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peter havriluk

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About peter havriluk

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  1. peter havriluk

    Polishing over raised rivets

    That'll teach me to assume that the model was 1/72. It makes a difference, for sure, but I'm still of the opinion (and the word is opinion) that any rivets will be invisible on a model viewed from 2 feet away at its scale.
  2. peter havriluk

    1/48 US Army L-19 decorations wanted

    Henry, thanks for following up. I think I found that in-service equipment was painted a whole lot more casually than modelers, as a group, appreciate. Field-level maintenance and what's implied by that.
  3. peter havriluk

    Polishing over raised rivets

    Seeing as the rivets are all but undetectable standing right up next to a fullscale airplane, how can they be seen on something 1/72 of its size? For example, if a rivet head is .375" (3/8"), then a model of it is 1/72 of that, about four thousandths of an inch. And OP is talking about what I'm guessing is a flush-riveted airliner. A nominal viewing distance of two feet from the model would put the observer 144 scale feet away from the airplane. I don't see any rivets on anything from 144 feet. Just a thought...
  4. peter havriluk

    Best Luftwaffe references?

    This is one of those questions which are asked of two people and which get four different answers. Start somewhere, maybe with the Squadron/Signal 'in action' or 'walkaround' books. There's hundreds of choices.
  5. peter havriluk

    workflow improvement

    And how would that make building go faster?
  6. peter havriluk

    workflow improvement

    Paint masks can, indeed, reduce time spent at paint prep. Sometimes, a lot. I do squirm, though (cheapskate alert) at spending sometimes more than what I paid for a kit for the canopy/wheel masks. I did find that a surprising number of 1/72 wheels can be masked with Tamiya paper tape masks made by taking a paper punch to the tape and using the punch-out for the wheel mask. Can't get wheel masks much cheaper than that.
  7. peter havriluk

    1/48 US Army L-19 decorations wanted

    Thanks, Henry. Maybe you can dredge your memory as to how the interiors of OD L-19's were painted during your Fort Hood days? The kit painting instructions are for all gray SEA aircraft, which does me not much good. Any advice is greatly appreciated. And i'm building shelf models for my own satisfaction, so FS numbers are overkill, but general comments would be really helpful. Thanks!
  8. peter havriluk

    1/48 US Army L-19 decorations wanted

    Henry, thanks for the suggestion. For some reason, your comments just showed up today (one month less a day after your message was timestamped). I'd previously bought a set of Beaver US Army decals, and for my shelf-model purposes, I think they will do the job I wanted. Much obliged.
  9. peter havriluk

    Messerschmitt BF109E-4/7 Trop Question

    My response was oriented around Tamiya being self-referential about paint colors. I think Airfix does something similar. We are left to guess what Tamiya's colors match in standard references, RLM for Luftwaffe, FS for US services. I certainly hold no hope that Tamiya would mention a competitor's finishes, and I agree with OP that we are left to our own devices if we want to use paints by matching them to a prototypical standard. I found conversion charts on the IPMS Stockholm web site, so that we could search a spreadsheet for one of the RLM colors and the hobby paints that match the standard are listed.
  10. peter havriluk

    Messerschmitt BF109E-4/7 Trop Question

    I doubt that Tamiya would cite its competitors' paints in the color instructions for their model kits. They're in the business of peddling just about everything to assemble and paint a model, in addition to the model itself.
  11. peter havriluk

    Hobbycraft 1/44 B-36 - what type of plastic

    Folks are addressing the model to resolve gluing problems. I think something can be learned by addressing the glue. Kits have lots of scrap in them, I suggest trying various glues on the scrap until something works to the builder's satisfaction. After the bath.
  12. peter havriluk

    workflow improvement

    Steve, thanks for the wonderful links. The relaxed standards make a lot of sense, some of which I'd been already practicing. Instead of black, I'd been applying 'interior green', and I then found that RAF dark green, I don't remember the shade's name, comes from a rattle can and saves a whole lot of time, similar to your rattle-can black. I'd been wondering about all that stenciling, nice to see a realistic view of it expressed. I got the sense that nicely painted on the outside shelf models are a goal, one which I share. I could never figure out the allure of spending thirty bucks on resin parts for a ten-dollar kit, nice to know I'm not alone. Much obliged for the encouragement and confirmation.
  13. peter havriluk

    paint stripper?

    Thanks, folks. For sure, the operative idea is to do no harm to plastics...
  14. peter havriluk

    paint stripper?

    Any better paint strippers out there better than (all I could think of) brake fluid? Alcohol? Dedicated hobby products? Any brand names of specialized products would be wonderful. Same for comments on general types (like alcohol, brake fluid). Thanks very much.
  15. peter havriluk

    workflow improvement

    Jon, that's a wonderful summary. Thank you. And it sure sounds familiar. Very familiar. I've done a lot of what you suggested, lacquers, quiet compressor, simplified interiors. Rattle cans help, too. Easy cleanup, just put the can away. I need to adapt to 'superglue', I've used it extensively for r/c projects, but not for display models. Today's trip to the hobby store will attend to that missing link.
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