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30 minutes ago, USMCVet said:

Suggestions, advice, comments, observations, helpful data - all good. Taunting, ridiculing, "I'm an expert and you're not" are not cool.  "Rivet counting" is considered a pejorative - because it describes the impossible pursuit of perfection, often at the expense of other modelers. IPMS judging suffers from both Rivet Counters - and folks with no idea at all of what you're attempting with your model.

I have neither the time, the desire nor the crayons to explain to you where the hobby would be without the "rivet counters" you hate.

Good day to you.

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I have followed this topic with interest, observing what Rotorman and Heavy Artillery were doing to build an UH-34D from the Fly models Wessex kit, inspiring me to try to build a 1966-7 depiction of a UH-34D like I knew so well in Vietnam. The cool thing is building it in 1/32 scale, so detailing it will be well within my vision limits ("Braille Scale") and the uncool thing is the primitivity of the Wessex kit.  I am not going to build it with the engine bay open - partially because detailing the interior, including the engine shrouds, cabling, piping, wiring would likely take me decades to do right and I want to show the "Dog" as I remembered it in combat, ready go get us into the County Fair, remote hilltops, of coming to get our wounded.

I am very fortunate to have a perfectly preserved UH-34D about eight miles from me, so getting the details reasonably well should be straightforward. I have been assisted by fellow members of this thread and I am slowly getting a handle on the tasks needed.

I have started with reading the rather heavy, resin-like kit parts to fit together and I have opened the portside crew windows as all Vietnam UH-34s had their emergency widows removed to provide for firing an M-60 machine gun from that position - that, and Vietnam was always hot, so the added ventilation helped. The canopy is about 2-3 inches thick in scale, so I am attempting to make a new canopy by vacuforming: one with and one without framing - which, if I am successful, I will make available to anyone who wants them.

The nose shape has been a stumbling block: the wonderful aftermarket nose is just a hair too spherical to my eyes, so I am experimenting with some vacuformed pieces to get the shape to my taste - and again, if I am successful, I will make those reshaped engine doors available to everyone who wants them.

The UH-34 has different crew steps in the forward fuselage, so I have marked their locations, as well as the gas filler cap locations on the starboard side.

The photos are of my current primitive state and you'll note my messy building platform, on our dining room table and sharing the space with my Conure parrot, Pickles.

 

777701768_UH34Noseshape.thumb.jpg.e3aec3420e19bb80d8beac83d9abd61a.jpg

UH-34 (6).HEIC

UH 34 Nose shape.jpg

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A couple more photos I am using for reference:

Note the emergency escape windows are removed on the portside, though the machine gun mount is not visible. Also note the hemispherical crew steps in the side of the fuselage, just forward of the landing gear strut

 

UH-34.thumb.jpg.6fad3157021a16eaf3a2342308148338.jpg

 

This UH-34 was shot down in our battery position in January 1967. Note the subdued paint as the realities of surviving in combat became more obvious. Note too, the crew steps and gas fillers on the starboard side.

1509174685_UH-34DinVietnam.thumb.jpg.5bf164c1f72cc7d2df36f98bf0b0e4f8.jpg

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11 minutes ago, USMCVet said:

I have followed this topic with interest, observing what Rotorman and Heavy Artillery were doing to build an UH-34D from the Fly models Wessex kit, inspiring me to try to build a 1966-7 depiction of a UH-34D like I knew so well in Vietnam. The cool thing is building it in 1/32 scale, so detailing it will be well within my vision limits ("Braille Scale") and the uncool thing is the primitivity of the Wessex kit.  I am not going to build it with the engine bay open - partially because detailing the interior, including the engine shrouds, cabling, piping, wiring would likely take me decades to do right and I want to show the "Dog" as I remembered it in combat, ready go get us into the County Fair, remote hilltops, of coming to get our wounded.

I am very fortunate to have a perfectly preserved UH-34D about eight miles from me, so getting the details reasonably well should be straightforward. I have been assisted by fellow members of this thread and I am slowly getting a handle on the tasks needed.

I have started with reading the rather heavy, resin-like kit parts to fit together and I have opened the portside crew windows as all Vietnam UH-34s had their emergency widows removed to provide for firing an M-60 machine gun from that position - that, and Vietnam was always hot, so the added ventilation helped. The canopy is about 2-3 inches thick in scale, so I am attempting to make a new canopy by vacuforming: one with and one without framing - which, if I am successful, I will make available to anyone who wants them.

The nose shape has been a stumbling block: the wonderful aftermarket nose is just a hair too spherical to my eyes, so I am experimenting with some vacuformed pieces to get the shape to my taste - and again, if I am successful, I will make those reshaped engine doors available to everyone who wants them.

The UH-34 has different crew steps in the forward fuselage, so I have marked their locations, as well as the gas filler cap locations on the starboard side.

The photos are of my current primitive state and you'll note my messy building platform, on our dining room table and sharing the space with my Conure parrot, Pickles.

 

777701768_UH34Noseshape.thumb.jpg.e3aec3420e19bb80d8beac83d9abd61a.jpg

UH-34 (6).HEICUnavailable

UH 34 Nose shape.jpg

This is the 3rd H34 build in 1/32 in the world and its looking like an great start.  I am interested in the windshield so I am following your progress. Thanks for posting

 

Oliver

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1 minute ago, USMCVet said:

A couple more photos I am using for reference:

Note the emergency escape windows are removed on the portside, though the machine gun mount is not visible. Also note the hemispherical crew steps in the side of the fuselage, just forward of the landing gear strut

 

UH-34.thumb.jpg.6fad3157021a16eaf3a2342308148338.jpg

 

This UH-34 was shot down in our battery position in January 1967. Note the subdued paint as the realities of surviving in combat became more obvious. Note too, the crew steps and gas fillers on the starboard side.

1509174685_UH-34DinVietnam.thumb.jpg.5bf164c1f72cc7d2df36f98bf0b0e4f8.jpg

I like the armor plates on the pilot seat.

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Note the lightly visible chin armor under the nose and the co-pilot's side armor too. The crew sat about 9 feet up and except for the protection the engine provided from gunfire, the pilots were out in the open. It's funny, but for a helicopter made almost completely from magnesium ("the world's biggest flashbulb") and filled with 115/145 octane gas, I never saw A Dog burn during my whole 15 months in Vietnam. I also never saw a medevac bird turn away: they came in, no matter what! Brave dudes - the best.

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What decals are you looking to have made?  Just about anything can be done with a graphics program and computer printer decal paper (inkjet or laser, depending on your printer type).  The only issue is making white as no normal printer prints in white.  You either have to use white decal paper and try to match the surrounding color or use a commercial Alps printer which does print white.

Edited by HeavyArty
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  • 2 weeks later...

After adding the dio pieces I am making for the dio I am noticing that the base is too small and it looks cramped..it just doesn't flow. 
Here's a new board for the upcoming ground work.

 

IMG_7626.jpeg

IMG_7628.jpeg

IMG_7630.jpeg

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The artists eye... I really admire your work, almost understand it.

It's the scene in your head that dictates the end result, you build for yourself like an artist.

These updates always blow me away!

Andy

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I am always amazed at how you get such great results from your use of plastic in screatchbuilding. How do you get such good curves from plastic rod? Do you use heat to manipulate the plastic?

 

LD.

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On 1/19/2024 at 4:13 AM, Loach Driver said:

I am always amazed at how you get such great results from your use of plastic in screatchbuilding. How do you get such good curves from plastic rod? Do you use heat to manipulate the plastic?

 

LD.

yes I do use low heat from a small hairdryer. 

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41 minutes ago, Rotorman said:

What's HDR photography?

Google found this for me to offer here,

https://www.digitaltrends.com/photography/what-is-hdr-photography/

 

See truck photo at bottom here,

http://digitalphotographyhobbyist.com/7-tips-taking-great-hdr-photos/

 

Let's see if this Flickr link will show the guy's locomotive image,

 

[url=https://flic.kr/p/4RivJ1][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/2417/2526995504_c9be6807e4_c.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/4RivJ1]Western Pacific Train HDR[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/clickclackma/]mike ayers[/url], on Flickr

 

Okay then, let's try this link,

Western Pacific Train HDR

 

Edited by southwestforests
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