Karl Sander

I'm sure the splinter scheme must have been very hard but it turned out very well!! Nice job!! :lol:

So, I've already got the "color" parts done, since I didn't think it would be wise to do the bare metal parts first then mask them. I plan to "prime" the area to be bare metal with gloss black (I think I read that tip in a post from Steve Filak) the airbrush it with Model Master's Metalizers. My question for you guys is this - it occured to me to give the color coats a shot of Future first, then (after the Future cures), mask and do my gloss black and metalizer. My thought is, if I get any black or metalizer creeping under the tape, I can clean it off cured Future a lot easier than I could

I use Future for gloss and Testors acryl flat over model masters enamels and Floquil Reefer White (for landing gear, ordnance, etc) and have had no problems with yellowing. Just make sure you leave plenty of time for the enamels to cure really well before you put anything overthem - otherwise some of the "stuff" that gets released in the curing process will be trapped and I've read that is what contributes to yellowing. 48 hours is a good ballpark figure, another rule of thumb I've heard is that when it doesn't smell like paint anymore, it's cured.... :lol:

Found mine at Ace Hardware...

I spray the hub color (usually white for what I model...) then brush Model Master Aircraft Interior Black. Hadn't thought of using future as a barrier though - that's a great idea from Steve and I'll definitely be giving it a shot!!

I wouldn't use the milk containers for solvents. Motor oil is one thing but thinners and the like are likely to eat right through the degradable milk container. The "tub" I use is the kind of canister sports nutrition stuff comes in from GNC. The plastic has so far stood up well and I've been using the same one for over a year and a half. I think the same sort of plastic is used in liquid laundry detergent bottles.

Once upon a time I wanted to switch completely to acrylics - with the plan of using up all my enamels. Nowadays I find myself still buying enamels.... AND acrylics. Right now, the tendency I have developed (purely by accident) is to use acryl for most of my smaller applications - i.e. cockpits, seats, etc and enamels for the main colors. So far in my growing airbrushing experience, I get more consistent results that way - though that being said, if I need a color and have an acrylic one handy I'm not afraid to shoot it either (especially since there's no real convenient hobby shop around)

Floquil Reefer White is the ONLY white I'll airbrush. Even if I plan on using acrylics later on in the same project (no, no, stay with me on this one...) When I start a plane kit, one of the very first things I do, at the same time as building up the cockpit, is spray the landing gear struts, wheel wells, whatever, with the Reefer White. With as long as it takes me to build, the paint will be completely cured and compatible with whatever I put over the top of it - another brand of enamel, an acrylic, Future, what have you. Now, if you're one of them who can do a kit in a weekend, this migh

I also really like using Blue Tac for the wheel wells, intakes, etc...

That's great! Thanks!!! ;)

any chance you can get your mitts on a CO2 cylinder? I know, a bit of a longshot. I'm racking my brain to remember if Ali Al Salem's mess hall had a fountain when I diverted there, or if it was cans from the cooler like in Bagram.... Not surprisingly I'm drawing a blank... In all seriousness I've heard folks say they've had good results with CO2 cylinders, though I have no earthly idea if they're available... Stay safe...

Good luck with the airbrush... But more important, stay safe!!!

Big fan of coating it with Future first. I also mask each portion separately, I find I get better results doing that than if I mask all of it then cut out what I want to be painted.

Nice work!!

Goodness knows I never have looked back ! The stuff is great. Though, as I unpacked from my move (yay, the workbench is up and running again!!!) I came across a couple bottles of MM Acryl flat white, and being reluctant to throw anything away, I'm wondering just what I'll do with them. :blink: If nothing else I'm set for like the next 5 years of dry-brushing..... :P

CA holds well in my experience... and when there's more than one item going in close proximity, I give it enough time to set up (or a shot of accelerator), that way it doesn't get disturbed when I install the next one.

Brush painting with white is so hard I gave it up even before I bought an airbrush! I would use Krylon on struts, gear wells and the like before assembly. After assembly, struts and ordnance I'd leave off, then mask off the wells for body painting. It worked pretty well. I've not had Reefer White attack the plastic, but I've never put it on very thick. If you DID lay it on thick, my guess is you'd have some issues.

Not being in Britain, I've got no knowlege of Halford's personally, but if you're stateside, I'm willing to bet Krylon would be relatively similar. I used that for quite a while before I got an airbrush - make sure you put it on in thin coats because if it gets too thick it will attack the plastic. Now, I airbrush Floquil Reefer White. Coats well without a primer. Look for it in the model railroad section of the hobby shop (or a dedicated model railroad store). I think it might also be available from Squadron. It's a bit strong, so good ventilation is more than just a "nice to have"! But

By all means weather away on that Tomcat - the boat is a dirty place for planes! Some folks here on ARC have done a really swell job replicating the blotchy finish navy aircraft aquire as the corrosion control shop strives to keep ahead of the sea air. I'm going to experiement with it myself soon - would look really great on a Tomcat, as they've got so much surface area! As soon as I figure out how to do it, I'll be sure to share

I apply Future full strength, no thinning. After I apply decals, I put on another coat of Future to protect the decals. To make my wash, I take an acrylic color like dark gray (for use on most base colors - the darker the basecoat, the darker the gray used - and I almost never use black!), water, and a little dish soap. Then using a really old, thick brush I just glop it on where I want it. It's OK to be sloppy. When it has just barely started to set up, use a Q-tip to wipe excess off. It should come off the Future relatively easily, and remain in the panel lines. You can clear it all awa

Before decals I airbrush Future full strength in several light coats. I put on another coat of Future over the decals to facilitate my weathering with a sludge wash. Then I airbrush Testors Modyl Master's Clear Acryl Flat (or Acryl Clear Flat, whatever the heck it's called). Also full strength.