The ejection seat handles were first airbrushed yellow, then after it had cured, I hand painted the black stripes with a small bristle brush. Nothing too hard, really. The rubber seal is nothing tricky, either. When I mask the canopies before the camo is applied, I apply the masking tape along the inside edge of the seal (i.e., the edge that touches the glass portion). Once the camo paint has dried, I apply another strip of masking tape along the outside edge of the seal, so that only the seal area is exposed. Then I airbrush the seal area with Radome Tan (no other reason for this color other than the fact that I think it's a good color for the seal). The outer edge mask is then removed (leaving the mask on the clear sections intact), then the model is weathered, decaled, and flat coated. Remove the masks on the clear portions, and you're done. Very simple (it would have to be simple for me to handle it). ;)/>
Mike, my plan is to write an article for ARC sometime soon. I'll have more extensive pic's for that. As far as the Isracast set is concerned, the best word to describe it is "crude". The rivet detail is WAY overdone; the holes are too big. I actually filled them all in with Zap-A-Gap, then redrilled them with a .3mm drill bit. The actuator arms and braces that hold the outer slat in place are very badly misshapen, and I had to sand those down to a more realistic size and shape. The set is a good starting point to convert the wings, but at $45 U.S., I have to say that it's a little bit overpriced.
Again, thank you all for the compliments. I really appreciate them!!! :D/>