxx - gloss 2xxxx - satin 3xxxx - matte The last four digits indicate the actual hue. (I'm not sure 2 means satin, but I know 1 means gloss and 3 means matte.) HTH

Welcome to ARC. You can certainly use a large compressor, such as you might find at a home improvement store, with an airbrush, including your Paasche. However, you will need a regulator, other than the one that came with the unit, in order to get the fine adjustments to pressure needed for airbrushing. (The one that will come with the compressor will not have fine enough adjustment.) Also, you will need a moisture trap, but you will need that regardless of what type of compressor you get. The advantage of a large compressor is that you can use it for other things, such as operating pneum

When used as a primer, what do you use to thin Tamiya acrylics? Tamiya acrylic thinner, Tamiya lacquer thinner, or something else?

Swanny's page on the Complete Future lists ratios. Link to Complete Future He shows 1 part flat base to 3 parts Future = very flat 1 part flat base to 10 parts Future = flat 1 part flat base to 15 parts Future = satin You don't need very much. HTH

Here is a link to a zip file containing scans of the instructions and the color profiles that came with the kit (although not every kit has the decals necessary to do all three options). Link to instructions

Thanks. I have used Liquitex Airbrush Medium as a thinner for Polly Scale with good results. Now I've got something else to try!

Slightly off topic, but I have a question about the Liquitex Flow Aid. The bottle says to dilute the contents with water before using. Do you dilute the Flow Aid before adding, or do you just add the fifteen drops directly from the bottle? Thanks.

I said, "less harmful". I did not mean to imply they were safe. Sorry for the confusion.

In a previous acrylic-vs-enamel thread, someone said that enamel fumes were actually less harmful, since the vapors are organic and your body can handle them better, whereas acrylic fumes are like putting plastic in your lungs. That being said, I had two issues with enamels. First, the fumes. I spray, even with good ventilation, and still smell the thinner the next day. Second, the fact that the fumes are flammable. I spray less than twenty feet from my furnace, and I do have some concern about flammable fumes getting near the flames. I have also discovered that hand brushes are easier t

Although I use mostly acrylics now, I have not experienced the long drying times with enamels that others have. Perhaps it is because I live in a warm, arid climate (Southern California, which is really a desert). When I spray enamels, they dry almost as quickly as acrylics.

I think it may still be on the model. :o But a little dishwashing liquid or hand soap would probably take it right off.

I tried Play Doh. It masked well, and is very cheap, but it did leave a residue.

I've definitely got them, but I won't be able to scan them until Saturday. I'll email them to you.

Thanks, Forseti42. I'll probably just spray enamel.

This may be a dumb question, but can you spray acrylic paint (in this case, Polly Scale) directly on resin, without using a primer? I will scrub the resin (True Details P-47D 1/48 wheels) clean first, but I wasn't sure if the acrylic would adhere. I can use enamel paint if I have to, but would prefer to use the acrylic. TIA Stacey

Thanks for all the replies. I had heard the tip about using shampoo and/or conditioner on the brushes. They are made of hair, after all.