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peter havriluk

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About peter havriluk

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  1. Stefan, thanks for answering. Much obliged.
  2. Just started assembly/painting. There's a good bit of canvas showing, vehicle roofs, seat upholstery. Anybody have a suggestion as to paint color for the fabric? Tamiya offers a 'dark yellow' that might work. Any suggestions? Thanks!
  3. opinion: There was a war on, and the builders of this airplane were on the losing side. Who knows what equipment was installed on any given airplane, when what was wanted was flyable aircraft for immediate use. For myself, I wouldn't be getting worked up about the precise configuration of cockpit equipment that may or may not have been installed on any particular aircraft.
  4. Thanks for the suggestions. I suspect some softeners work better than others on some decal chemistry, and the opposite, too.
  5. Just decorated an Academy 1/72 ambulance, which has large areas covered by red crosses on white backgrounds. The decals seem impervious to Solvaset, which I thought was the gold standard of decal-snuggling solutions. Three questions, 1, are Academy decals known for being impervious to decal-setting solutions, and 2, anything 'better' than Solvaset available, and 3, suggestions on how to encourage Academy decals to settle onto a surface? Thanks!
  6. Anybody have any idea which Tamiya/Testor's spray lacquers come close to Studebaker's 'Coral Red' and 'Ivory Mist'? Thanks!
  7. I can't find a cross-reference to any other paint which does the same job as Humbrol 109 'WWI Blue'. I am not seeking a precise match, but something similar. Any ideas? Thanks!
  8. So far, the advice to spray counterintuitively thin coats has seemed to help. Thanks, folks! Wings tomorrow. Shop rule is to down tools at ten PM, no exceptions. That much works.
  9. The spray yellow was successfully used to paint my prior project (a Williams Brothers Schoenfeldt Firecracker), so I hold few doubts about its quality. The painter, however, is a suspect. Trying again. Stay tuned.
  10. Paint is Tamiya's spray lacquer. And fisheyes in the primer the second time, hence my curiosity about persistent mold release.
  11. Thanks, folks. Yes to the light coats, complete with fisheyes.
  12. Innocent me starts to prime his Williams Brothers' Laird Super Solution. Wipes down the wings, shoots Tamiya rattlecan primer, lets it dry overnight, next day sprays Tamiya rattlecan yellow. Fisheyes in the yellow. Removes it all (spray wet coat of primer, wipe everything off). Once dry, trip to a 12-hour soak in warm water/Dawn. Dry and prime again. Again fisheyes. Suggestions? My advice to myself is to repeat the stripping, clean up the wings, another trip to Dawn/water, dry and wipe down with alcohol and once dry shoot with Humbrol rattlecan acrylic primer. My question, as I've seen this twice on other products, is whether some plastics' mold release can infuse itself in the plastic so that it won't wash out. Advice, comments? Thanks!
  13. Paul, They sure behave like lacquers I've used in other applications, and their behavior is as you stated. I've done a fair bit of lutherie, and lacquers are common finishes just for the characteristics you mentioned, that of the last application 'burning in' and fusing with what is beneath, leaving no discernible layers.
  14. I've had airbrushes of varying sorts for thirty-plus years. And a dedicated compressor. They perform beautifully, all of them. What they don't offer is convenience and are great consumers of time. Setup and knockdown/cleaning takes vastly more time than that is spent applying paint. And they don't make any more time.
  15. Thanks for the insights, folks. I'll have any number of opportunities to work this out (185 in the stash). I can see how I was having problems with the colors that don't like to cover. Heavier applications look to be making my discomforts worse. I do let my primers cook off overnight. Much obliged. And who doesn't like Woodie Guthrie!
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