Llarry

I ordered from them once. They were fine. I seem to recall the payment method was a little odd, though safe. IIRC, I placed the order, and then they sent me a PayPal invoice which I then had to go pay. I don't think it's the only payment method available, but it was the best choice for me, even if it took an extra step or so. Shipping was pretty fast considering where they're coming from, and they're really good about collapsing and combining boxes so your order fits in the smallest possible box for postage pricing purposes.

Except for the coastal requirement, I'd suggest coming here to the Phoenix area. Moved here 20 years ago and have no desire to leave. Given the desire to be near water, though, I'd suggest looking into the area around San Diego. Since moving to AZ, we've vacationed in San Diego a couple of times and have decided that if we ever had to leave here, it would be first on the list. I can't answer for the work prospects, but look into it, in San Diego and north maybe as far as Carlsbad or Escondido (any further and you risk getting too close to LA. I hate LA.).

CA is low in shear strength (at right angles to the joint), making it prone to eventually coming apart. Welds fuse the material as Hawkeye described. I actually don't like Tenax. I much prefer Ambroid or the Plastruct products. In my hands, Tenax is slow-starting and then too hot. I put some on, it does nothing, I add a bit more, and then it attacks the parts. I get better control with the other products. YMMV.

I also get good results with PollyScale Italian Camouflage Yellow (#2 I think). It's a little brownish on its own, but makes a nice base coat for other yellows, such as that used for British, Japanese or German recognition markings. In 1/72 and smaller, you can even use it for prop tips, the off shade isn't at all noticeable.

My albums at Photobucket A little of everything there. The Diorama at the top of the main album is 1/35, but most everything else is 1/72. Not perfect, but I like it... A couple of contest winners in there, even. A taste:

They've got the right idea at Fenway Park. You submit an audition tape, if they approve you, they schedule which game you will perform at. You show up, pick up a microphone...and they play your tape. This way they always know what they will be getting (source: Rob Neyer, "Feeding the Green Monster"). Still, with no intention of being unpatriotic, there are many anthems much better (musically) than ours. I have fond memories of growing up watching Bruins games on TV and hearing Rene Rancourt sing O Canada whenever a Canadian team was visiting the Gahden. Then I went to college (RPI) and

Mine was the same way. The bottoms of the wings didn't have the wheel wells, either.

Thanks guys. I may still try to find one that's satisfactorily low-powered and compact, but I won't expect it to be a game-changer.

I've tried using one in modeling, but didn't really like it for that. On the other hand, it's great for cleaning 2000-year-old dirt off of ancient coins... And let me tell you, getting those fibers stuck in your thumb is far from comfy. But survivable.

People are making a big deal over them being the #6 seed. Considering they had a (much) better record than the #4 (Seattle), I don't think it's so surprising.

I just want a good game. I've been a Steeler fan since before the Immaculate Reception (1972). I am a Packers' Shareholder. I can't lose. Also can't not lose.

I've heard of folks using a hair dryer to help with drying paint and decals. Is this really worth doing? If so, are there any particular characteristics to look for when choosing a dryer?

I'd love to get my hands on one, but my wife would kill me. All thanks to the scene in the first one where Johnny 5 walks (rolls?) in on Ally Sheedy in the bathtub and says "Nice software, Steph-an-ie" (guess what my wife's name is...). She heard that line more than a few times after the movie made the rounds on campus. She would kill me. Totally. Completely. Dead.

Sounds like you got a mis-labeled bottle. RLM 75 (and PollyScale's is the one I use) is a medium grey, lighter than Neutral Gray, with just a hint of violet added. The violet really comes out nicely when it's paired with RLM 74, which is very dark and can't quite make up its mind whether to be gray or green. Now PollyScale is fairly likely to change shade somewhat while curing, but I don't think as much as it sounds like it would need to from your description. This my 1/72 Tamiya 190A. The lighter topside color is PollyScale RLM75. (Scheme is standard 74/75/76)

I was thinking that too, but 1936 seems kind of late for mainstream snuff. I'm leaning towards the compass case theory.