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Pruz

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Everything posted by Pruz

  1. There was definitely a Coors variant as well, it's in John Brennan's Nose Art book vol. 1 Definitely the best option! Al
  2. Great job! You got a superb model, and added all the atmosphere. Al
  3. Can't, as in OPSEC or lack of info? Thanks for clarifying the air-to-air anyway!
  4. Rubber's fine. Mine have lasted 6 years in the attic and unheated outside shed and still look fine :) Painted the hubs with acrylics, if that makes any difference? Al
  5. What A-to-A weapons do the Saudi Typhoons carry? IRIS-T and AMRAAM? Are they likely to order Meteor? I also read this week they were rushing to implement their air-to-ground capability with the Tranche 2 aircraft - what do they want to drop? What targeting equipment will they be using? Thanks in advance, Al
  6. Sure it does. It has simulation modes for radar guided attacks, and can carry the IR-homing version as it still has IRST cueing. It's not combat capable with the R-27R, but it sure can carry them. Al
  7. I'd like to express my appreciation for the MiG-29 correction set Chris. Finished product! I'll admit I wasn't sure it fit correctly when I first cut plastic, but I saw the craftwork of the intake fit and how it transformed the look of the kit I can't speak highly enough. I also think the actual resin pieces are the best I've ever worked with. Your sets aren't cheap, but they represent good value for the discerning modelmaker :thumbsup:/> Al
  8. Great to see this built! A fantastic looking rendition of an airplane we all wish could have been real. Congratulations, and glad you're enjoying the hobby too! Al
  9. Hi Folks! Due to extended sick leave I was able to build this very nice kit - the 1/32 Revell MiG-29UB. I was very impressed with the quality of the kit, considering it's a 1991 release - I think it's better quality and a far better fit than the same company's Tornado and Typhoon kits released decades later. I added the Zactomodels correction and upgrade set (although it cost 3x more than the kit cost!) If you read the build thread, you can see I thought it was going to be trouble, but in fact it was a fantastic bit of resin engineering, and I take my hat off to Chris (aka Zactoman) for an e
  10. Wow. You really paid attention to the note about heavy weathering! It looks very authentic, superb work. Al
  11. Wow, thanks very much Chuck! Your Tamiya build was a huge inspiration to finish this. High praise indeed. Al
  12. Thanks a lot, sorry for being rude and not replying! Here's a pic of her at our club, taking the coveted Second Place Award in 1/32!!! Gary, good to see you are using the Flightpath set too, it should look amazing when you're done with it. I'm sure you are finding that the toughest part is getting the parts off the fret without deforming them, and following the instructions!! Al
  13. Wow that looks like it might just take-off! Great Spit. Al
  14. Good start, that's a lot of plastic! Al
  15. Three pages full and he hasn't even started yet! This is worse than the build-up to the Superbowl! But I'm really looking forward to this one Chuck!
  16. Hey guys, thanks very much for the encouraging replies. I kinda got bored with posting in-prog pics (sorry!!) after the decals disaster, so I just got on with finishing it. A real labour of love like most Revell big-scale aircraft, phinally phinished with phlaws!! Only the second model I've completed this year, but one of my part-built shelf-sitters since 2008 completed at last! Al PS. Just found the nose gear door on the floor after taking these pics!!!! D'oh!
  17. Thanks very much for looking in you guys! Anyway.... decals! I hate them!!!!! The sharkmouth looks cool though! I used a combination of AirDoc (unit markings and insignia), IsraDecal (stencils), and the kit decals (bad mistake ). I prepared the surface with Testors Glosscote and Klear. I reckon 90% of the decals silvered, and predominantly those on the dark green paint. I used MicroSet and Sol and ended up having to butcher practically ever decal and stencil and slather them in MicroSol to get rid of the silvering. Some were unfortunately irretrievable but most were thankfully on
  18. Not just a stunning and expert model, but you've given us a reference thread to satisfy any modeller seeking to build an F-4E of this vintage. Thank you for sharing your expertise and its been a great build to follow. Al
  19. While all that was drying, I got on with some more of this marvellous Flightpath PE: Before and after! The soft Korean plastic of the kit lends itself really well to superdetailing. The moulded detail usually just wipes off with a light scraping from a flat-blade knife. Unlike the stubborn Germanic plastic of Revell Germany offerings! The gear doors and new white metal wheels courtesy of the Flightpath. It all went together very easily. Next up: pylons, tanks and ECM pod. Cheers for looking, Al
  20. Not great pics I'm afraid, but shows at least the main paintjob went well! The wraparound SEA camouflage wasn't in service long before the change to Euro 1, but looks very flashy! I used Tamiya rattle can colours, and then WEM enamels to fade and break up the colours and feather the edges of the camo. Job well done I reckon! Leads me to realise an easy way of breaking up colours, rather varying mixed shades of colours etc, is simply to go over the colour areas with another manufacturer's paint of the same alleged shade. They are NEVER exactly the same, and always produce a pleasing cou
  21. Thanks for your comments folks! That was a very long coffee break (Oct 5 2011!) So I've picked this up again, and we've been filling and sanding, and here's the state of play so far: The monster is assembled, after working on 1/700 ships for a while this is a big piece of plastic! I painted the area behind the intake ramps (bright idea, wish Id thought of it). Added the PE slime lights and wing fences, and due to the complex Flightpath wheel wells, the gear is obviously fitted prior to painting. Sprayed and masked off the metalwork at the rear end. Also cut out the outboard flapero
  22. Excellent work, Chuck, almost too good to be just a model! A fine reference work on the USAFE Phantom of that era too, well done and good luck with it, worth a few gongs I'm sure! Al
  23. Thanks for looking in. I measured back from the panel line where the hinge panel is on the Revell kit. On the AMS nose you can see this panel is included. The approximate line of the cut is exactly where the second rivet line goes around the chin fairing for the M61. If you look at the MIDAS diffuser, the second row of rivets back from where it attaches to the kit nose gives you your approximate cut line. You need to cut along the forward edge of the nose panel line that runs up over the nose from that rivet line. You can see the lines I mean in this pic:
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