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wm_cheng

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About wm_cheng

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    Toronto, Canada

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  1. Well the kit could be $30 if you lived in Japan, but with shipping (only available through couriers like UPS, FedEx, DHL) nowadays during the pandemic, that tacks on another $20-30usd and if you live in Canada, there's courier brokerage fees and customs and duties that tacks on another $20-$30. Mine arrived after $25 shipping + $26 brokerage fee and customs just for a $30 model!
  2. What are those metallic decals for the engine metal sections? Are there links to where those are sold?
  3. I am laying it over a gloss coat of Future. When its new, it pulls in by capillary action, very smooth, but now that its old and I added water to it to try to thin it a bit, it tends to bead up on the glossy Future and I have to work the pigments into the panel lines a bit more, sometimes it beads and creates a empty spot in the panel lines where I have to go over it again afterwards. It still works, just not as nicely as it once did when the Flory Washes were newly arrived.
  4. Thank you for all your helpful comments and links to photos. Well, I found a bunch of photos showing the AIM-120C inboard as well and I prefer the longer missiles inside of the shorter ones - I just think it goes with the angle of the wings aesthetically. I'm glad it seems to work both ways and I didn't make any obvious mistakes by gluing them this way. I think I can call this puppy done. Quick notes, tonnes of mistakes in G.W.H. instructions but nothing really beats that amazing surface detailing in 1/72 scale, horrible thick decals and wrong grey color print (use 3
  5. Yes, I've been to their site, that's why I started to add water when it began to thicken up, but it just won't mix as smoothly as the new one. I'll take a picture to show, it clumps up very small/tiny pigments, instead of being like a smooth watered down paint when it was new. I got the big box that included 8 bottles a few years ago, and they have all become like that now. I re-purchased the black and it great new. I tried everything, but the SS balls (which I don't have any), I stirred and shook till my arms fell off. I just used room temperature water, not warm though, but it wouldn't
  6. I tried water it just makes it clumpy, very small clumps, but I can see the individual pigment. I've shook it and shook it and still couldn't get it to mix, but I haven't tried BB balls in the containers though. My new bottles and old are like night and day.
  7. Great! Thanks, I tend to like the longer missile inside and the shorter one outside asthetically... I just didn't want to break any rules for my era stationed in Japan. Also these are marked as live munitions on my decals and most of the references I see are either dummies or blue striped training missiles.
  8. Hi there, I'm building the G.W.H. 1/72 F-15C 44th Fighter Squad. (box supplied decals - I would not recommend them, if I knew they were printed in the wrong shades of grey I would have gone 3rd party/aftermarket - plus they are way too thick). I don't know where to mount the AIM-9X and AIM-120C missiles on top of the tank. The instructions call for the AIM-9X to be inboard and the longer AIM-120C to be outboard (but there are so many mistakes in the instructions already and I've already been burned following GWH instructions on my F-14A build - so I tend not to trust t
  9. Hi there, I love using Flory Weathering Wash to panel line my aircraft models. However after they have been sitting around for a while, they tend to thicken up. I've tried adding water (as I'm told they are clay based) and even some dish detergent to break the surface tension but it just never like getting a new bottle. Is there some secret to thinning that stuff out to get the original consistency again? Whenever I add water with a touch of soap, the pigments/clay just clumps up and doesn't flow like it used to. Thanks.
  10. Yes! Are there substantial differences in instrumentation between the E/EJ and the F-4J? Will this fit the F-4J cockpit or will there be a dedicated set for that as well?
  11. Are there any good aftermarket PE (cockpit and canopy rails/mirrors/edging) & resin (seats) upgrades for this kit yet?
  12. I'm thinking I need the canopy rails/lugs and the canopy frames with the pulls and mirrors - none of that is represented in the Tamiya model. I need the ladder (the Tamiya doesn't even have the holes - a bit embarassing for 1/48!) forward gear door punch through grills and the afterburner interior. Already that's more than the price of buying them separately. Where did you get this deal off eBay - any more I can buy? I have to say I'm a little disappointed with the mold details/rivets on the Tamiya at 1/48 - I thought it would be insanely detailed. I'm sure the fit and finish i
  13. Thanks so much everyone, @phantom I was wondering why my search didn't turn up many build threads here in the Jet Modeling forum (sorry I originally just have a link saved to my browser directly here - I didn't know about the Group Builds threads until you mentioned it and I had to back up to the forum top page to find it). I will scour through those with great interest! @markiii I really want to see this Quinta stuff for myself in person (thanks for the recommendation over Eduard - that was exactly what I was looking for). I'm definitely not crewing this one (made th
  14. Oh, I didn't even think about the wheels?!?! I usually like to go all out when I can. I'd love to see your build.
  15. Hi all, Even though its out of my usual 1/72 scale, I found a Tamiya 1/48 F-14 for a price that was too good to pass up. I'm look for suggestions for the best aftermarket upgrade parts for this kit. I'm looking for your suggestions on the best quality or newest tooling/best detail. I'm looking at the new 3D cockpit decals (never used them before, only PE parts) but what's the difference between Quinta & Eduard Look/Space? Anyone who has actually seen both can make a recommendation between the two? https://quinta-studio.com/en/product/201/ https://www.ed
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