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1/72 Airfix Su-27


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Great progress, I am eagerly looking forward to your next posts on this Flanker!

Any updates on if Voyager will release the resin set you mastered to the general public?

Thanks,

-Hoops

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Hello Yufei, I am glad that you are feeling a little better.

The work that you are doing on your Flanker is very good. This should be giving you alot of practice before you begin your "big bird".

With all of the additional detail you are adding the finished article will be unrecognisable from the base kits you started with.

This is getting better each time you update your progress.

Please keep it up.

B)

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Some new updates,guys!I spent 2 hours a day after my work on the landing gears,and finally finished them yeasterday night.

Well,I do think modelling is quite tough for salaryman such as me especailly when I have to work untill 21:00 almost everyday.

So I really get quite quick progress,huh?

OK,move to the topic.This time I used the Equipage wheels.

Incredible details both on tyres and wheel kees,quite impressed!

But for the rubber tyre,the biggest problem is the harding lines.

I would recommend every one who wanna deal with such things by your electric tools,which is the only way for me.

(Hand-sanding rubber is just wasting time,IMHO)

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The white metal parts from Hasegawa have sharp details.I think they are the top class in white metal ones.

But I would just use some of the parts and I didn't want to waste the origianl Hasegawa kit,I got some resin copies from my friend.

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As for wheel folk,the shape and details of Airfix part seems more correct.

But still need some extra-work before using.

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Main gears.Some piping and detailing works according to the Flanker DVD.

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Nose gear.The main part was from Hasegawa copy,wheel folk from Airfix while others all scratch-built.

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Edited by haneto
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Mud guard was made by Evergreen 0.13mm plastic card while the curved surface by brass PE inside with sanded putty outside.

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Compared with Hasegawa metal part.

It's quite clear for you to discover the incorrect area on Hsegawa part:

1.The struction is fully extended so that the nose gear is too long.

2.Mud guard is the very eraly type which you can hardly find even in the early production Flankers.

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These THREE parts cost me a whole weekend and 5 working days' nights,just worn out......

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To be continued......

Edited by haneto
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As the Flickr web albumn seems to have some problems in China(I can upload and login,but just cannot see the pics!),I have to use my imagebucket account,which has not been active for a long long time......

Hope Flickr can get recovered ASAP,or I'll have to re-upload all my pics to imagebucket...... :rofl:

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Thank you for all of your nice comments,guys!

That really rocks! :blink:

Any updates on if Voyager will release the resin set you mastered to the general public?

Thanks,

-Hoops

Well,I hope they have some extra time to do this job as they are extremely busy with their owm business and OEMs......One day I'll make them make some sets,won't be many though...... :rofl:

If only any one has the equipments......

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Damn, man! Those landing gear struts have TOO much detail in this scale! :rofl:

How do you manage to attach all those tiny little f***ers without losing your nerves? I'm talking about your pipe work. That's my eternal problem, when detailing landing gears. Should one have very fast drying CA glue?

I'm very impressed. VERY.

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Damn, man! Those landing gear struts have TOO much detail in this scale! :blink:

How do you manage to attach all those tiny little f***ers without losing your nerves? I'm talking about your pipe work. That's my eternal problem, when detailing landing gears. Should one have very fast drying CA glue?

I'm very impressed. VERY.

Well,what I can say is just "I've been used to that" :rofl:

Really,those tiny parts cost your nerves and energy,and even may hurt your eyes.

So maybe I won't try those skills in 1/72 scale,as I still want to keep my eyes young(I'm only 25 this year! :) )

As for the glue,I use the LOCTITE jelly glue,which is quite cheap(About 2 USD Dollar one bottle here) and effective.Highly recommended!

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Well,what I can say is just "I've been used to that" ;)

Well, seems that we both like all those tiny little details! :beer4: I really fancy your detail work, Yufei!

Really,those tiny parts cost your nerves and energy,and even may hurt your eyes.

So maybe I won't try those skills in 1/72 scale,as I still want to keep my eyes young(I'm only 25 this year! :) )

As for the glue,I use the LOCTITE jelly glue,which is quite cheap(About 2 USD Dollar one bottle here) and effective.Highly recommended!

I really like to detail the landing gears of my models, but everytime I start to attach all those hydraulic lines and electric wires, they just bounce off from the other end as I'm gluieng the other. The problem with metal wire is that there always seems to be tension in them, you know like in a metal spring, so it's very hard for me to get them to stay where I'd like them to stay. A thicker CA glue might be a good idea.

In 1/72nd scale this kind of super detailing truly makes you blind some day! :)

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AMAZING!

I really don´t understand how you can possibly shape all those microscopic pieces...

I also work 99% of the time with 1/72 models and know how hard it can be to add all the smallest details.

I would appreciate very much if you'd like to show us some step-by-step tips that you use in your builds.

/Kristian

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Thanks a lot for your comments!

I think every modeler has his own advantage,while mine is making those details in small scale.

So maybe in a bigger scale,my work will only be quite ordinary. :pray:

I really like to detail the landing gears of my models, but everytime I start to attach all those hydraulic lines and electric wires, they just bounce off from the other end as I'm gluieng the other. The problem with metal wire is that there always seems to be tension in them, you know like in a metal spring, so it's very hard for me to get them to stay where I'd like them to stay. A thicker CA glue might be a good idea.

In 1/72nd scale this kind of super detailing truly makes you blind some day! :D

Yep,I do understand!I usually use brass rods for 1/72 piping because of the size.

Before applying the brass rod,I'll heat the rod by a zippo slightly.(Not too long time or the brass will melt!)

That helps a lot to decrease the metal sping effect.

Have a try. :worship:

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AMAZING!

I really don´t understand how you can possibly shape all those microscopic pieces...

I also work 99% of the time with 1/72 models and know how hard it can be to add all the smallest details.

I would appreciate very much if you'd like to show us some step-by-step tips that you use in your builds.

/Kristian

Thanks man!I really wanna make a step-by-step tips but there's a big problem——no one can take photos for me as I live alone! :worship:

So just wish me getting married ASAP!? :D

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but everytime I start to attach all those hydraulic lines and electric wires, they just bounce off from the other end as I'm gluieng the other. The problem with metal wire is that there always seems to be tension in them, you know like in a metal spring, so it's very hard for me to get them to stay where I'd like them to stay. A thicker CA glue might be a good idea.

... or you could change the type of wire you're using. Have you ever tried to use solder (used for soldering electronic components) ? This stuff is not rigid and elastic.

Sanding rubber tires: Kotey posted a tip a long time ago. Simply put the rubber parts in the freezer before sanding them.

Edited by Laurent
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... or you could change the type of wire you're using. Have you ever tried to use solder (used for soldering electronic components) ? This stuff is not rigid and elastic.

Sanding rubber tires: Kotey posted a tip a long time ago. Simply put the rubber parts in the freezer before sanding them.

Actually, I haven't tried. But I should give it a try! I just wasn't aware that there's so thin soldering wire available.

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Actually, I haven't tried. But I should give it a try! I just wasn't aware that there's so thin soldering wire available.

I've found 0.3mm solder on Conrad.com.

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