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wardog

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About wardog

  • Rank
    Plastic Surgeon
  • Birthday 11/12/1966

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    Male
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    california

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  1. Very nice indeed! The attention to detail is outstanding; very well done. -Elmo
  2. Hello Rich, It's always nice to hear from The Master....and thank you again for all the positive feedback along the years. If I were smart, I would have waited to complete the hinges and glued them in place over bare plastic using TETC. However, because I was impatient and wanted to see the results of all the wing work, I shot a coat of primer. I knew this would present a small problem later when gluing the hinges but nothing I wasn't prepared for. I will be using the glue shown below to glue the hinges over the primer. It's a SUPER strong white glue which I've had great results with in the strength department. Of course the bond will never be as strong as if I had used TETC. When locating the hinges, I'll apply pressure and remove any large glue blobs that squeeze out as they are practically impossible to remove once dry. After a day or so, I'll completely remove any remaining glue residue with slightly damp pointed swabs as any residue left behind will show through subsequent primer/paint coats. The clean up process also dissolves the glue just enough to act as a filler for any gaps present at the contact area. The hinges won't be exposed to any loads, other than an errant slip of my hand during handling so the white glue should suffice. Cheers -Elmo
  3. As always, thanks for all of your comments. I found some modeling time recently so I've been focusing on the speed brake hinges which aside from the wingfold area, are the last details necessary to complete the outboard wing sections. I must say that I wasn't prepared mentally for how much work was involved, nor the amount of time required to finish them. Unfortunately, I couldn't really skimp on any of the detail, especially the wing bottoms, as with the wings folded they are one of the most prominent visual elements of this build. Initially, I was not going to re-do the speed brake hinges because of the extra work required to an already exhausting build. However, considering how much work I've put in to this build and how generic the speed brake hinges are (pic below), I decided it would be a huge injustice to leave them as-is. At this point, all of the lower wing hinges are complete; the upper wing hinges are a bit more complicated but not too bad. The new hinges are a good improvement over the kit ones but are not perfect. The real hinges taper from top to bottom and along their length which is something I do not have the patience to try and represent. However, each real hinge is made up of a fwd/aft section and joined together with a bolt/nut which I did capture. For the nuts and bolts I used a combination of photo-etch nuts and solid shank hex head fasteners as shown in the pics below. The kit hinges. As you can see, pretty anemic. The new hinges. Better but far from perfect. You can see the hex head bolt on the inboard side of the outboard hinge in the two pics directly below. As stated earlier, no taper on the hinges because unless I used tooling, I wouldn't be able to achieve decent results by hand. Here is my arsenal of nuts and the bolts I used. The bolts are 0.7mm in size. The bolts come in a variety of types and sizes from 0.7 - 5.0mm. That's it for now. Thanks for looking. -Elmo
  4. Congrats on the awards Chuck; I'm sure they're well deserved! I was not present at the show so I cannot comment on the fairness of the judging. However, at least for me, the best part of entering a model contest is to give the attendees an opportunity to see your work up close and personal. I've attended many model shows in my day and have seen many undeserving entries place, even ones with huge fingerprints visible to the naked eye. Because of that, I've lost most of my faith in competent judging as even in this corny hobby, you can't get away from politics! Congrats again on your awards! -Elmo
  5. Hola Carlos, Looks like you have quite the challenging build in front of you! However, you're doing a great job with all the modifications you're incorporating and the execution. Good luck with the rest of the build and I'm sure it will be a beauty when finished. Cheers -Elmo
  6. Hello RedCrown, thanks for looking and the feedback. There's quite a few steps involved in getting results that look decent and of course, some very useful tools. I typically start by using a pencil with a sharpened tip and Post it Notes to draw out where I want the panel lines. This step is key because it helps ensure when putting down the Dymo Tape that you stay true to the lines you drew. Once the tape is secure, I use a very small diameter sewing needle chucked in a pin vise and go over each line multiple times. It's also important to try and use consistent pressure from start to finish so the lines come out devoid of sections that are too deep or shallow. I then use 3200 or so sandpaper to clean the ridge along the line that develops when scribing followed by running the scriber along the lines as many times as I need to to achieve the desired result. That's basically it! It's a very simple process but It's very time consuming to achieve the results you see in the pics. The other recommendation is simply to practice. It takes a little while to get the hang of it but you'll get it. I also now have at least three different needle diameters I use to achieve the look I'm after. For 48th scale, I use the smaller of my needles for the majority of lines to maintain scale appearance. One other thing to keep in mind is to use a needle that is large enough, but not too large, to allow for subsequent layers of paint, clear coats and washes to flow into the lines you scribe. If you have any other questions feel free to let me know. Cheers -Elmo
  7. Steve, glad to hear you haven't abandoned the project. Can't wait to see your next Tomcat done; the "D" variant is my personal favorite. Good luck with both builds. And as a side note, as soon as I'm done with the OB wing panels I'll be starting on the windscreen you gave me.....thanks again! -Elmo
  8. Thanks to all for the comments; they're very much appreciated. I'm not sure why I was having issues with the pics loading as they are part of a shared album which I've used before with success. I created an entirely new "shared" album for the pics and that seemed to resolve the issue. A-10 Loader, I've been meaning to send you a PM to inquire about your A-6 build as I haven't seen any updates recently. I hope you haven't abandoned the project as you seem to be pretty far along with it. RichB63, I kind of figured if anyone here would know what those spikes are for it would be you, the resident A-6 expert. Thanks for clarifying and you're probably right as it makes perfect sense. ViperZero, Maniacal??? I agree with you 100%. Only someone with a few screws loose would devote this much time to try and get the details correct on the wings. A normal person would have simply sanded away the raised panel lines and scribed new ones in place of the old ones and call it good. On the bright side, I'm glad my obsession is used for something I enjoy. Thanks again to all for looking. Cheers -Elmo
  9. It looks like I was able to get one pic to load........I'm trying the same process with the other pics but they just don't seem to want to load. It's late now and I don't really have the patience to deal with this at the moment. I'll give it another shot tomorrow......sorry about the inconvenience. -Elmo
  10. Hello conehead, thanks for letting me know. I'm not sure why they're not visible if they are coming from a shared folder. I'm trying to figure it out now.....Thanks again. -Elmo
  11. Time for a quick update. I have been focusing on detailing the outboard wing panels; specifically with scribing and adding all the small doublers along the panel lines. The Paragon wingfold resin set I grafted on represents a composite wing which is considerably different than the metal wing. One of the major differences is the panel line configuration. I've taken many reference shots of the composite wings sitting around on pallets at the Yanks Air Museum to try and get them right on my build....why, I have no idea! All the measuring and cutting of Dymo Tape to get the panels close to how they should be was mentally excruciating.....not to mention laying out all the rivets by hand. Laying out all the detail is also extremely time consuming. If I wasn't so far along on this kit I would have thrown in the towel at this point. Although I'm only showing one OB wing panel in the pics, they're both almost done. The major work left is scratch building the speed brake hinges as the kit ones are pretty bad. Luckily, they shouldn't be too hard to make as they are pretty simple. Again, thanks to all those that have looked, left comments and maintained interest in this build. A pic of the wing bottom showing the panel and rivet detail added. The large antenna towards the wing tip also got reworked as well as a few other items. Another angle showing the leading edge detail, including the addition of the two pointy probes. I still do not know their purpose. They were made out of cut sewing needles....one a bit larger in diameter than the other just like on the real wing. The spoiler temporary attached to see if it still fits okay. You can also see how thin the flap trailing edge is. I thought I had thinned it too much but after scale converting 1/8 & 1/4 in., which is what I believe the dimensions on the real thing fall within, i got what translates to a measurement of between 2 & 5 thousands in 48th scale. That said, the trailing edge is within the ballpark. A better view of the top of the wing which shows the panel detail, riveting and doublers. One last pic showing the wing tip light and antenna, both of which got re-worked. That's it for now. My next update will show both wings panels complete with speed brake hinges attached. Cheers Elmo
  12. Hello all, Wondering if anyone out there has any reference pics of the struts used to support the wings when folded. The struts, which I believe may also be called "jury struts" and are usually red in color. Thanks Elmo
  13. Hello All, Thought I'd update this post to make it current as it's been a month and didn't get any replies. Hoping that by making it current a new batch of eyes takes a look. I'm actually just looking for a replacement windscreen (PN 200) only. I tried ordering one through Revell but can't seem to get one these days. Thanks for looking, Elmo
  14. Thanks for checking in coneheadff and kike. Here are a few extra pics I wanted to upload earlier but ran out of time. I finally finished the tail lights and after many failed attempts, finally made a set that I was satisfied with. The lights start off as a chunk of Tamiya light curing putty and then sanded by hand. As is always the case, making the first of two is easy; however, making the second is where it gets tricky as it needs to be symmetrical to the first. I'm also including a pic of the reworked throttle......not much different than when I first finished it but a bit different nonetheless. In the coming weeks I'll be finishing up the windscreen detail and hopefully gluing and blending it to the fuselage. I believe this will be the hardest part to get right as the fit is poor at best. I also had to expand it in width to make it fit. Hopefully I can claim success in the coming weeks. The tail lights...... And a pic of the throttle.. Till next time....... -Elmo
  15. Youngtiger1, Thanks to you and those who continue to follow this WIP and provide feedback; always appreciated. Also, hats off to you for even finding my WIP as the last time it was updated was way back in December. I'm still actively working on this model on those rare moments I can find some free time. I've been concentrating on the windscreen and the framing and gadgets that are on the inside of it. Below are a few pics of my first attempt. Adding the framing was a pain as I'm using super strong white glue to attach to not leave permanent marks but the glue in itself softens up every time I clean excess residue. Unfortunately, leaving too much residue would be almost impossible to dissolve once dry so u have to clean the excess carefully as It's drying. However, the cleaning process always softens the glue just enough to cause the parts to shift a bit.....patience is key here. I also tried Future for the first time on the windscreen....the effect is nice but like everything else in modeling, you have to learn to work with it. The one thing I've learned from dealing with polishing canopies is that unless you have significant scratches or defects, the micro polishing cloths are not required. I have found that using them will soften the edges of any frames that are molded onto the clear parts. On a spare canopy that just had light imperfections, I used headlight lens restorer for automobiles, which is pretty rough followed by polishing with Tamiya polishing compounds. This process yielded a very nice result without degrading any of the frames that may be present. I then followed by dipping in future and the end result was as good as I need. Here is a pic of the frames on the backside of the windscreen and the part I hand made which has the slot on top. Many more parts to make for this area including some instruments and other elements. Kind of unrelated but I had to rework the throttle assembly as one of the throttle handles broke off and vanished. I Also broke off the sight glass and couldn't find it so I had to make a new one as well. Basic clear plastic here with the green edges represented by using a classic wide tip green Sharpie. I have many more pics but I'm out of time at the moment. Thanks for looking -Elmo
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