CBREEZE Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 Help!! Can anyone give me an idea what went wrong? Just getting back into modeling. I am working on a Tamiya Corsair. I was working on the prop and here is the problem. Washed the prop with soap and water and let dry. Shot the prop with Poly S flat black. Let it sit for a week. Masked it off to shoot the yellow tips. When I pulled the masking tape off, some of the black paint pulled off. This was not supposed to happen. BTW I used low tack, blue painters masking tape. Can anyone give me any idea why this happened? I was pretty happy with acrylic paints until this. Thanks in advance. Chuck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ricardo Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 I don't know what the hell happened there but I suggest you use post it notes for masking. HTH Ricardo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Mullen Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 Chuck Did you rinse in normal water after the soapy wash? Ive found in the past if you dont rinse with water, you get traces of the soap left on the surfaces which seems to be as bad as the release agent. Another thing I tend to do with the surface Im spraying Acrylics onto is give it a light sanding with a fine grade wet&dry/Micromesh. This gives the surface some "tooth" for the paints to adhere to. HTH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul T Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 Or ,you could just use some good old brain bustin ,*** kickin solvent based enamel paint ,thinned down with some good old "may cause cancer in laboratory rats in the state of California" lacquer thinner.Nothin` spells modelin` like petroleum distilates,so hop aboard the turpentine train and kiss your Poly-*** troubles goodbye ! HTH Paul T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Old72s Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 Not sure what happened. I use PollyScale and PollyS paints all the time and I've never had paint lifting. I don't wash the plastic parts either, FWIW. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
madmike Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 Not sure what happened. I use PollyScale and PollyS paints all the time and I've never had paint lifting. I don't wash the plastic parts either, FWIW. :) Secret is the Prime you model before painting with a lacquer or enamel primer. This will give a good base for subsequent coats of paint as the more "hotter" primer etches the plastic reducing the chance of paint lift My personal choice is Tamiya primer or Citadel Skull White. HTH MikeJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Old72s Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 I prime with PollyS primer gray. It's a railroad color which has a different formula than PollyScale aircraft colors (or at least a different smell ). Takes a touch longer to dry and seems to bond a touch better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CBREEZE Posted January 12, 2004 Author Share Posted January 12, 2004 Thanks to all who responded. I was wondering if I could possibly have the same problem with Testors acrylics? To all you acrylic guys, do you prime first regardless of the brand? I want to get a handle on this process before I shoot the fuse and wings. I would really like to try and stick with the water base. I have used enamels in the past and never had a problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CBREEZE Posted January 12, 2004 Author Share Posted January 12, 2004 Thanks to all who responded. I was wondering if I could possibly have the same problem with Testors acrylics? To all you acrylic guys, do you prime first regardless of the brand? I want to get a handle on this process before I shoot the fuse and wings. I would really like to try and stick with the water base. I have used enamels in the past and never had a problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MickeyThickey Posted January 12, 2004 Share Posted January 12, 2004 Or ,you could just use some good old brain bustin ,*** kickin solvent based enamel paint ,thinned down with some good old "may cause cancer in laboratory rats in the state of California" lacquer thinner.Nothin` spells modelin` like petroleum distilates,so hop aboard the turpentine train and kiss your Poly-*** troubles goodbye ! :D HTH Paul T Amen to that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Filak Posted January 12, 2004 Share Posted January 12, 2004 Amen to that. Ain't that the truth. :D Chuck, this is the age-old problem with acrylics - you're trading off the smell and potential health risks of enamels for a genuine adhesion problem. MM Acryls were infamous for this when they first appeared, and while I believe they've tweaked the formula a bit, they still don't adhere nearly as well as enamels. The health risks associated with enamels are not exclusive to enamels, BTW. While acrylics may not smell as bad, you still don't want to breathe that stuff in - polymerized micro-droplets of paint inside the lungs can cause just as many problems in the long run.. The best option is to buy (or build your own) paint booth with a fan to eject the fumes outside. Actually, it's pretty cheap to build one - you just need a sheet or two of plywood, a sparkless fan, and a section of dryer hose to run the fumes outside. Maybe a small shop light on the inside of the booth if you want to get real fancy. I'm in the process of building one as we speak, and there's not a whole lot to it. If you're not interested in switching to enamels, my suggestion is that you invest in a good quality primer, such as Krylon. Primer will really improve the adhesion of acrylics, as well as filling in surface imperfections. It may not completely solve the problem, but it'll definitely help. There is also a tape made by 3M that has the same adhesive as Post-It notes. It's very low tack, and won't lift the paint off the surface. Hope this helps - good luck! ;) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aggie96 Posted January 12, 2004 Share Posted January 12, 2004 I've started priming with MM enamel primer in the can before painting with MM Acryl paints. Seems to help it stay down when masking. I also stick the tape to the table a few times and rub it with my fingers to further decrease the tackiness. And pull the tape off sloooooowly... Works for me! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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