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What filler takes rescribing best


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Evening all!! I'm building a 1/32 F/A-18E and messed up the refueling door install. I'll have to cover the area and rescribe all lines. I've tried scribing most all putties but they always end up chipping. What do you guys do to make this kind of repair. The spot is almost right on top of the nose, just like a big red zit. If i don't get this right it will look really bad. TIA

Don

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Depending on the type of area needing filling, you can either use strips of styrene glued into place or - if it is more a shallow area - try Gunze Mr. Dissolved Putty. Smells terrible but is nothing else then liquid polystyrene.

Cheers

Thorsten

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I'd go with CA Gap Filling Superglue. Sand smooth and scribe as soon as it sets up. As Aigore says, it does get harder than the plastic if you leave it too long. I'd say you should rescribe within 15 minutes or so. I don't know how much rescibing you need to do, so you may need to do it a bit at a time.

Warwick

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It's not too big or deep an area, just in an obvious area that i have to get right. there is some surrounding detail that i don't want to mess up as well. Looks like i'll try the superglue for this. Man, i really dislike using superglue. Thanks for the ideas, guys.

Don

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Use styrene filler made from the kit styrene. All kits use different styrene....some soft some hard......use the same styrene from the sprues of the kit you are building. Here's an article.

http://www.arcair.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT066_...stic/tnt066.htm

Also........one idea to protect surrounding detail during sanding is to cover that detail with masking tape before you begin sanding.

I'm not sure if any of this will help, but I thought I would add my 2 cents.

Best of luck.

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try adding some talc to the superglue. doesnt dry as hard and is easier to sand/scribe. Or use the end of a bottle of extra thin glue and drop some small pieces of sprue into it. The glue will dissolve the sprues and you'll end up with a styrene filler.

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Use styrene filler made from the kit styrene.

Yep, I'd have to agree with this. I've been experimenting lately with using melted styrene goop as a filler, and if you want to scribe through it, nothing beats it. There's a great starter article on LSP:

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=33396

Kev

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Evening all!! I'm building a 1/32 F/A-18E and messed up the refueling door install. I'll have to cover the area and rescribe all lines. I've tried scribing most all putties but they always end up chipping. What do you guys do to make this kind of repair. The spot is almost right on top of the nose, just like a big red zit. If i don't get this right it will look really bad. TIA

Don

Two suggestions. The first is a trick... why rescribe it when it's hard? I often scribe the line in while its soft and let it dry with the line I want. I'm not sure if its helpful in your case, but its worth a try.

The second is a polyester putty. The best is Morimori, however I've heard that Tamiya's stuff is pretty good too. I used to use the stuff preciesly in the way you want to... until I figured out I can scribe lines in regular putty while its soft.

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I would probably use superglue, but if you don't like it, use some of the sprue from the kit. You can chip it up into fine pieces and melt it in some lacquer thinner, M.E.K., Tenax, or something else pretty hot. When it is melted enough to work with, trowel it on in the offending area, making sure to work it into every nook and cranny. Let it dry for a few days, so it cures, gasses out, etc. Then sand it down until you like the looks of it. When you have it smoothed down, you can rescribe as necessary. Good luck!!!

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Check these two installments...

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2011/02/12/s...e-guiding-edge/

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2011/02/10/s...-straight-line/

The third part will be coming shortly. It talks about the materials used as fillers and how it takes to scribing. What is most important is what you're using to scribe with...see the second installment linked above.

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