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About Army_Air_Force

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    Century Bombers CO

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  • Location
    Washington, UK
  • Interests
    R/C Large Model Aircraft, Military Vehicles, Railroad Modelling, WW2 History, Astronomy

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  1. Almost the end of the session, the other two wheels were glued onto the Jeep and we then left it upside down for the glue joints to fully harden. The spare wheel would be attached later. To finish the afternoon, Dave the driver parked up the Sherman near the cottage while Kevin the commander kept watch. I grabbed a quick photo before they moved on.
  2. I'd been breaking up wood for damaged floor joists and roof beams to be scattered in and around the partially collapsed cottage. I also chopped up some plasticard that had been previously painted to match the cottage roof tiles. These would also be scattered amongst the wreckage.
  3. I'd given the Jeep another coat of clear the day before to seal in the decals already applied after one of the side stars came off while painting the seat cushions. Fortunately the star only made it as far as my finger and was re-attached to the Jeep. Sealing the decals in should help to hold them in place, but I wanted to minimise holding the vehicle, so I set up the Jeep lightly gripped in a mini vice while my daughter glued on the wheels. We opted to angle the front wheels, an option that was possible since I'd opened up the hole in the centre of the wheel. The left two wheels were left to harden a while before turning the Jeep around. While the first wheels were drying, my daughter began painting the barbed wire and road signs.
  4. The tyres had their black paint touched up where they were cut from the sprue and left in the drying cabinet for a while to bake. Once dry, we test fitted the wheels, only to find the axles were a bit big and the holes in the wheels partially filled whith paint. The combination meant the wheels didn't fit well. I had a go at cleaning out the paint with a scalpel tip and tapering the axle stubs, but the fit didn't really improve much. Instead I just used a small drill and opened up the square holes which then gave the required fit. My daughter had been busy cutting out barbed wire, road signs and barrel halves which were then glued together. They would need the ends sanding once the glue hardened up - a job for another day.
  5. We got back to the diorama today. I set my daughter away cutting out the wheels from the sprues, followed by cleaning up flash and cutting out several more accessories. While she did that, I cut some metal rod for poles to support the camo net. I didn't want to rip the netting on the top of the poles while trying to assemble it, so turned some small plastic pads for the top of the poles. These would provide a small pad to glue the net to or at least to support it while the netting was pulled down at its edges. I painted each pole after this piture.
  6. After the star had settled and dried, both registrations were added to the sides of the hood. It was once again set aside, and the first decals were added to the trailer, then that was set aside to dry. We hopped back to the Jeep to add the stars to the sides of the rear of the body and they were left to dry. Back to the trailer again for more decals and then the Jeep again for the front bumper markings. We were so busy, I forgot to get any pictures of the work on the trailer. We ran out of time for any more and it was all left to harden.
  7. The flag decal on the real Jeep has the US flag on one side and on the inner side facing the driver, it has all the instructions for wading the vehicle through water. At this scale, those instructions are far too small to be seen anyway as the flag is only about 1 x 2mm in side. The hood star had ben left to dry a while and was then given a few treatments of Microsol and once more left to dry before we could apply any other decals.
  8. Life has been both busy and difficult over the last few months, meaning the family has had little time for fun. However, mid December, my daughter and I got back to spend a little time on the Jeep. I'd managed to get the Jeep gloss coated some time before so it, and the trailer were ready for decals. The seats still needed painting, but that could be done later. The hood star was the first decal to be applied. The Jeep was set aside and the tiny flag/wading instructions were added to the screen next. I was doing the cutting out with the aid of a watch maker's magnifier and my daughter did the application.Blu-Tac was used to stop the screen from sliding around the table while the decal was prodded and poked into position.
  9. Silver was sprayed on the tail section too. After that had a little time to dry, I filled around the tail glazing joints and also on the fairing at the inner end of the elevator which had a bit of a sink hole.
  10. The rudder leading edge also needed a little filler. It had previously had styrene added to the leading edge. I also gave the ragged sheared metal, where the aircraft was cut, a coat of silver paint. I'll probably use some form of masking fluid randomly along this joint before spraying the top coats.
  11. After a bit of a sanding here and there, I glued the tail gunner's glazing in place. It would require a bit of filling around the fairing joint, which was left until the glazing joint had hardened up. The next step was to add some styrene into the leading edge of the elevators. Both elevators were clamped between some scrap wood to hold everything straight. They also required a little filler. Once dry, the edge will be sanded flat and a new piece of styrene added which will be sanded into the leading edge radius.
  12. I felt the need for a couple of inspirational photos!
  13. It was very cold out in the workshop this morning, but I did a little sanding of the filler applied late last night and got some primer on the tail and waist. The wooden floor in the waist still needs the ends snapping/tearing from the guillotine, but they won't go in until the fuselage is painted. I'm tempted to paint,decal and weather both of these sections before moving on to the rest of the airframe.
  14. The second stabiliser was glued in place and thick tube glue used to do a little gap filling on the underside. I then applied some filler, thinned with a strong acrylic solvent that I normally use for assembling parts. The parts were taped in place to hold it all still while the glue hardens up over night. Here you can see the vertical stab false trailing edge with filler applied and also the fairing leading into the tail gunner's glazing. I'll probably get primer on and check the look of everything before I consider fitting the tail glazing.
  15. The elevator halves were glued together today, but still need a new leading edge fitting and the hinge slots cutting out. The false trailing edge of the stabiliser had previously been filled with styrene, but needed some sanding. It would also need a little filler here and there. A piece of scrap styrene was fitted into the top of the fuselage, under where the rudder sits. After a time to dry, it was trimmed and sanded flush with the top of the fairing that leads into the tail gunner's glazing. The vertical stab false trailing edge was then sanded. After a bit of trimming and sanding of the stab root, the port stab was glued in place and left a while to harden up before moving.
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