Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt

peter havriluk

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About peter havriluk

  • Rank
    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)

Recent Profile Visitors

4,059 profile views
  1. So far, the advice to spray counterintuitively thin coats has seemed to help. Thanks, folks! Wings tomorrow. Shop rule is to down tools at ten PM, no exceptions. That much works.
  2. The spray yellow was successfully used to paint my prior project (a Williams Brothers Schoenfeldt Firecracker), so I hold few doubts about its quality. The painter, however, is a suspect. Trying again. Stay tuned.
  3. Paint is Tamiya's spray lacquer. And fisheyes in the primer the second time, hence my curiosity about persistent mold release.
  4. Thanks, folks. Yes to the light coats, complete with fisheyes.
  5. Innocent me starts to prime his Williams Brothers' Laird Super Solution. Wipes down the wings, shoots Tamiya rattlecan primer, lets it dry overnight, next day sprays Tamiya rattlecan yellow. Fisheyes in the yellow. Removes it all (spray wet coat of primer, wipe everything off). Once dry, trip to a 12-hour soak in warm water/Dawn. Dry and prime again. Again fisheyes. Suggestions? My advice to myself is to repeat the stripping, clean up the wings, another trip to Dawn/water, dry and wipe down with alcohol and once dry shoot with Humbrol rattlecan acrylic primer. My question, as I've seen this twice on other products, is whether some plastics' mold release can infuse itself in the plastic so that it won't wash out. Advice, comments? Thanks!
  6. Paul, They sure behave like lacquers I've used in other applications, and their behavior is as you stated. I've done a fair bit of lutherie, and lacquers are common finishes just for the characteristics you mentioned, that of the last application 'burning in' and fusing with what is beneath, leaving no discernible layers.
  7. I've had airbrushes of varying sorts for thirty-plus years. And a dedicated compressor. They perform beautifully, all of them. What they don't offer is convenience and are great consumers of time. Setup and knockdown/cleaning takes vastly more time than that is spent applying paint. And they don't make any more time.
  8. Thanks for the insights, folks. I'll have any number of opportunities to work this out (185 in the stash). I can see how I was having problems with the colors that don't like to cover. Heavier applications look to be making my discomforts worse. I do let my primers cook off overnight. Much obliged. And who doesn't like Woodie Guthrie!
  9. That's a general title, for sure. I'm trying to generate a solution to a problem I'm seeing when doing a Tamiya rattle-can finish. The immediate problem is typical, the colors change but the problem does not: White primer on a gray plastic airframe. Follow with color coat (yellow!). Results: color coat melts into its primer and leaves the plastic showing around sharp edges, like aileron cutouts and elevator/fuselage joints. No amount of recoating will cover those joints with yellow, gray always shows through. And primers are nearly always lacquers. Ideas, solutions, experience? The only way I've had some success is to use a dissimilar primer that the color can't eat, like waterbased acrylic. My problem with that is the only rattle-can acrylic primer I have is a rapidly-diminishing can of Humbrol. Thanks!
  10. I've assembled two Heller models, a 1/72 Vought Corsair and a 1/48 Piper L-4. Both seem small for their age...the Corsair engine is smaller in diameter by a whole lot compared to a Matchbox Hellcat with the same Pratt & Whitney radial, and the Piper sure seems smaller than it should be when sitting next to a 1/48 Cessna Bird dog. Am I missing something, or did Heller run to 1/75 and 1/50 scales? Or so?
  11. I have no idea of which aircraft, at which point in its life, was painted with which paint. There was a war on, and I think getting equipment into usable condition would trump artistic niceties any time. I think a modeler's best SWAG makes as much sense as anything else. My opinion alone. But I've painted a bunch of GI vehicles 'in the field' with the best OD I could mix up myself. Nobody got out a color chart to judge.
  12. Offhand,, I can't see why the bomb bay would be bare metal while other panels were primed. I'm sure photographs of in-service B-25's would solve some of these questions. I've spent a fair bit of time working on EAA's B-25, and all the interior surfaces are painted, but this airplane is far removed from its original military life.
  13. In a fit of weakness (never graze online when the baseball game goes south) yesterday I bought one of these to keep my other air racers company. I can't find reviews of it online, so I'm asking the group for their experiences with this one. I've built a bunch of other Williams Brothers racers (Gee Bee R-1, Gee Bee R-2, Weddell-Williams, Caudron, Seversky p-35). Also asking what is a good red rattle can shade to paint the thing. Thanks!
  14. I've got some Tamiya acrylic 'flat earth'. Any idea if that would be a believable brown for the upper surfaces? And the green, suggestions from the Tamiya acrylic palette (with which I was extensively gifted)? Thanks very much.
  • Create New...