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Tamiya 1/48th Scale F-16C Block 50


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Hi guys! Happy New Year to all. I hope the holiday’s treated everyone well!

While I’m waiting for the paint to dry on my Ta-152 so I’m going to start spending a little more time with my next project, a Tamiya F-16. Yeah its true, I’ve already got two F-16s stalled out on the shelf of doom but I’m going to give this a try. Supposed to be a great kit! (Duh – its Tamiya!)

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So as some of you know from my post in the Jet forum, I was looking to figure out a way to build a F-16C Block 52 aircraft and was going to get the Tamiya F-16 aggressor kit. Really what I was going after was an aircraft with a certain A/G load out. You see, I’m a bomb guy. Its kinda what I do, and lately I’ve started to get inspired to build aircraft carrying certain weapons. Hey we all get our inspiration somewhere right? So what I wanted to do was an F-16C with the HTS and a sniper pod, carrying 2 GBU-12s on a TER and 2 GBU-38s on a BRU-57. The Block 52 jet came in because only the block 50/52 jets, post the CCIP mod, are capable of the HTS/SNIPER configuration and the Block 52, with the composite tail feathers looks pretty cool! Also I am "building" a Block 40 F-16 so I wanted to have a little bit of variety in my late model vipers. So that’s how I got there. Then I started doing some research. Turns out all the F-16s that are CCIP and flew in OIF are all Block 50 jets! So that’s how I ended up with a block 50.

Next step was the aftermarket. For the bulk of it I went to Shull24. Not sure how many people know this but Shawn is back in business. His stuff looks fantastic and he had the right things for this build. The Sniper/HTS combo, with the left side HTS pod, he also has a BRU-57 combo with 2 “baby JDAMs†and last but not least, is the GE engine exhaust nozzle. Curt (Netz to those of us here) from Sierra Hotel was kind enough to hook me up with one of their late model F-16C Cockpit upgrade sets which include the late ACES II ejection seat so I’m going to incorporate that and I have a new set of wheels and a single piece nose from Royale Resin on the way. Decals are from Afterburner.

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I’m pretty excited to get started on this project. Hopefully it will look as good as it does in my head when all done. And hopefully, it’ll inspire me to get my other two F-16 kits down and completed!

Stay tuned! This should be fun at least! I mean come on! Its a Tamiya Viper - how can I screw this one up????? :taunt:/>/>

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OK, so it looks like we're officially encouraging each others builds :) Thats a fair old stash of resin, and FWIW, I've always loved Vipers with asymmetric loadouts, so I'm looking forward to seeing this one.

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Great stuff Mike, you have my attention. I have two of these kits in the stash :D/>/> Do me a favor and finish this one. Please.

/Jesse

I can't believe you haven't attempted one of these kits by now. It was one of my first two or three builds after getting back into the hobby this year, because I heard so much good about it. It was all pretty much true. I can't wait to go back and knock out the other one (it's actually the CJ variant) here some time soon, although it's probably going to take a backseat to the 1:32 offering of the very same kit that I've been dying to get started on. Perhaps over the summer that'll be my project.

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Looks like this will be a great build. I look forward to watching it come together.

Then I started doing some research. Turns out all the F-16s that are CCIP and flew in OIF are all Block 50 jets! So that’s how I ended up with a block 50.

No, Block 52s received CCIP, too, and were participants in OIF. The South Carolina ANG was there from the beginning, and has deployed a few times since 2003.

CCIP was also applied to Block 40/42 machines, and some of them are now starting to use the dual Sniper/HTS combo.

Jake

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Thanks to everyone for the encouragement! I am really excited about this build. And you know - its a Tamiya kit! They practically build themselves!

Great stuff Mike, you have my attention. I have two of these kits in the stash :D/>/>/>/> Do me a favor and finish this one. Please.

/Jesse

I'll do my best Jesse! Since this year's modelling goals are already closer to being completed then last year's I am highly encouraged!

OK, so it looks like we're officially encouraging each others builds :)/>/>/> Thats a fair old stash of resin, and FWIW, I've always loved Vipers with asymmetric loadouts, so I'm looking forward to seeing this one.

Thanks Nev - I'll be watching your builds intently. Hopefully we can lean on each other along the way.

Looks like this will be a great build. I look forward to watching it come together.

No, Block 52s received CCIP, too, and were participants in OIF. The South Carolina ANG was there from the beginning, and has deployed a few times since 2003.

CCIP was also applied to Block 40/42 machines, and some of them are now starting to use the dual Sniper/HTS combo.

Jake

Thanks Jake - leave it to you to totally trash my limited research! :stupid:/>/> Ha! Just kidding. I knew that the Block 52s also had recieved the CCIP upgrade, I just didn't know of any that had flew in OIF that I could get decals for. But I do know how I missed the ANG guys, I focused on the big 3 - Shaw AFB, Spangdahlem AB, and the WW guys from Kusan AB (I think). Never even thought to look at reserve/ANG wings. :doh:/>/> But truely - thanks for following along. You are always a huge help and I appreciate it!

My hope was to have some progress pictures to share tonight. I started on the intake this weekend, between decalling sessions on my Ta-152, and went with the latex paint method, but after letting it all dry over night, it looks like I needed another coat. So I did it a second time. With a little luck I should have something to share tomorrow.

Thanks again everyone for looking in!

Mike

Edited by Skinny_Mike
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WW is actually Misawa Air Base, Japan. Kunsan AB, Korea's tailcode is WP, and they fly Block 40's. Your build will be awesome. It's actually quite funny that you are posting this build. I'm waiting on the seamless intakes from SH, and then I'll be starting on mine, using exactly the same decals, weapons load-out and A/M as you. I guess I'll be watching this one closely, and I'll be taking notes from your build.

Aaron

Edited by strikeeagle801
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  • 2 weeks later...

WW is actually Misawa Air Base, Japan. Kunsan AB, Korea's tailcode is WP, and they fly Block 40's. Your build will be awesome. It's actually quite funny that you are posting this build. I'm waiting on the seamless intakes from SH, and then I'll be starting on mine, using exactly the same decals, weapons load-out and A/M as you. I guess I'll be watching this one closely, and I'll be taking notes from your build.

Aaron

Hey Aaron - thanks for correcting me again. :stupid:/>/>/>/> I'm just going to stop talking now! (Haha!) I'm really glad I got the decals when I did. I think Afterburner closed up shop like a week after I ordered this set.

Ok an update for today...

Ive slowly been working on the intake while I am finishing my Ta-152 for a group build on another site that is quickly coming to a close. I elected to use the pour and dump, latex paint method. Ive heard mixed reviews, but I tried it on my F-16A and had reasonably good results until I was dumb enough to try to sand out an imperfection, after the intake was already attached, :doh:/>/>/> so I figured I would have good luck again. Guess not…

First things first. I assembled the four parts of the intake together and cleaned up the ejector pin marks on the main gear bay. Ill see how good I did once I get a coat of paint on them.

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The next step was to create an extension which would be used to combat the surface tension at the drain end of the tube. This surface tension always causes excess paint at the drain end which dries to a thick ring that we dont want to have there. I used a piece of photo paper with the glossy side in. The holes for the intake strut where also plugged up with some blue tack like material. Then I got my setup out to the garage and I poured the paint…

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I waited about 10 minutes and then I poured it out the bottom by removing the putty and let it dry overnight.

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The result was a nice thin layer of semi-gloss white. It really looked excellent, well except I could see all the seams and there was a spot that didnt get covered (must have been a air bubble) right in the front of the intake. So I repeated the process. And the next day I still could see the seams. So I tried again, but this time I let the paint sit for 30 minutes. Unfortunatly the paint at the front started drying and left a think ring around the front of the intake. :bandhead2:/>/>/>/> After letting it sit overnight, I carved out the thick part and then repeated again. And this time I had a completely covered intake. No seam lines to speak of! Success! Or not. :bandhead2:/>/>/>/> The surface was really not smooth. Pitted and inconsistent, and really just too thick. It would have left a lip one the front face of the intake was assembled. Not sure it shows up really well in the picture, but it wasnt very good.

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I thought about this predicament for a few days and decided to try to start over. So I peeled as much of the latex paint out of the intake as I could, sanded out the remainder in the middle and cleaned out the intake with some rubbing alcohol and swabs. I let this sit for a day to ensure everything was dry. In the mean time I went searching for an enamel gloss white exterior paint. I finally found some (Apparently California is making it hard to sell anything anymore! Yes its true California has outlawed oil based house paints!) I then repeated my pour and dump method. And it turned out great. A slight hint of a seam on the left and right sides remained but the finish was smooth as a babys bum! On closer inspection I found some spots that were a little rough from some air bubbles trapped in the paint, so I sanded down the rough spots and repeated the process once more, and got a smooth glossy finish. No sign of the repairs. I am a happy camper! :yahoo:/>/>/>/>

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I painted the compressor face Alclad Steel and attached it. I also started on the wheel wells. Ill get some pictures of those when there is more progress to show.

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I do have one quick question. I painted the intake strut Alclad Stainless Steel based on the pictures in the Modern Viper guide, but Im not sure thats right. And I'm not exactly pleased with the color. Anyone know what the best color is for that thing?

Thanks for looking! See you all soon.

Mike

Edited by Skinny_Mike
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The strut in the intake isn't quite stainless steel. It's heated like the pitot and AOA, so it can be a variety of shades of dark bare metal.

Jake

Thanks Jake - I knew you would be there to help me out!

One thing I forgot to mention in my intake post. The first time I tried the pour and dump method it turned out really well and this time I had a hard time covering up the seams. In retrospect, the first time, I tried to putty up the seams and sand them smooth before I learned about the dump and pour method. I suspect that's why I did so well on that attempt. In the future I am going to follow an new process. First I will assemble the top and bottom halves and clean up that middle seam line. Then I will assemble the top and bottom halves and clean up the seams on the side using a handy new tool I made which is simply a piece of course sand paper tapped to the end of a chop stick. Really works well. The beauty of the pour method, is that the seam doesn't need to be perfect, just pretty good. The paint should hide any minor imperfections. Then I'll use the pour method. I'll probably stick with the enamal paint, but I might try Tamiya Gloss White next time. I've heard some people have had good luck with it.

Until next time...

Thanks for looking in

Mike

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I've only done the intake pour thing twice, but I've used Tamiya paint both times and its worked well, I think its a bit thicker than enamel paints so it fills the gap better. I give the intake a coat of white primer before sticking it together, so the pour is just to fill the gap, not paint the whole thing.

Of course, you could always do what I intend to do on my next build and put a FOD cover in the intake... :P

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey Everybody.

I finished my Ta-152, just in time for the drawing I had entered, so I am now totally focused on this build. I went back to the beginning and started work on the cockpit. I am using the kit parts, at least up to this point. Here it is all assembled and painted.

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I painted the pit with Model Master Acrylic Dark Gull Gray. The panels are Vallejo black with Lifecolor Light Ghost Gray and Red and Model Master Chrome Silver for all the knobs and switches. I also painted the floor in Tamiya Khaki to simulate the canvas floor of the real jet. Not sure if any of the floor is visible under the seat or not. I didn’t weather the pit too much, only adding some scuffs on the floor where the pilot puts his feet. I dry brushed this area, first with MM flat gull gray followed by some chrome silver which I also used on the rudder pedals. I think it turned out pretty well.

Once I finished the pit, I set it aside to dry and finished the intake. I wasn’t so happy with the way Tamiya engineered this area. I was left with seem lines in places that were hard to get rid of, and of all things, the front “lip†part of the intake was a little too small, leaving a step at the bottom of the seam.

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But I persevered. I ended up using Vallejo putty to fill the seams, then sanded and painted the intake to check my work. Turns out I did an awful job! So I tried some super glue as filler. Sand/primer/more glue/sand/primer and it looked good. So I plugged the mouth of the intake and sprayed the underside of the fuselage and the top of the intake with Lifecolor UA 028 FS36270 Grey. I did this to help get even coverage in the awkward gap between the intake and the fuselage. Then I attached the intake/wheel bay assembly and the cockpit.

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The plastic piece in front of the cockpit was added as a wall to support the nose weight I plan to end. It always seems to happen that once I am in a real position to find out if I have a tail sitter, it’s too late! So I typically end up putting a bunch of weight in the nose, just in case. I also added the HOT warning decal on the inside of the intake. I actually did this prior to assembly, and sorry I know it’s kind of a bad picture.

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So there it is. I’m defiantly going to be making some good progress now. I’m hoping to have this guy done by early March so I don’t have to pack it up when I re-do my office/man cave/hobby center.

Now I have a couple of questions to the experts. The plane I am building is going to be pretty late model, like 2006-2007. During this time frame would the aircraft have the helmet mounted cueing sensor? And I have a question about the canopy color. I heard that there was a move in the works to replace all the canopies with clear ones as they are better when using NVGs. What would a block 50 in 06-07 have? What I want to do is a tinted back half with a clear forward half. Does that seem reasonable?

Thanks for watching and see you all soon!

Mike

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys! Time for an update.

I haven’t been making as much progress lately due to poor work/life balance but some things have happened lately. First off I have the fuselage together and the wings and nose added on. I didn’t take a whole lot of pictures through this stage, mostly because it’s just adding parts and following the directions. Nothing too special.

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The radome is the Royale Resin replacement and it looks great. Because Tamiya made the nose as two pieces the top “zipper†seam is not accurately represented. Using the Royale Resin replacement makes it all one piece and the fit is perfect.

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Next step was to move onto the exhaust. For this part I am using the Shull24 GE engine exhaust. The details and the casting of Shawn’s stuff is really just fantastic. Sow the following is going to be a bit of a step by step on how I finished the exhausts. I think they look ok but I would like some honest feedback, especially for the colors I chose as this was my first attempt at a used fighter exhaust. First off a few photos of the parts before I got started…

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All of the interior parts received an initial primer coat using Alclad Gray Primer. So here is the step by step, one part at a time.

Rear Engine Face:

This part has two individual parts, the engine face and the flame holder. The engine face received a coat of Alclad Burnt Iron and was set aside to dry.

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The flame holder was first sprayed in Alclad Dark Aluminum. Once that dried it was followed with an overspray of Alclad Transparent Blue on the inner circle and followed with Alclad Jet Exhaust on the outer circle.

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After the flame holder was completed the two parts were assembled and set aside.

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In the end, I think the engine face could have used a bit of a wash and the blue is a little too overpowering.

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Exhaust Interior and the Donut Panel:

After I removed the pour stub (which I did a terrible job of BTW) and primered, the first step was to spray the inside tunnel with Polly Scale Dirty White. That was followed with a gloss coat and then a wash using MIG Dark Wash followed again by a flat coat.

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Next I lightly sprayed some Alclad Jet Exhaust from the back side to attempt to give that darkened burned interior look to the engine. The photos arent the best, but the effect was really good.

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Once the inside was finished, I stuffed some tissue inside to protect the finish and I primed the outside using Tamiya Gray Primer from the rattle can. I switched up the primer here because I knew that I would need to mask off areas and I always seem to have issues, like everyone, when I mask over the Alclad Primer. Once the primer had dried, I sprayed Alclad White Aluminum on the metal ring at the end.

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I would love to tell you I masked that little tiny ring, but alas the tape wouldnt hold on such a small surface. So what I ended up doing was spraying the whole area Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black, to simulate the composite material used to make the donut ring, let that dry, masked it using Friskit film and re-sprayed the White Aluminum. It turned out perfectly.

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Exhaust Petals:

The exhaust petals are made up of two parts. The inner petals are a separate piece with detail on the inside and the outer end ring. I took much more time and care removing the pour stub so that I was sure to get a good fit inside the outer feathers, without any gaps. The interior again was sprayed Polly Scale Dirty While, followed by the same gloss/wash/flat sequence.

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After this was completed, the outer surface was sprayed MM Gloss Black. Once the black was dried I sprayed Alclad Stainless Steel over the outside to give a dark metallic appearance. Then I cut the shine down with a thick flat coat. In the end, it looked exactly like I wanted it to. Unfortunately I forgot to photograph this affect before I assembled the parts.

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The outer petals also received the interior Dirty White treatment at the inside end where this part assemble inside the donut panel. I also sprayed interior of the petals in Alclad pale burnt metal, which was completely unnecessary as its invisible once the parts are assembled.

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Then the exterior was painted. Again, I primered with Tamiya Gray Primer followed by Alclad Magnesium. Then I spent the better part of an evening masking the wear pads and finally sprayed them using Floquil Weathered Black. Based on my reference photos, I think the can looks about right, but I probably would try to use a darker gray next time.

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Next step was assembly. Which I did and then dry fitted the exhaust to the aircraft.

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And lastly, here is the family photo with all the different paints I used for the engine. It took a long time, mostly just waiting for the paints to cure properly before moving onto the next steps. I think its a good first effort but would love some advice on ways to improve. I got lots of modern jets lined up for future builds!

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One last note - I am thinking about changing the ordnance this aircraft was going to have. I found a picture of a Spang Viper from the conflict over Libya loaded with 2 GBU-38s on a BRU and an AGM-88 HARM on the other wing. It looks cool and lets me have a good reason for both the SNIPER pod and the HTS pod. But Im having trouble deciding. Anyone have any thoughts? Basically HARM or GBU-12s?

Thanks for watching and please I want all the comments I can get on this post, like I said, just trying to improve!

Mike

Edited by Skinny_Mike
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Mike-

The Viper is coming along nicely, thanks for sharing all of the AM that is out there for the Viper :thumbsup:/> IMO you have done an excellent job on the Shull afterburner. I googled some photos of the real deal and yers looks great man :thumbsup:/> For me, the petals are a PITA to paint & weather... I always want to break up the metal look a bit. Those Tamiya weathering sets are pretty handy for subtle shading, which is the route I'm gonna try on my exhausts.

/Jesse

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Mike-

The Viper is coming along nicely, thanks for sharing all of the AM that is out there for the Viper :thumbsup:/>/> IMO you have done an excellent job on the Shull afterburner. I googled some photos of the real deal and yers looks great man :thumbsup:/>/> For me, the petals are a PITA to paint & weather... I always want to break up the metal look a bit. Those Tamiya weathering sets are pretty handy for subtle shading, which is the route I'm gonna try on my exhausts.

/Jesse

Thanks Jesse. I think I'm going to try some pigments next time and see how that turns out. I might try the Tamiya sets and see how they do. I do wish the wash was a little more consistant, but i didn't realize the problem until i was looking at the pictures!

I vote for the GBU-38's and HARM. Coolest loadout I've seen on a Viper. Saw that same pic a while ago, and was leaning towards that as well. We've got all of the same A/M...Might as well have the same loadout right? :D/>

Aaron

Thanks Aaron. I pretty much decided I'm going to do the HARM. It looks prety bad @$$ and has the added benifit of conserving my limited supply of GBU-12 decals! BTW Aaron - when are you starting yours?

So - does anyone know what color a HARM is? I know is not white, but its a really light gray.

Mike

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The proper color for a HARM is Camoflage Gray FS36622. I usually lighten up a little further with white. I'm waiting for some parts from Sierra Hotel Models, and when I get those, I may start it. I've got a Blackhawk I'm working on for the size DOES matter GB, and I've got a Tamiya Skyraider on the table too.

Aaron

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Thanks for the kind words every one, and thanks for the help with the load out. So the plan now will be; 2 GBU-38s, 1 AGM-88, 2 AMRAAMs, 2 AIM-9Ms and an ALQ-131 pod on the centerline.

I need some more help. Any one have any thoughts on how to make the static dischargers located on the wings and tails?

Thanks for the help! See you all soon.

Mike

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