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About HeavyArty

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    Valrico, FL

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  1. I don't think anyone makes them. They don't look too hard to do yourself though. Dimensions: External dimensions: 214 x 37 x 40 cm Internal dimensions: 188 x 33 x 39 cm
  2. What decals are you looking to have made? Just about anything can be done with a graphics program and computer printer decal paper (inkjet or laser, depending on your printer type). The only issue is making white as no normal printer prints in white. You either have to use white decal paper and try to match the surrounding color or use a commercial Alps printer which does print white.
  3. Most of the changes are internal to engines and avionics. The IP is a little different on an L as well with a couple different analog dials/gauges. On the outside, the only major difference is that the A had narrow step sponsons below the pilots' doors. The L had added roll stabilizers for the main landing gear which widened the step sponsons by about 6 inches. UH-60A IP UH-60L IP UH-60A narrow step sponsons. UH-60L wider step sponsons. Notice the additional width outboard of the step.
  4. I have moved on, right after his first post. Like I said above, lets get back to modeling.
  5. No temper at all, I just think you are being ridiculous. So be it. I doubt we will ever agree on this.
  6. Wow, I guess you don't like me. I'm so sad and I am sorry I offended your sensitive nature. Now back to modeling.
  7. Where was I discourteous? I stated it looks good, and it does. I simply pointed out that the cans are wrong (which they are), and showed the correct ones. Coddling modelers and telling them it just looks great even if flawed doesn't advance the hobby either. I would rather be honest and give good advice on how to fix it. To me, that is advancing the hobby and helping others. I am not demanding anyone fix or change anything, just providing accurate info. They can either take it or leave it. No, they will still not be right. The cans are a totally different s
  8. The whole can is different. The Blitz can is two piece with a large seam all the way around and a different shaped reinforcing ribs on the front. The US cans are welded without a seam at all, and the caps are different.
  9. Looks pretty good. Your fuel cans are wrong for US military though. They only used the "Blitz" can in early WWII. We quickly changed to our own design that was used from mid-WWII up until the late '80s - early '90s when they were replaced with plastic cans. Standard US Military fuel can. The whole can would not be red either. If anything, they could have a red top to denote MOGAS (MOtor GAS) as opposed to a yellow top for diesel, but that was not really done until the '70s and '80s when the US military was switching to all diesel-powered equipment
  10. I know you don't care about accuracy, but it is not an item you would see around aircraft, it just wasn't used for them. Do what you like though, it's your model.
  11. The pump unit looks good, but I don't get why it is there. These are normally mounted in the back of a 5-ton truck with two fuel pods. It is not normally used as a ground unit. Are you going to make the fuel pods too?
  12. I too think it would be compatible. I have no issue mixing 1/35 armor, figures, and accessories with 1/32 helos. Other opinions differ.
  13. The max outer width is just smaller by a few (3-4) inches than the inner width of a 5-ton bed, so about 84 inches wide. These TPUs (Tank and Pump Unit) were designed to be placed at the rear of a 5-ton with two 600-gallon tanks in front of it. Dimensions of M809 series 5-ton (all the beds are the same on earlier and later versions). Inner bed dimensions, 88 inches wide. https://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/10-67-1/CHAP24.HTML PSM Makes a set in 1/35.
  14. Looking pretty good. One issue though. The boxes you have added to the trailer are not used with a generator trailer. They are where the spigots are on the water trailer.
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