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About johnnymac

  • Rank
    The flogging will continue until morale improves.
  • Birthday 09/27/1963

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  • Location
    Massachusetts, USA
  • Interests
    1/32 scale U.S. jets

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  1. I already installed the rest of the clear parts, but I somehow lost the sprue that has the two canopy options. I would take either option if any of you have built this kit and happened to keep the spare. I'm happy to pay. Thanks in advance! John
  2. Jakub, I finished the kit a couple of months ago. I couldn't find a definitive answer for the paints, so I used Model Master 1742 Tan and 2136 US Gulf Armor Sand on the top surfaces, and 1728 Lt. Ghost Gray on the undersides. They look correct to me.
  3. I'm getting ready to start the 1/32 Kitty Hawk OV-10D kit, and I'm planning on finishing it in the tan/brown VMO-2 Desert Storm camo scheme that's depicted on the box. Does anyone know the correct FS paint numbers for the tan and brown upper surfaces and the grey undersides? Thanks in advance, John
  4. Here's a 1/32 Academy F/A-18C I did a few years back:
  5. Placed my order on Tuesday, and I received the set yesterday!!! Talk about fast service!!! Anyway, the set is GORGEOUS!!! I can't WAIT to dig into it. :D/>
  6. I'm looking for two sets of bomb rack parts from the Trumpeter 1/32 Tomcat F-14D kit: Parts W6(x2), W7(x2), and W3(x4). These are the racks that fit on the Phoenix missile pallets. I am willing to buy or trade; I have a boat load of 1/32 weapons in my stash if a trade is preferred. Thanks in Advance! John
  7. I cannot wait to buy a set!!!
  8. Thank you gentlemen!! I truly appreciate your posts. It was a VERY fun build. :)/>
  9. Hey Johnny I got a project for ya... You gotta do one of those really nice Japanese F-4E's in the blue paintscheme. That would be SWEET in 1/32.

  10. If anyone has a junked Tamiya F-14 Tomcat in 1/32 scale and is willing to "part" (no pun intended) with the wing parts, I would be willing to pay or trade for them. Thanks! John
  11. The ejection seat handles were first airbrushed yellow, then after it had cured, I hand painted the black stripes with a small bristle brush. Nothing too hard, really. The rubber seal is nothing tricky, either. When I mask the canopies before the camo is applied, I apply the masking tape along the inside edge of the seal (i.e., the edge that touches the glass portion). Once the camo paint has dried, I apply another strip of masking tape along the outside edge of the seal, so that only the seal area is exposed. Then I airbrush the seal area with Radome Tan (no other reason for this color other than the fact that I think it's a good color for the seal). The outer edge mask is then removed (leaving the mask on the clear sections intact), then the model is weathered, decaled, and flat coated. Remove the masks on the clear portions, and you're done. Very simple (it would have to be simple for me to handle it). ;)/> Mike, my plan is to write an article for ARC sometime soon. I'll have more extensive pic's for that. As far as the Isracast set is concerned, the best word to describe it is "crude". The rivet detail is WAY overdone; the holes are too big. I actually filled them all in with Zap-A-Gap, then redrilled them with a .3mm drill bit. The actuator arms and braces that hold the outer slat in place are very badly misshapen, and I had to sand those down to a more realistic size and shape. The set is a good starting point to convert the wings, but at $45 U.S., I have to say that it's a little bit overpriced. Again, thank you all for the compliments. I really appreciate them!!! :D/>
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