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About wdw

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    Rivet Counter
  • Birthday 09/14/1949

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    Vancouver, Canada
  • Interests
    I build only 1/72nd scale - I have no room for anything bigger . . . .
  1. ARC Cancer support shirts

    Oh . . . I just saw the posting above saying that this thread is obsolete. Sorry to have replied . . .
  2. ARC Cancer support shirts

    I might well have bought something but I couldn't find the product. I tried clicking around the link site for a while but gave up. Also, I don't want to register for what would be a one-off purchase and then be plagued by ongoing marketing emails. If there was a simpler way to place an order, maybe more folks would do so.
  3. punching decals

    I suggest the UMM range of punch and die sets at https://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=punch&x=7&y=8. I am very happy with my mini-set: http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?products_id=1320.
  4. Hasegawa kit decals

    I agree with Pete. Maybe you should test a couple that you don't intend to use from the sheet.
  5. EA-18G video and question

    A quick search on Google shows that MRAD stands for "Milliradian". It all too complicated for me but has to do with range finding measurements.
  6. Our Cdn $ is indeed severely down in terms of the US $, but not so much other world currencies. Check out the mail order companies elsewhere in the world (Hannants, for example) and you may well find savings.
  7. new looking for confirmation

    Sounds like you are well on your way to a happy modelling hobby. The best products and ratios and mixes and air pressure and types of hardware, etc. etc. are the ones that work for you. All modellers have their favorites, so find what works for you and you will have many rewarding hours of modeling. If you pay too much attention to what works for everyone else, it will drive you crazy . . . Having said that, if you run into a problem that stumps you, this is a great place to get some help. Just one thing though, I suggest you apply the decals before putting a wash into your panel lines. You want to panel line and its wash to show consistently across the decal.
  8. This is ARC, not PFWC

    I totally agree!! Some years ago I made the same kind of comment here and got generally shouted down by rabid politicos who went on about free speech! I am fully open to free speech but keep it out of my favorite modeling forum. That is what the lounge is for if someone feels the need to express themselves. Also, this is an international forum and the politics of any one country is just out of place here.
  9. Adjusting Air Pressure

    While I too agree with the dynamic method in principle, I don't understand why this is important. Adjust the pressure so that your airbrush works properly to suit your style, the viscosity of the medium, the type of airbrush, etc. There are so many other variables at play that knowing the exact pressure you are spraying at is not all that important. I remember attending a demonstration by an airbrush professional and when he was asked what pressure he was spraying at, he said he didn't know and had to check the gauge to answer the question.
  10. Paint Dropper Usage and Cleaning

    I don't want to sound preachy, but using them like that just adds unnecessary plastic into our landfills which we don't need. The glass ones last for ever and are environmentally better for all of us.
  11. Paint Dropper Usage and Cleaning

    What kind of dropper are you referring to? The glass eye-dropper style with the detachable rubber bulb, or the all-plastic one with a blown bulb that you squeeze? If the glass/rubber kind, yes, Windex is your friend. Squirt the Windex down the tube and it will take out virtually everything very quickly. Even then though I find I get a slight build up of residue over time and so I use a Kleenex tissue rolled from one corner into a long pointy cleaner and inserted into the tube by rotation (rinse afterwards to avoid leaving any dust). That cleans out everything. However, if you are referring to the all-plastic type with the blown bulb, you are on your own, I'm afraid. I'd suggest you drop by the chemist/pharmacy and pick up a glass eye-dropper.
  12. "Bummer" indeed. I have had a Paasche VL for over 20 years and have not had either of the problems you have had. I always clean it with Windex and I have no problem with the seal of the nozzle. It would appear that your nozzle is the problem. As the item is new, I'd take it back to the store or contact Paasche directly. You should be able to get a new one. What you have described is not normal for Paasche at all. The brand has been around for years and is used extensively so I am sure this is just an unfortunate incident.
  13. Yes, I'd go with Future too. Of course you will first have to bend the photoetch to shape so it will lie flush in the canopy. Then, a touch of Future with a fine brush and the Future would capillary under the detonation cord. Just leave it to dry thoroughly and the Future would virtually disappear. No mess whatsoever.
  14. How do you cut hypodermic needles?

    I agree with ChippyWho's approach. This is exactly what I do to cut small diameter metal tubing. It works every time, quick and very simple.
  15. Flat Coats...

    When it comes to acrylics, I agree 100% with "Snap Crazy Captain". Tamiya's XF86 Flat Clear is great. I thin it a bit with Tamiya thinner and add a tiny squirt of Windex which keeps my fine tip airbrush from clogging. Great results time after time.