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peter havriluk

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About peter havriluk

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  1. Folks, Just started on this project which has a bunch of resin parts to substitute for kit injection-molded plastic. The resin ailerons, elevator, and rudders don't appear to be more detailed or differently shaped than the original plastic parts, so why bother making the substitutions? Am I missing something? Thanks!
  2. I bought this 'white box' model more-or-less forty years ago. Finally speculating about building it, I got to wondering if anyone offers (offered?) an upgrade to the kit, cockpit and wheel wells, for instance, like what I found for my similarly ancient Monogram P-40. Love to have such if it's available. Thanks!
  3. Thanks, sounds good to me. And I already have some RAF 'interior green', too.
  4. Any suggestions as to the colors of the finish inside the cockpit? The Special Hobby assembly drawings call out a bunch of colors which aren't indexed. A SWAG will be gratefully appreciated, too. Thanks!
  5. Thanks, folks. I understand the idea of 'box scale'. Models were made of a size to fit into the standard Monogram box of the day for that (I think) price series. I think I remember that the bigger the box the higher the (premarked) price.
  6. A friend just gave me a NIB kit of the subject. Anyone have any idea of the scale? Box is silent. Maybe 1/28 like the WWI models? Thanks!
  7. That train has left the station. Interior painted, nosewheel well painted, canopy installed before the post above.
  8. That's a dandy start. Thanks! Now I can paint the flight deck and nosewheel well and join up the fuselage. Much obliged.
  9. Thanks! Makes sense. Ultimate top speed can be a useless expense. Just as locking the tailwheels down saved a heap of maintenance and had no effect on mission capability.
  10. Today I started assembly of my 1/48 AMT Gloster meteor(late WW II - - - it came with its own 'buzz bomb'). Had this for forty years! Directions, I don't trust, suggest black interior and wheel wells, and green/gray upper camouflage, lighter gray underneath. questions: (1) is the black appropriate? Otherwise what to paint cabin and wheel wells? and (2) suggestions of Tamiya rattle cans for the grays and green. Thanks Very much!
  11. Didn't see images of the upper wing panels, just the lower ones with the very evident rivets. I think that the preceding Mustang variants had the wings painted with thick primer and block-sanded so as to preserve the fragile laminar airflow over the wings, which I think would obviate rivets being visible. Is that the case on the H-model, too? And I don't know whether the wing lower surfaces got the same fill-and-sand that the upper surfaces did. Any Mustang students out there who can comment?
  12. I think 'mawz' hit on something illustrative of how Mustangs got to Korea and not the better-for-the-mission P-47: The P-47 was marked for deletion as soon as WWII was resolved. Easy to give away stuff you have no intent to use. No mission impact. Seems like the USAF figured they were better off keeping the Mustang than the P-47 and they weren't keeping both of them. My guess.
  13. Agree on the Tamiya tape. I just finished a Hasegawa 1/72 'F' and masked everything quite successfully with Tamiya tape. I think the larger 1/48 models would be even easier.
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