Airbrush set up recommendations

[firefighterpilot1]

I apologize if threads like this are numerous but I couldn't find anything I could use in searching.

I finally have some money I can devote to this hobby and now I'm looking for a good airbrush set up. I'm looking for recommendations from actual airbrush to hose and compressor, etc. Everything I will need to get airbrushing!

Now, though I have some money to throw at this I'm still on a budget. I was thinking that I would like to spend $200-$300 at most on a set up, but obviously the best quality for as cheap as possible. Is that doable? I'd want a gravity fed airbrush. I don't think I would need a fancy air compressor, just something reliable. Thanks for your help, guys!

[Bob Beary]

I apologize if threads like this are numerous but I couldn't find anything I could use in searching.

I finally have some money I can devote to this hobby and now I'm looking for a good airbrush set up. I'm looking for recommendations from actual airbrush to hose and compressor, etc. Everything I will need to get airbrushing!

Now, though I have some money to throw at this I'm still on a budget. I was thinking that I would like to spend $200-$300 at most on a set up, but obviously the best quality for as cheap as possible. Is that doable? I'd want a gravity fed airbrush. I don't think I would need a fancy air compressor, just something reliable. Thanks for your help, guys!

Go to the search function and type in "airbrushes" (without quotes). There are 21 pages of info, some with titles for exactly what you are looking for.

HTH

Bob

[Av8fan]

Hi,

It might help to know which scale your into.

When it comes to the compressor, is noise a problem?

If noise is not a factor, You can get a CH compressor with tank reasonably, however, they can be noisy. If you fill the tank, then you should be able to spray at night when folks are home.

[Netz]

I'm surprised you couldn't find any airbrush info here.....

There was a discussion on compressors, air lines, and brushes are always a hot topic.

Check out Badgers Garage Sale.

I have and used the Badger 100 side feed for over 20 years, I recommend the 100 series as replacement parts are cheap, and you coud have on hand 2 separate heads, Med and Fine if you feel you might need something finer that the medium head will allow, Heads are about $12.00 for a complete head.

In the Garage Sale they have the 100 side feed for $30, thats a good deal for a cheap start. Some may not like the side feed, if not I recommend the top/Gravity feed.

What kind of space do you have for a compressor??? can you support a full size compressor?? I always recommend them as it's a good investment and can be used for many other things than just airbrushing, I fit all my airbrush hoses with regular air chuck fittings,the compressor stays outside in the service porch, I run air hose to my work area and connect that to my regulator, simple set up.

Curt

[Kei Lau]

I was thinking that I would like to spend $200-$300 at most on a set up, but obviously the best quality for as cheap as possible. Is that doable? I'd want a gravity fed airbrush. I don't think I would need a fancy air compressor, just something reliable. Thanks for your help, guys!

Yes, it is very important to get a reliable compressor. It should run quietly and coolly.

If you are in modeling for the long run, I recommend that you put more money in a reliable compressor and get a starter airbrush. It will allow you to stay in budget. You can upgrade the airbrush when you have more fund.

The compressor brand that has good durability record are Iwata and Sparmax. If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby, go take a look at the Sparmax compressors that they stock.

Search this forum on compressor and airbrush for opinions.

[balls47]

If you want a gravity feed airbrush, you might consider a Paasche Talon. If you want a good starter airbrush, consider a single action Paasche H. There are professional builders that use the Paasche H. As far as the compressor, you might consider one with a tank so that you can use it for other things besides airbrushing. Just my .02 cents worth. Good Luck.

[huntermountain]

Putting in an airline is not that hard, so if you can put your compressor somewhere else, noise could be less of a problem, and you could get a good compressor with a big airtank for a lot less then a dedicated airbrush compressor. That would give you more money to spend on the airbrush itself, and you can you that compressor for other stuff as well.

[Kei Lau]

Putting in an airline is not that hard, so if you can put your compressor somewhere else, noise could be less of a problem, and you could get a good compressor with a big airtank for a lot less then a dedicated airbrush compressor. That would give you more money to spend on the airbrush itself, and you can you that compressor for other stuff as well.

I live in a good size house and am a empty nester. Finding a space for the compressor that would be away from ALL living area is difficult, to say the least. Getting airline through doors etc. is even more challenging. Getting approval from the lady of the house who has final say on these matters is just impossible.

It is true that you can get a tools compressor that has the same power (1/3-HP, 0.5 CFM airflow etc.) as a good airbrush compressor at 1/3 of the cost. But those cheap CH compressors cannot even drive a small gauge nail gun well. The best they can do is inflating bicycle tires or airbed. Is it worth putting up with 20 dB higher noise? My answer is no!

Edited January 27, 2011 by Kei Lau

[lyonkubb]

Some other Ideas for geting into a quality airbrush for less money-

Depending on where you live, look for on-line coupons for your local craft stores. Hobby Lobby has a 40% off any one item coupon usually every other week or every third week. That will get you a $200 airbrush for 120 bones. I have seen Iwata and Badger there. Roberts also carries an extensive line of Badger and parts. Again look for the 40% off Coupon, on tuesdays you can use two coupons in one transaction.

I have run across airbrushes in Pawn Shops (Best buy was a Badger 100 and a Vega siphon feed together for $15) and Swap Meets.

BTW- for some inexpensive airbrush accessories, Harbor Frieght has a decent airbrush stand for $10 and I like thier in-line dessicant water/oil filters, also $10. Picked up a digital pressure regulator with a coupon for less than $10. I would shy away from thier airbrushes though.

[Kei Lau]

Depending on where you live, look for on-line coupons for your local craft stores. Hobby Lobby has a 40% off any one item coupon usually every other week or every third week. That will get you a $200 airbrush for 120 bones. I have seen Iwata and Badger there.

Hobby Lobby stocks Iwata and Paasche airbrushes and parts. I have not seen Badger item at their store.

Hobby Lobby also has an Iwata knock-off called the "Neo for Iwata". I got the dual action, gravity feed version for $38 plus tax. It is a very well designed AB and a good choice for someone in a tight budget.

[robtmelvin]

I've got an Iwata HP-CS and a Badger 150. The Badger came with the medium needle and tip and I ordered the fine and large needles and tips. Its a great little air brush and does about all I need it to do, using the Iwata only for very fine detail work. The Badger is a bottom feed, so you need a bit more air pressure to run it, but it also holds a lot more paint if you need it to. Very convenient for priming.

An alternative for an air supply you might look into is an air tank. You can get one of the commercial size air bottles and put it in your modeling area. All you need is a hose, a regulator and a moisture trap. If noise is an issue, this is totally silent. A commercial size tank will last you between six months and a year, depending on how much you use it. If there is a commercial gases business near you, you might want to check this option out.

Bob

[McCoy]

Why not put the money on a really good n' quiet compressor n' then get a cheap China copy airbrush to break in your teeth on. It's better to damage a cheap one than an expensive one. The compressor on the other hand is somethin' you'll get stuck with...

[Netz]

I'm starting to like the idea of an air tank, beings how I have a welding supply store just a block away.

The biggest investment is the bottle it'self, and all you really need is a core, as you'll exchange the actual bottle when you need the refill(and your 1st charge).

The regulator setups can be had for about $20 on up depending on your budget.

I'd look for an Airbrush in the $120.00 range, and look for the deals on those $200.00 brushes, I do recommend jumping into a good brush, no baby steps.

I know theres better brushes on the market but I do like the Badger 100 series, they are good and parts are cheap,something you need to think about once you bend a needle or fracture a tip beyond repair. I can buy a complete Badger head assembly for $12, I had to replace a Iwata .35 tip that ran $22, just the tip...

Curt

[Kei Lau]

I'd look for an Airbrush in the $120.00 range, and look for the deals on those $200.00 brushes, I do recommend jumping into a good brush, no baby steps.

I know theres better brushes on the market but I do like the Badger 100 series, they are good and parts are cheap,something you need to think about once you bend a needle or fracture a tip beyond repair. I can buy a complete Badger head assembly for $12, I had to replace a Iwata .35 tip that ran $22, just the tip...

Curt

Unfortunately, you cannot find Hobby Lobby in SoCA.

I can get a set of needle, nozzle and needle cap for the 0.35 mm Iwata Eclipse for $24.50. It drops to $17 for the 0.5 mm.

Yes, it is still more than the Badger head assembly. You need to factor in how often you need replacement and will find the Iwata to be a better deal.

The Iwata has a long taper on the Eclipse needle (HP-CS has the same linear flow angle as the Renegade Velocity) compared to the Badger 100 needle. It allows for more gentle linear stroke of the trigger which I like. Badger likes to use larger nozzle and double cone needle. I find that the Iwata has a lot less overspray when painting finer lines. BTW, I have only the Badger Patriot, not an 100.

It's just my observation and opinion based on one Iwata and one Badger airbrush. The choice of airbrush is very personal. I do recommend potential buyer to go to a local store, hold one in his/her hand and try the trigger before deciding. See the recent SteveH post.

[Cyrus Tan]

Unfortunately, you cannot find Hobby Lobby in SoCA.

True, but we have Coast Aibrush and they stock a lot of parts at good prices. Their service is great and their knowledge is extensive.

HP-CS has the same linear flow angle as the Renegade Velocity

Are you basing this on Don's review on the Rage? If so, I just wanted to clear things up. The Velocity and the Spirt both have a 0.21 tip with a long single taper. The Rage is a 0.33 gun and as Don pointed out in his review has a small secondary taper. A better comparison would be the Velocity with the Rage tips and the HP-CS. The Velocity is a detail brush and performs more along the lines of the HP-B/BH and the H&S not the HP-CS.

[Kei Lau]

Are you basing this on Don's review on the Rage? If so, I just wanted to clear things up. The Velocity and the Spirt both have a 0.21 tip with a long single taper. The Rage is a 0.33 gun and as Don pointed out in his review has a small secondary taper. A better comparison would be the Velocity with the Rage tips and the HP-CS. The Velocity is a detail brush and performs more along the lines of the HP-B/BH and the H&S not the HP-CS.

Surprise, surprise. The Renegades are some of the few airbrushes that Badger published the actual specifications. The linear flow angles are 6.0° for Velocity and Spirt and 6.5° for Rage. Don Wheeler just confirmed it for the rage. I trust Don's method of measurement.

The 6.0° taper angle of the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS needle was measured by myself. I believe that it is accurate.

The taper angle is one most important factor that impact the fine line capacity of an airbrush. I am looking for comparison between Velocity and the CS because the taper are the same. If the Velocity indeed paints finer than the CS as you said. It would be wonderful to see an analysis of the reason of the difference and the degree of difference.

I am aware that the nozzle hole is 0.21 mm for the velocity and 0.35 mm for the CS. It affects how wide the line can be when fully openned. It has less an impact on the overspray of fine lines.

It will not be fair to compare the Rage to the CS. The Rage has a larger taper angle and a small double cone as Don reported. I remember seeing an early review of the Renegades that discussed how huge the difference was between the 6 and 6.5 degree angle, but can't seem to find the review now.

I measured the taper angle for a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline Solo (0.2 mm nozzle) at 4.9° which is far smaller than that of the Velocity.

Congraduation for convincing Badger to Chrome the Renegade.

Edited January 29, 2011 by Kei Lau

[Air-Craft]

I'm starting to like the idea of an air tank

If this interests you, you should possibly have a serious look at a CO2 set-up!

[Cyrus Tan]

The taper angle is one most important factor that impact the fine line capacity of an airbrush. I am looking for comparison between Velocity and the CS because the taper are the same. If the Velocity indeed paints finer than the CS as you said. It would be wonderful to see an analysis of the reason of the difference and the degree of difference.

I can't give you a scientific anaylsis because airbrushing to me is more art than science. The HP-CS is a nice brush no doubt. I love mine, but I find it easier to use a 0.2 brush for fine work. It sounds to me you're trying to justify that the CS is equal to the Velocity? That's not really a good comparison despite your scientific approach. That would be like comparing your CS to your H&S to be honest. Although it's not impossible to pull fine lines with the CS, it does take greater skill to do it. Other factors that affect performance is trigger control, paint viscocity, air pressure and how close you are to your subject.

Congraduation for convincing Badger to Chrome the Renegade.

Thanks! I appreciate it.

[Kei Lau]

I can't give you a scientific anaylsis because airbrushing to me is more art than science. The HP-CS is a nice brush no doubt. I love mine, but I find it easier to use a 0.2 brush for fine work. It sounds to me you're trying to justify that the CS is equal to the Velocity? That's not really a good comparison despite your scientific approach. That would be like comparing your CS to your H&S to be honest. Although it's not impossible to pull fine lines with the CS, it does take greater skill to do it. Other factors that affect performance is trigger control, paint viscocity, air pressure and how close you are to your subject.

Yes, I have seen some of your works and admire them. I don't have the artistic touch. To me, the physcial attribute of an airbrush is the necessary factor to make a good one and not the sufficient factor. I have a Micron knock-off that has great numbers, long taper and small nozzle diameter. I have seen report of great results, but I don't like its trigger action at all.

I saw how Phil Flory used the H&S Evolution proficiently at his Promodeller site. (I used to be a paid subscriber.) Compared to the Badger Patriot or my first airbrush, the Paasche H, both (CS and H&S) require me to thin the paint more and spray at light, misty, multiple layer coating. I don't do free hand except in playing with my airbrushes. The CS can do everything I want and do it more efficiently, so is the H&S. But I find myself pick up the CS more as my go-to airbrush for modeling.

I found both the CS and the H&S make airbrushing more fun for me. I love their smooth, precision trigger action and the ease of cleaning.

I would be very interested in seeing an one-on-one comparison between the Renegade Velocity Chrome and the H&S Evolution Silverline Solo from a master modeler like you. They are at similar price point.

Yes, I have the weakness of an engineer. So I search for answers that may not even matter to modeling. The Velocity and Iwata CS has same taper, different nozzle diameter. How do they differ in performance? The Velocity and H&S Evolution has same nozzle, but different taper. How do they differ? If you say that the Velocity is a great airbrush, I believe it. (I am not trying to justify saying CS and Velocity are the same since I do not know the Velocity at all.)

[Cyrus Tan]

Yes, I have seen some of your works and admire them. I don't have the artistic touch. To me, the physcial attribute of an airbrush is the necessary factor to make a good one and not the sufficient factor. I have a Micron knock-off that has great numbers, long taper and small nozzle diameter. I have seen report of great results, but I don't like its trigger action at all.

I saw how Phil Flory used the H&S Evolution proficiently at his Promodeller site. (I used to be a paid subscriber.) Compared to the Badger Patriot or my first airbrush, the Paasche H, both (CS and H&S) require me to thin the paint more and spray at light, misty, multiple layer coating. I don't do free hand except in playing with my airbrushes. The CS can do everything I want and do it more efficiently, so is the H&S. But I find myself pick up the CS more as my go-to airbrush for modeling.

I found both the CS and the H&S make airbrushing more fun for me. I love their smooth, precision trigger action and the ease of cleaning.

Here's my advice. Use what every brush suites you needs and use it to its full portential. It seems to me you're relying too much on the tool specs rather than your own skill? The artist is what makes the tool not the other way around. You simply can't buy talent because that's something that requires practice, patience and persistance. Even if you were handed a Micron, do you honestly think it will make you paint like Pro? Me thinks not. Yes... getting a good brush does help, but it won't make you a better artist. I have friend who uses a simple Paasche H and was amazed with what he can do with that brush. I can only imagine what he can do if he had a better brush. My hat goes off to folks like him!

If you like the Iwata HP-CS and the Evolution Silverline then by all means use them. What works well for someone may not be the case for the next guy. This is why airbrushes are personal preferences.

I would be very interested in seeing an one-on-one comparison between the Renegade Velocity Chrome and the H&S Evolution Silverline Solo from a master modeler like you. They are at similar price point.

I think it would be best if someone else compared them for an "unbaised" review.

Yes, I have the weakness of an engineer. So I search for answers that may not even matter to modeling. The Velocity and Iwata CS has same taper, different nozzle diameter. How do they differ in performance? The Velocity and H&S Evolution has same nozzle, but different taper. How do they differ? If you say that the Velocity is a great airbrush, I believe it

The nozzle is a self centering type, but as small as the threaded type from Iwata. The atomization is better. The lines are tighter and much sharper than the other two can produce. The Renegade nozzle design are based off the Sotar as far as I can tell and the Sotar is Badger's "Flagship".

Edited January 30, 2011 by Cyrus Tan

[Kei Lau]

Here's my advice. Use what every brush suites you needs and use it to its full portential. It seems to me you're relying too much on the tool specs rather than your own skill? The artist is what makes the tool not the other way around. You simply can't buy talent because that's something that requires practice, patience and persistance. Even if you were handed a Micron, do you honestly think it will make you paint like Pro? Me thinks not. Yes... getting a good brush does help, but it won't make you a better artist. I have friend who uses a simple Paasche H and was amazed with what he can do with that brush. I can only imagine what he can do if he had a better brush. My hat goes off to folks like him!

Damn it, I thought that I am the only person knowing that I have no artistic talent. I just enjoy the hobby of modeling. Yes, to the average modeler, getting a better airbrush helps a lot. I learnt that first hand when I switch from the Paasche H to the Iwata HP-CS. (I also described clearly the difference among Patriot, Eclipse and Evolution when I used them in my earlier post. Yes, these are personal opinion biased by the individual's skill.)

I just hope that your talented artist friend understands the average Joe and give advise accordingly. I just don't believe that no one needs a better airbrush than the Paasche H because he can do it. I don't believe all airbrush are born equal either.

If you like the Iwata HP-CS and the Evolution Silverline then by all means use them. What works well for someone may not be the case for the next guy. This is why airbrushes are personal preferences.

I honestly believe that the CS and Evolution will work well for any modeler, beginning or master level. But I cannot say the same about the other airbrushes that I have. There are many good AB for modeling that I have not touch. Yes, I am sure about that and I am no master modeler.

The whole purpose of the forum is to allow us voicing different opinions. Take care.