Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Army_Air_Force

  • Rank
    Century Bombers CO

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Washington, UK
  • Interests
    R/C Large Model Aircraft, Military Vehicles, Railroad Modelling, WW2 History, Astronomy

Recent Profile Visitors

12,246 profile views
  1. Silver was sprayed on the tail section too. After that had a little time to dry, I filled around the tail glazing joints and also on the fairing at the inner end of the elevator which had a bit of a sink hole.
  2. The rudder leading edge also needed a little filler. It had previously had styrene added to the leading edge. I also gave the ragged sheared metal, where the aircraft was cut, a coat of silver paint. I'll probably use some form of masking fluid randomly along this joint before spraying the top coats.
  3. After a bit of a sanding here and there, I glued the tail gunner's glazing in place. It would require a bit of filling around the fairing joint, which was left until the glazing joint had hardened up. The next step was to add some styrene into the leading edge of the elevators. Both elevators were clamped between some scrap wood to hold everything straight. They also required a little filler. Once dry, the edge will be sanded flat and a new piece of styrene added which will be sanded into the leading edge radius.
  4. I felt the need for a couple of inspirational photos!
  5. It was very cold out in the workshop this morning, but I did a little sanding of the filler applied late last night and got some primer on the tail and waist. The wooden floor in the waist still needs the ends snapping/tearing from the guillotine, but they won't go in until the fuselage is painted. I'm tempted to paint,decal and weather both of these sections before moving on to the rest of the airframe.
  6. The second stabiliser was glued in place and thick tube glue used to do a little gap filling on the underside. I then applied some filler, thinned with a strong acrylic solvent that I normally use for assembling parts. The parts were taped in place to hold it all still while the glue hardens up over night. Here you can see the vertical stab false trailing edge with filler applied and also the fairing leading into the tail gunner's glazing. I'll probably get primer on and check the look of everything before I consider fitting the tail glazing.
  7. The elevator halves were glued together today, but still need a new leading edge fitting and the hinge slots cutting out. The false trailing edge of the stabiliser had previously been filled with styrene, but needed some sanding. It would also need a little filler here and there. A piece of scrap styrene was fitted into the top of the fuselage, under where the rudder sits. After a time to dry, it was trimmed and sanded flush with the top of the fairing that leads into the tail gunner's glazing. The vertical stab false trailing edge was then sanded. After a bit of trimming and sanding of the stab root, the port stab was glued in place and left a while to harden up before moving.
  8. I did a little tinkering on the B-17 today. Some parts of the fuselage had already been scribed, but nothing had been sanded and neither of the horizontal stabilisers had been scribed. So the first job today was scribing the stabs, followed by wet sanding. The two fuselage sections had already been scribed, but both pieces needed the scribing slots sanding and cleaning out. The fuselage seams also needed sanding and there were some areas of filler to be sanded too.
  9. You may have thought this project had dropped off the end of the modelling bench, but it's still ongoing ( slowly ) due to school work and other activities. Today we did a little more painting for an hour after school. I finished painting the Jeep windscreen and the Jeep body got another coat as there were a few thin spots from the first coat. We also did some figure painting. There was quite a lot of flash and being the horrible rubbery plastic Airfix use for figures, trimming and sanding doesn't work well. Instead I opted for a soldering iron and melted flash away and seams flat. That worked fairly well.
  10. I got the rest of the diorama back out too, just to show her how far we'd already come on this project. It also reminded her how great it looked and how much of it she had done herself, albeit still with lots of step by step guidance. To finish the session, the rest of the Jeep body was given its first coat of green and while she did that, I gave one side of the windscreen its first coat of green. Masking or painting that freehand was still beyond her current skill level. The parts were all placed in the curing cabinet and we left it to do other stuff. Not massive progress, but another step along the road.
  11. The Jerry can on the back was added next and left to dry. The wooden handles of the axe and shovel were also painted and left to bake in my curing cabinet.
  12. After what felt like weeks of inactivity due to school work and other after school activities, my daughter got back to her diorama today. Having given the front of the Jeep a coat of paint last time, we got the headlights cut out and glued into the back of the grill. This would allow the hood and instrument panel to be fitted - almost! The instructions called for the screen arms to be trapped under the hood as it was glued in place, but as it wasn't yet painted and was fragile, I didn't want it fitted just yet. The pivot arms were quite long so I cut them about 1mm shorter and this allowed the screen to be fitted later by stretching the arms around the Jeep body. So with the screen adapted and able to be fitted later after clear coats and decals etc, the way was clear to attach the hood. It was left clamped to dry while we went on a model shop trip for some supplies for other projects. When we got back, we had lunch and then went back out to the workshop. There were some other small parts that needed to be painted, but that I didn't want to attach straight away, so things like the steering wheel, mirror and spare Jerry cans were painted and left to dry.
  13. With the model fixed to the studding, it was slotted into a piece of wood with matching holes which held the model upright. I was then able to position the model over the background picture and while holding the wood still, remove the model. This gave me the drilling position for the mounting holes in the background picture. With the holes drilled, the back of the frame was nailed onto the box frame. The model could then be bolted into the frame. The glass was then cleaned before adding the mount card, glass and front of the frame, which are held on with metal tabs pushed into the box frame and screwed into the frone frame.
  14. The pine box frame was made from some 8mm cladding, cut to a suitable height and mitred at the corners. The Broussard frame can be seen in the corner clamps, and was glued and also uses 'V' nails in the corners to hold the frame together. The deeper frame parts were for the framed Sea King. A closer view of the clamps and the 'V' nails can just be seen in each corner joint.
  15. A couple more pictures of #002 first, before moving on to the frame.
  • Create New...