RKic Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 I'm working on a Monogram F-101 voodoo in 1/48, and this being my first large scale jet since my childhood days (back when the burners were painted Testors silver), I'm not really sure how to get at the cans. Any advice would be appreciated. Maybe we can pin this topic for others? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VFA-103guy Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 You've got a couple of options here. 1. You could use Model Master Burnt Metal which is from their Metalizer line. Once a few coats of Future are brushed on to it, it looks the part. I use for my F-14B/D petals religiously. 2. ALCLAD makes a nice series of metal paints, and if memory serves correctly, they require a gloss black under coat. I haven't used ALCLAD yet, but I'm giving it a try on the Trumpy F-100D I'm building. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark M. Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 The Mono 48th F101B: When I joined my left/right sides, it had very bad join lines. I had to clean these up. My first tip would be to rescribe the lines circling the cans. Nothing fancy, just use your exacto and recarve them where you obliterated them at the joints. Also, you can almost see nothing on the inside. Don't sweat any detailing on the inside. I would say the best thing on these is to work with your coloring. They're titanium and were unpainted in real life. Get the right color and/or shading that helps the eye of the viewer see how much heat and stress these parts underwent. I went with more of a burnt aluminum color, which has a slight purplish tint to it (at least in the brand I had). If I had a fine-tipped airbrush I'd would have tried some shade variations but I did what I could. For other burner cans, it's more of a chore. F-16s, F14s, F18s, for example are more open to a tips/techniques thread than the old F-101B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
viking73 Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 The Mono 48th F101B:When I joined my left/right sides, it had very bad join lines. I had to clean these up. My first tip would be to rescribe the lines circling the cans. Nothing fancy, just use your exacto and recarve them where you obliterated them at the joints That's why I haven't built mine yet. I'm waiting on the Two Mikes resin burner cans that are supposed to be out in September! -Derek Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jester292 Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 RKic, In the ARC Gallery, there was a great article about painting natural metal exhausts (I think it was on a Su-27), but I can't remember whose it was, and I can't seem to find the specific article on the Su-27/33/35/etc pages. Maybe its worth browsing. I know its not a Voodoo, but he had fantastic results with blues, oranges, and reds on top of his metal paint. Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RKic Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 RKic,In the ARC Gallery, there was a great article about painting natural metal exhausts (I think it was on a Su-27), but I can't remember whose it was, and I can't seem to find the specific article on the Su-27/33/35/etc pages. Maybe its worth browsing. I know its not a Voodoo, but he had fantastic results with blues, oranges, and reds on top of his metal paint. Aaron Thats the style I would like to emulate. I know the article you're talking about, but I don't remember where I saw it either. I thought it was on HS though. It was some time ago Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dkobayashi Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 I use different shades of model master metal paints, a coat of future and then tamiya clear red, orange, and blue to emulate the burnt finish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Murph Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Check out this thread. Regards, Murph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jester292 Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 (edited) Thanks for the link, Murph. Led me right to the page I was thinking of, here. Take a look, RKic. This is the article I mentioned above. Aaron Edited August 3, 2010 by jester292 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RKic Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 thanks guys Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nuno Andresen Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 I don't know if these shots can be helpful to you. I made these images some time ago, in a step by step f-16AM and especially to show that even with the kit plastic parts you can achieve fine results. If someone would ask me if there is some kind of "secret", I would reply: Only one – pin a large size photo of the real turbine near your airbrush. The rest is easy Colors are Alclad Jet Exhaust, Burnt Metal and Dark Aluminium applied until I can match the photo in front of me. In these shots the ceramic white interior of the turbine and the blue ring don't appear yet. If you need more, just say :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frequent_flyer Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 Need (definitely) more Regards frequent_flyer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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