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FW190D-9 Hasegawa 1/32


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That's it, my Dora is D.O.N.E :rofl: Should be good news for some of you, as it is the last time I am posting a thread on this subject :rofl:

Before posting the pictures, and for all those interested in details of build, here are some info about this work :

- FW190D-9 1/32 Hasegawa

- Eagle Cals EC#60 decal sheet (1st profile, but see more info about exact deco scheme below) http://www.eagle-editions.com/decal60.htm

- Eagle Parts cockpit EP#40-32 ( http://www.eagle-editions.com/eagleparts40.htm )

- Eagle Parts nose guns cowling EP#41-32 ( http://www.eagle-editions.com/ep41.htm ) : corrected, less bulbous shape

- Eagle Parts front radiator cowling EP#43-32 ( http://www.eagle-editions.com/ep43.htm ) : correct airfoil shape

- Eagle Parts Tail wheel assembly EP#44-32 ( http://www.eagle-editions.com/ep44.htm ) : better details and separate wheel.

- Eduard photo-etch 32101 : flaps ( http://www.eduard.cz/./products/card.php?i...=&page_start=65 )

- Eduard photo-etch 32100 : Exterior Set ( http://www.eduard.cz/./products/card.php?i...=&page_start=65 ) : détails for wheels wells and gear struts, etc...

- Aires : Open wing gun bay

- MDC : Wheels and flexible braided brake hose ( http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/town/place/gfb78/c3228.jpg )

- HobbyDecal - Dry transfers FW190D stencils ( http://www.hobbydecal.com/index.htm )

- Montex - Masks ( http://www.montex-mask.com/indexE.htm ) : masks for painting insignias and masking clear parts

My opinion about Hasegawa kit and extra detail sets :

Hasegawa Dora kit is a very good and safe kit with no huge flaw or problems. For those not willing to invest in several extra-detail kits (because of price or skill required), it is entirely possible to build a real nice D9 "Out Of the Box". Most obvious problems with the kit are, IMHO :

- too bulbous shape of nose gun cowl between guns. Real part is almost flat here.

- tail wheel molded with fork.

- no rivets ! even if you can make a very nice plane without them, rivets were quite obvious on the whole skin of the Dora...

Regarding ease of build, it is a standard Hasegawa quality, with almost no fit problem, except maybe the wing/fuselage fit that need a bit of care and method (but here I did choose the hard path by including a big resin cockpit, gun bay, PE flaps, ...).

Eagle, Aires and MDC extra detail sets are very good and do not show big problems. Eagle cockpit is amazing about amount of details but you need to sand and thin inner sides of fuselage halves a lot to get a good fit (this is normal and documented in Eagle doc).

Eduard Photo-Etched sheets are very thin and nice, and Flaps set is really nice to have. However the External Detail set is really not useful in my opinion : only parts done for details inside wheels bays are worthy, other parts are almost not necessary or even unrealistic given the flat shape of photo-etched parts.

EagleCals EC#60 decal sheet is very good, all stencils are inside and many infos about aircrafts are given, including wartime pictures.

HobbyDecal dry transfers (190D stencils) are also very thin and clearly printed and all stencils you could need are available (or maybe more)... nly possible problem : when you rub the transfer sheet onto the model surface, you can possibly damage the paint layer if you are not carful : you need to apply some amount of pressure on the transfer to remove it from the carier sheet and it is sometimes difficult to avoid scratches and chips on the paint, at least it occured to me several times. But I must confess that as I did not use any protective clear coat and did have a very smooth silver base underneath, camo paint was REALLY fragile...

Last, Montex masks are a very good asset to avoid making yourself of masks for canopy clear parts, and to paint the national insignias instead of using decals... This way, I almost did not use decals : only the '~' symbol on RV bands, and the swastikas on the tail, are decals. Other markings are painted, and stencils are dry transfers.

Scratch work :

- fuselage opening giving access to extra fuel/MW50 tank and master compass (including also all wiring, internal reinforcing struts, starter crank, ...)

- refueling plug and trap door for fuel/MW50 tank behind cockpit

- rudder cut from tail

- drilled exhausts

- drilled nose guns

- wing guns rebuilt with metal tubes

- wires and brake lines in wheel bays and gear struts

- additional hoses and wires on engine assembly, visible from wheel bays openings

- riveting of the whole airframe, done with pin-wise tool and Rosie the Riveter tool ( http://www.largescaleplanes.com/reviews/No...ter/riveter.htm )

- aerial wire

Docs :

- AeroDetail 2

- Squadron Walkaround

- Kagero 6

- "Green Hearts - First in combat with Dora 9" by Axel Urbanke

Paints and tools :

- base coat : silver Tamiya bomb spray TS-30 "Silver Leaf" synthetic paint

- RLM76 : Aircraft Colors acrylic

- RLM 02, 04, 66, 82, 83 : Gunze Sangyo acrylics

- flat clear : Aircraft Colors and Prince August Air

- NO gloss clear varnish used (decals and weathering were directly applied on paint, first rubbed to a smooth, glossy state with MicroMesh)

- Evolution airbrush (Haarder & Steinbeck)

190D-9 210003 :

Summary of info about operational life of this aircraft :

Focke-Wulf 190D-9 werknummer 210003 was build in August, 1944 and delivered at start of September, 44 to 12./JG54, pilot Hans Dortenmann (StaffelKapitan).

The first individual marking was 'Red 1' wearing classical grey/green camo scheme, RLM 76 belly and undersurfaces and RLM04 (Dark Yellow) markings on the engine belly cowls and whole tail (see decal sheet EC#21 : http://www.eagle-editions.com/decal21.htm first profile).

Before end of 1944 (I do not know exact date), this plane is partially repainted in green tones RLM82/83 on upper surfaces to get a more effective camouflage while parked in woods.

At end of February, 1945, remnants of JG54 are moved to JG26 (Hans Dortenmann and its plane goes to 4./JG26). At this time, 210003 is partly repainted : Reich Defense bands of JG26 (black/white), individual marking becoming 'Black 1'. It is believed first that the non-moving part of tail (fin) is painted again in RLM82/83, leaving only the moving rudder in Yellow RLM 04 : http://www.eagle-editions.com/decal60.htm first profile.

On 29 March, 1945, Dortenmann and its plane takes the lead of 3./JG26, and plane individual number is now 'Yellow 1' (http://www.eagle-editions.com/decal21.htm second profile), all other markings staying untouched.

Plane will be volontarily destroyed on ground by Dortenmann on May 5, 1945 to avoid capture by enemy (english) troops.

I am building the plane as it was in March 45, during 4./JG26 era. Its profile is then theorically the one shown on first profile of decal sheet EC#60.

However, Jerry Crandall (author of those decal sheets and of several others add-ons and docs about Doras) wrote to me a few weeks ago to warn me about one thing :

After studying new data about JG26 planes and pilots, he is now thinking that 210003 tail was never repainted, so stayed yellow as a whole until end of war. As the tail was left as it was in end of 1944, the HackenKreuz is also an 'old style', being a 480mm cross with white outline, linke those on 190A-8 tails.

Moreover, Jerry thinks that the space between each Hackenkreuz 'arm' is left unpainted (not yellow), so the initial camo (RLM76/83...) should be visible between HackenKreuz arms, the mechanics did probably use a square mask to protect the cross from yellow paint...

Those proposals have NO final proof, as there is no known picture of whole 210003 plane at any date. The profile described above fits with the many datas gathered by Jerry about JG54/JG26 and planes...

I did choose after getting those infos to recreate thisd plane with a full yellow tail. First camo scheme is still visible between arms of swastikas, that was not painted over. Jerry thinks that werknummer (serial number) on top part of tail was also masked and not painted over. However I did receive this info too late, and already slightly painted over the werknummers which are still visible.

Plane look :

My model recreates the 210003 plane during March 45, at this time the plane was already flown since more than 6 months, and was parked outdoors, hidden among trees, with a cold climate, snowy weather and wet conditions (1944 winter was notoriously bad). All this are for me a proof that an average weathering could be done... This plane was not brand new like most short-lived Doras... National insignias (black crosses) are also faded, however the '~' sign and white-black Rech Defense (RV) bands are NOT weathered : they were painted a few days before... That explains the color difference between crosses and RV bands.

gal23_012.jpg

One of the 3 pics known of 210003 with pilot hans Dortenmann, taken in March, 1945. No whole picture of aircraft seems to exist. Picture extracted from http://www.rlm.at website.

Mistakes and flaws :

Any model is not perfect and mine is no exception of course. Here are the more obvious mistakes/oversights/flaws that could be seen :

- some parts of the top/bottom wing seams on leading edge are still visible

- I forgot to fill and sand the seam separating big air intake and right fuselage flank (no seam here on real plane)

- I forgot to fill and sand the seam on curved part of right side canon bay door, which is an assembly seam between wing and fuselage but does not exist on real plane (not a problem for left bay door as it is the Aires resin part).

- several other problems :rofl:

Note :

I still need to put some more work on the model :

- rebuilding of belly loop antenna which is not 100% right (shape, paint)

- adding a cigar-shaped late war tank undr belly (I need to order it from J. Rutman)

- adding a full outdoor diorama with some figures (crew, pilot, starter or oil cart) : I need to find 1945 Luftwaffe pilot and cart :cheers:

THANKS :

- Vincent "Doc 109" Kermorgan

- Jerry Crandall

- FredCC

- Alan Troi

- Petr Dousek

- Klaus Herold

- Chris Hannover

- several others from modeler web sites: Master194, Check-Six, Modelismo/AmayMC, ARC, HyperScale, LSP

(if I ever forgot to answer requests or questions from some of you, I deeply apologize, I am receiving lot of emails each day, please send your message again, thanks :-)

Edited by BlackDog
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Blackdog, fantastic work, thanks for the complete in progress photoshow,

I just want to ask one little thing : what's the purpose of the overall silver basecoat that is in one of the pics, any reason for that or has it to do with some of the paint chipping, just curious

:thumbsup:

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A wonderful conclusion to wonderful build BD :bandhead2:

ps are you gonna do an article? (just kidding :rofl: )

Hi Andy,

I have two problems about doing an article :

- this is still more work about the model and I am a bit lazy to still write about it

- I am french and english is not my native language. So it's taking more time to get a really good (or at least - understandable ) text.

But if someone with good writing skills was willing to help me with that, I would be able to gather all text written so far about the model, all pics from start to end, so he could build a whole -long- article.

Chris

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Congratulations on another masterpiece. :bandhead2: I hope to reach something close to your level of expertise some day. How many hours do you have into this gem?

Hi Silver1,

good question and difficult answer... I have no real idea... I started this build on October 2, 2004. That's 4 full months. With a very rough estimate of 15 hours/week, maybe around 240 hours of work.

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I just want to ask one little thing : what's the purpose of the overall silver basecoat that is in one of the pics, any reason for that or has it to do with some of the paint chipping, just curious

Hello,

mostly it is for paint shipping : this way I can do scratches, or large paint chip anywhere with a very realistic result, by scratching the paint...

Also it's a kind of primer allowing me to see any flaw or glitch in the assembly (next time I should be more careful here, I left some rough seams).

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