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1/32 Trumpeter SBD-5 Dauntless


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The exhaust weathering and ignition wires look very realistic . . . . just added lead fly fishing wire to my shopping list :jaw-dropping:

The guys at the local fishing store gave me strange looks when I asked for one bobbin of each thickness of lead wire. I guess I did not look like a fly fisherman! The stuff is much easier to work with than brass or copper line.

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  • 2 months later...

Sorry I have not updated in a while - summer takes up most of my time. I have been putting in some time with the model though. Some things to report:

1) Do not follow the directions at the stage where you put the wings on the fuselage - there are some very strange 'steps' on the top wings where they attach to the fuselage. If you glue the wings together prior to dealing with these, then you will have rediculous gaps. I dryfitted the wings and worked on the steps for a long time. I was still not 100% satisfied with the fit but it ended up being much better. The gaps were not large enough for some styrene sheet to be put in but they did need some filler.

2) The engine cover... this would not fit correctly at first and sanding did not help too much. That required filler.

3) The dive brakes are very well done but the perforations have a lot of flash in them. I have spent an evening with a round file to fix them. The end result looks much better... but wow, there are a ton of holes to clean up!

4) the Big bomb is nicely done. The smaller bombs??? Terrible. I would like to find resin replacements for them. Anyone know who makes small resin bombs? I think these are 100 pounders

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Its been a while since I updated! To sum up - the pit is in the fuselage. The fuse went together relatively simply. The only 'problem area' was at the front of the fuselage. There are a number of clear parts that trumpeter included. I suppose these were designed to allow the modeler to have a 'see through' model. But the clear plastic is not formed perfectly so some work will be required for a seamless join.

Anyhoo - a lot of primer, sanding, filler and more primer to get it all right.

I then sanded the primer so that I got a nice finish.

I preshaded the underside (white) - I wanted just a subtle look... what do you think?:

100_2588.jpg

I am going to be painting on the markings so wish me luck!

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  • 4 years later...

Ive resurrected this build in the Shelf Queens GB so I thought I would update this thread as well.

The first round of paint results

DSC_0029_zps3a0e3058.jpg

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The problem was with the type of airbrush I was using and the need to get good coverage. Mine is really designed for detail and close in work. My "bigger" airbrush is missing its nozzle and I have ordered a replacement. After the paint dried I rubbed it down with a cloth. This smooths everything out but I obviously need to go over a couple sections with another coat. There were a couple "oopses" as well. So I will hit it with another marathon paint session on friday night.

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CorsairMan,

You original start of this thread predates my joining ARC, so I just pulled up my chair, grabbed a hot cup of coffee, and read through your entire build blog to date.

The cockpit is very nicely done. I really like your method of drilling out the instruments on the IP then painting the inside a light gray. Trying to paint bezels in 1/48 scale usually doesn't end up with the results I was looking for. Your method should work out very well. I completely agree with our assessment of Model Master Acrylic paints. I love their enamels, but their acrylics just don't adhere well even to their own primer, which doesn't really bite into plastic either. Tamiya and Mr. Surfacer primers just puts it to shame.

Simply an outstanding effort on the engine. The lead ignition wiring really looks quite nice. I really like the overall effect you achieved on the exhausts. Will be trying it as I've yet to come close to what a exhaust header should look like.

I'm also a prop guy, but I've slowly come around to enjoying jets modeling as well. I just alternate builds. One thing I've found on ARC is that props do let a lot less views then jet builds. I guess it's just the sign of the times.

Joel

Edited by Joel_W
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Why shelf it? Well, I really screwed up the front cowl and had to order a replacement. Then the basement reno took place. Then there was the peel of paint in the cockpit...

And there were all these other models I was interested in....

So yeah, its getting done now.

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Unfortunately I've lost the middle dive break actuator. I was able to make a reasonable representation out of rod and strip styrene. It needs some adjustment and trimming but once it has a coat of primer and white paint, it should do the trick

IMG_20150118_221353_zpsjutnhtbb.jpg

The crappy masks are a vinyl like material and they have distorted. There is no way the circle around the star will be close to a circle. So I'll be using the kit decals to make new masks out of kibuki tape. Time consuming but these things need to be precise or they will really take away from the final product!

I did finish the paint and touchups...that was satisfying except I peeled off more MM acryl from the cockpit. In swear, I'm chucking this paint as far as I can throw it after I'm done this plane!

IMG_20150118_221330_zps5zwyjulp.jpg

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I finished the markings and I'm very happy with my results! Of course the vinyl outline masks distorted over time so I had to cut new ones from tamiya tape. So much for that saving time. The paint used was Vallejo insignia blue and I think it worked perfectly!

I also painted the walkways and I'm likely going to paint a few more things so as to avoid these questionable trumpy decals. The issue I have is that I don't trust the trump decal guide and I find have good pictures to go by.

IMG_20150124_083034_zpsmsfttxkk.jpg

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CorsairMan,

Your custom masks worked perfectly. The stars and bars look dead on. Same for the numbers. Are they also masked and painted, or decals?

I do have one question, since you've opted to leave the windscreen off till the end of the build, as well as one greenhouse section that the rest of the sections slide over and under, have you test fitted them, so that there are no real surprises down the road ?

Joel

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The numbers are painted and masked and they were a little tricky to get off without scratching any paint.

The glass was barely test fitted and any fit issues will be taken care of with a round of careful sanding. I'm leaving the back completely open and I know there will be some issues with that but I'll tackle that when I have to.

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The numbers are painted and masked and they were a little tricky to get off without scratching any paint.

The glass was barely test fitted and any fit issues will be taken care of with a round of careful sanding. I'm leaving the back completely open and I know there will be some issues with that but I'll tackle that when I have to.

If you made those number masks, you did a truly outstanding job in their fabrication.

Joel

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  • 4 weeks later...

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