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About Army_Air_Force

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    Century Bombers CO

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  • Location
    Washington, UK
  • Interests
    R/C Large Model Aircraft, Military Vehicles, Railroad Modelling, WW2 History, Astronomy

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  1. You may have thought this project had dropped off the end of the modelling bench, but it's still ongoing ( slowly ) due to school work and other activities. Today we did a little more painting for an hour after school. I finished painting the Jeep windscreen and the Jeep body got another coat as there were a few thin spots from the first coat. We also did some figure painting. There was quite a lot of flash and being the horrible rubbery plastic Airfix use for figures, trimming and sanding doesn't work well. Instead I opted for a soldering iron and melted flash away and seams flat. That worked fairly well.
  2. I got the rest of the diorama back out too, just to show her how far we'd already come on this project. It also reminded her how great it looked and how much of it she had done herself, albeit still with lots of step by step guidance. To finish the session, the rest of the Jeep body was given its first coat of green and while she did that, I gave one side of the windscreen its first coat of green. Masking or painting that freehand was still beyond her current skill level. The parts were all placed in the curing cabinet and we left it to do other stuff. Not massive progress, but another step along the road.
  3. The Jerry can on the back was added next and left to dry. The wooden handles of the axe and shovel were also painted and left to bake in my curing cabinet.
  4. After what felt like weeks of inactivity due to school work and other after school activities, my daughter got back to her diorama today. Having given the front of the Jeep a coat of paint last time, we got the headlights cut out and glued into the back of the grill. This would allow the hood and instrument panel to be fitted - almost! The instructions called for the screen arms to be trapped under the hood as it was glued in place, but as it wasn't yet painted and was fragile, I didn't want it fitted just yet. The pivot arms were quite long so I cut them about 1mm shorter and this allowed the screen to be fitted later by stretching the arms around the Jeep body. So with the screen adapted and able to be fitted later after clear coats and decals etc, the way was clear to attach the hood. It was left clamped to dry while we went on a model shop trip for some supplies for other projects. When we got back, we had lunch and then went back out to the workshop. There were some other small parts that needed to be painted, but that I didn't want to attach straight away, so things like the steering wheel, mirror and spare Jerry cans were painted and left to dry.
  5. With the model fixed to the studding, it was slotted into a piece of wood with matching holes which held the model upright. I was then able to position the model over the background picture and while holding the wood still, remove the model. This gave me the drilling position for the mounting holes in the background picture. With the holes drilled, the back of the frame was nailed onto the box frame. The model could then be bolted into the frame. The glass was then cleaned before adding the mount card, glass and front of the frame, which are held on with metal tabs pushed into the box frame and screwed into the frone frame.
  6. The pine box frame was made from some 8mm cladding, cut to a suitable height and mitred at the corners. The Broussard frame can be seen in the corner clamps, and was glued and also uses 'V' nails in the corners to hold the frame together. The deeper frame parts were for the framed Sea King. A closer view of the clamps and the 'V' nails can just be seen in each corner joint.
  7. A couple more pictures of #002 first, before moving on to the frame.
  8. The model sat on its tail again for the fitting of the prop, the second last detail to go on. The last part, yet to be added, is the small black aerial on the fuselage spine. The part is already shaped from a piece of scrap sprue and is painted, just awaiting fitting. The end of the afternoon was nice and bright, so I took the Broussard out doors for a few pictures. After adding the aerial, the final stage will be building the A4 frame and mounting the model.
  9. Today, the engine was painted, all three wheels fitted, the step fitted to the fuselage side and the pitot attahed. There were also a couple of small spots of green to touch up on the ends of the wing struts where they were chamfered for fitting. Almost there now.
  10. We managed a rare free afternoon today and did a little more on the Jeep. The grill was fitted, the gearbox and transfer case levers, and the three seats.The clear headlight moulding was meant to be attached to the grill first, but we left that off. Adding it now would then cause difficulties painting without painting on the clear part. The instrument panel was attached to the hood and then the front end of the Jeep was painted a first coat ( still drying here ). When the paint is dry, the lights can be fitted without needing to repaint around them. Once the lights are fitted, then the hood could be attached.
  11. Wings were first, underside, then top side. Next came a start on the fuselage sides.
  12. Thanks. It's a bit of an unusual one, but very attractive compared to many French designs 😉 All gloss coated and along side an old Airfix Sea King, also to be framed. I started to apply the decals today in addition to painting small parts like the struts, wheels, pitot and prop.
  13. I haven't posted much lately, but Broussard number two had its clear coats applied today.
  14. Attaching the tub to the chassis came next and that's where I spotted a problem. I suggested we glue the chassis rear cross member to the bottom of the tub first and once the glue took hold, then pull the front of the chassis in line with the front fenders. That's when I spotted the bumper at an odd angle. At first, I thought we may have glued a twist into the chassis when attaching the axles. However, closer inspection showed the cross member at the front of the fenders was parallel to the top of the fenders and the axle was also parallel to the chassis front cross member. The twist existed in the chassis moulding ahead of the grill position. I decided my daughter could glue the chassis on regardless, as the majority of the chassis was straight and true. Once the glue was set, I would warm the front chassis leg with a soldering iron to soften it and then straighten the twist. I did that today. Here's the tub and chassis as joined yesterday, prior to straightening the chassis today.
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