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About wardog

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    Plastic Surgeon
  • Birthday 11/12/1966

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  1. Steve, She turned out great; definitely worth the wait. The base really brings it all together too. Bummer that you experienced so many issues with your post. Glad It's all fixed now. Good luck on your next build. -Elmo
  2. She's looking great for sure. I'm glad you never abandoned the project, especially since you were so far along. Good luck as you head towards the finish line. Elmo
  3. Looking real nice Steve; and for a 30+ year old model, not too bad at all! -Elmo
  4. Not sure why the pics aren't showing up when I initially load them here. Each new pic I take is saved in my Google Photos first and prior to sharing on ARC I always transfer them to the shared folder. Anyway, I created yet another new folder as that seemed to work the last time I had this issue. If they're not visible now, my apologies.......maybe I'll have to find a different service to share pics. Cheers Elmo
  5. To continue with the latest theme of Intruder and Prowler WIP updates, here are a few pics of the work I recently completed on the outboard wing panels. The panels are now as complete as they are gonna be at this stage of the build and include the modified speed brake hinges and the ECM antennas. The speed brake hinges received a slight modification from the ones shown in my previous update. All eight hinges had their top sections tapered which at first I decided to forego for fear of screwing them up. Now that the O/B panels are done I can concentrate on the windscreen. A couple of pictures of the top wing sections. And a few pics of the bottom. Here is a closeup of a top/inbd hinge completed prior to paint. That's all for now. Cheers E
  6. Great work so far! I like all the extra work you're doing which will pay off at the end. -Elmo
  7. Steve, I'm glad you resurrected this build; you're too far along to shelve her! The Rockeys look outstanding and the brass pitot tube is a nice touch. My only suggestion with the pitot, assuming It's not already glued on would have been to install it the very end once the model is 99.9% complete. Having a very delicate item like that protruding out is risky as the odds of knocking it off during handling are very high, not to mention the damage you'll cause to the pitot and surrounding area. An option would be to super glue it at the end and also use super glue as a filler for any gaps around the periphery of the tube. Once dry you can clean off any excess glue residue with super glue de-bonder for a clean finish. After that you can mask around the tube and the white styrene piece and paint accordingly. Good luck with the rest of the build! -Elmo
  8. Collin, A pat on the back along with a case of your preferred beer is in order for your perseverance in getting the canopy just right and finishing her up. The strike test livery is really eye-catching and one I considered for my current A-6 project. The items of concern listed above could probably be left as-is since only the trained eye could spot them and the overall presentation is more than good enough. Additionally, when reworking something already built, you always have to consider the risk/reward factor, especially if you don't plan to enter your model into a contest where the noted items could count against you. Again, great Job! -Elmo
  9. Very nice indeed! The attention to detail is outstanding; very well done. -Elmo
  10. Hello Rich, It's always nice to hear from The Master....and thank you again for all the positive feedback along the years. If I were smart, I would have waited to complete the hinges and glued them in place over bare plastic using TETC. However, because I was impatient and wanted to see the results of all the wing work, I shot a coat of primer. I knew this would present a small problem later when gluing the hinges but nothing I wasn't prepared for. I will be using the glue shown below to glue the hinges over the primer. It's a SUPER strong white glue which I've had great results with in the strength department. Of course the bond will never be as strong as if I had used TETC. When locating the hinges, I'll apply pressure and remove any large glue blobs that squeeze out as they are practically impossible to remove once dry. After a day or so, I'll completely remove any remaining glue residue with slightly damp pointed swabs as any residue left behind will show through subsequent primer/paint coats. The clean up process also dissolves the glue just enough to act as a filler for any gaps present at the contact area. The hinges won't be exposed to any loads, other than an errant slip of my hand during handling so the white glue should suffice. Cheers -Elmo
  11. As always, thanks for all of your comments. I found some modeling time recently so I've been focusing on the speed brake hinges which aside from the wingfold area, are the last details necessary to complete the outboard wing sections. I must say that I wasn't prepared mentally for how much work was involved, nor the amount of time required to finish them. Unfortunately, I couldn't really skimp on any of the detail, especially the wing bottoms, as with the wings folded they are one of the most prominent visual elements of this build. Initially, I was not going to re-do the speed brake hinges because of the extra work required to an already exhausting build. However, considering how much work I've put in to this build and how generic the speed brake hinges are (pic below), I decided it would be a huge injustice to leave them as-is. At this point, all of the lower wing hinges are complete; the upper wing hinges are a bit more complicated but not too bad. The new hinges are a good improvement over the kit ones but are not perfect. The real hinges taper from top to bottom and along their length which is something I do not have the patience to try and represent. However, each real hinge is made up of a fwd/aft section and joined together with a bolt/nut which I did capture. For the nuts and bolts I used a combination of photo-etch nuts and solid shank hex head fasteners as shown in the pics below. The kit hinges. As you can see, pretty anemic. The new hinges. Better but far from perfect. You can see the hex head bolt on the inboard side of the outboard hinge in the two pics directly below. As stated earlier, no taper on the hinges because unless I used tooling, I wouldn't be able to achieve decent results by hand. Here is my arsenal of nuts and the bolts I used. The bolts are 0.7mm in size. The bolts come in a variety of types and sizes from 0.7 - 5.0mm. That's it for now. Thanks for looking. -Elmo
  12. Congrats on the awards Chuck; I'm sure they're well deserved! I was not present at the show so I cannot comment on the fairness of the judging. However, at least for me, the best part of entering a model contest is to give the attendees an opportunity to see your work up close and personal. I've attended many model shows in my day and have seen many undeserving entries place, even ones with huge fingerprints visible to the naked eye. Because of that, I've lost most of my faith in competent judging as even in this corny hobby, you can't get away from politics! Congrats again on your awards! -Elmo
  13. Hola Carlos, Looks like you have quite the challenging build in front of you! However, you're doing a great job with all the modifications you're incorporating and the execution. Good luck with the rest of the build and I'm sure it will be a beauty when finished. Cheers -Elmo
  14. Hello RedCrown, thanks for looking and the feedback. There's quite a few steps involved in getting results that look decent and of course, some very useful tools. I typically start by using a pencil with a sharpened tip and Post it Notes to draw out where I want the panel lines. This step is key because it helps ensure when putting down the Dymo Tape that you stay true to the lines you drew. Once the tape is secure, I use a very small diameter sewing needle chucked in a pin vise and go over each line multiple times. It's also important to try and use consistent pressure from start to finish so the lines come out devoid of sections that are too deep or shallow. I then use 3200 or so sandpaper to clean the ridge along the line that develops when scribing followed by running the scriber along the lines as many times as I need to to achieve the desired result. That's basically it! It's a very simple process but It's very time consuming to achieve the results you see in the pics. The other recommendation is simply to practice. It takes a little while to get the hang of it but you'll get it. I also now have at least three different needle diameters I use to achieve the look I'm after. For 48th scale, I use the smaller of my needles for the majority of lines to maintain scale appearance. One other thing to keep in mind is to use a needle that is large enough, but not too large, to allow for subsequent layers of paint, clear coats and washes to flow into the lines you scribe. If you have any other questions feel free to let me know. Cheers -Elmo
  15. Steve, glad to hear you haven't abandoned the project. Can't wait to see your next Tomcat done; the "D" variant is my personal favorite. Good luck with both builds. And as a side note, as soon as I'm done with the OB wing panels I'll be starting on the windscreen you gave me.....thanks again! -Elmo
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