RF-104G Starfighter "Marineflieger"

[ALF18]

Fabien

Keep it going - looks good. Also, I thought you should know that you coerced me into doing another CF-104. Look for my thread in this GB - it will be a Dual in natural metal, using kitchen foil. After having tackled that subject, I will finally have a nice range of CF-104s representing many different units, eras, and colour schemes. Then maybe I can one day do a Luftwaffe F-104G like yours (but of course it will not be as nice as this one!).

ALF

[faab104]

Thanks a lot :wub:

I painted with (Tamiya X-8yellow mixed with XF-59desert yellow) the access door to the amunition magazine,

and the front of dorsal spine (IFF aerial).

The radome is painted in white mixed with a few grey.

You can note there's no anti-glare pannel on Marine's F-104G.

[VG 33]

Lentement mais sûrement.

Patrick

[faab104]

I put the camera type KS-87B situated in the left side of the fuselage... don't really know how I will

make a clean window ... see later.

Now I progress slowly under the windscreen with a few scratchbuilt for standbye compass and automatic pitch control indicator.

[AX 365]

I put the camera type KS-87B situated in the left side of the fuselage... don't really know how I will

make a clean window ... see later.

Looking very nice faab. As for your window, use white glue, Humbrol ClearFix, Micro Krystal Klear or similar. All have worked great for me.

Mike

[faab104]

Thanks Mike. I'm afraid that glue will not give a really flat surface on the large window ... never tried on too large hole.

But I listen too you and try with white glue. Let's see later what's happen...

I made the green protection with "a paper handkerchief"+white glue+water, then paint it with Humbrol.

You can see the Verlinden etched part for cockpit edges, here painted grey.

[HOLMES]

how wonderful to see your progress.

Like the weatering and the paint job is excellent..

the scribing and rivets look very neat... B)

[VG 33]

Still very nice.

Patrick

[johnsan]

Nice crisp build.

[faab104]

Thanks you all !

[HOLMES]

Thanks you all !

The IP panel looking good from here !

[AndrewS]

Very fine progress, Fabien.

The cockpit overall is much improved over the kit detail; congratulations on capturing the tiny details so well. Should we worry about the safety of the pitot probe though?

Cheers,

Andrew.

[faab104]

You're always a terrible observer Andrew :D

Thanks Andrew and Holmes for your interest in my work.

Now I try to make a perfect junction between the fuselage and the windscreen.

After using cyanoacrylate I'm using white glue then a soft sanding. And then micromesh 4000, 6000, 8000 ...

It's a delicate work ... but to myself a serious lead to increase the quality of a model.

[VG 33]

Still very nice fabien.

But why do you paint your aircraft before setting the windscreen ?

Patrick

[TausugAIR]

Thanks Mike. I'm afraid that glue will not give a really flat surface on the large window ... never tried on too large hole.

But I listen too you and try with white glue. Let's see later what's happen...

I made the green protection with "a paper handkerchief"+white glue+water, then paint it with Humbrol.

You can see the Verlinden etched part for cockpit edges, here painted grey.

Fabien, I like the way you did the "green protection"! I should've waited before I treated mine and fixed the windshield. . . Thanks..

Farouk

[faab104]

But why do you paint your aircraft before setting the windscreen ?

Hi Patrick, I probably like to break the habits !

more seriously as you're not the first to ask me why : by the past when I had problems with the paint, or didn't enjoy my result, I used to

remove paint all over the kit with alcohol, without damaging the clear parts fixed or damage my work near the cockpit.

Now I keep this habit to keep fine the clear parts until near the end of the model, it prevent the clear parts

from any damages during the built and several manipulations...

I know it seems that I loose time and working again on the junction, but I see better how to do it when the fuselage is painted.

I think the clear part is the key for a great model, and I still searching the best way to do it ...

Thanks for your comment !

Thanks Farouk, and sorry for beeing late

Edited August 31, 2010 by faab104

[ALF18]

Fabien

Good progress so far.

How did the clear part turn out (did the glue dry clear)?

I wait until the last minute to attach clear parts. I have had disasters with masking where the paint spray got onto the clear canopy part(s), and made it look terrible. For that reason I am more prepared to risk a bit of trouble getting it to fit perfectly, than I am to risk spray leaking onto the nice transparency.

ALF

[faab104]

Hi ALF,

photos close-ups are cruel, junctions ain't as good as I expected ...

my "green protection" was a bit thick for the windscreen, it needs a few correction if I can.

but I'm back soon for the next step

[Eric B.]

Hi Faab,

Thanks Mike. I'm afraid that glue will not give a really flat surface on the large window ... never tried on too large hole.

But I listen too you and try with white glue. Let's see later what's happen...

Fantastic build so far.

For your camera window, you might also try and use clear adhesive tape (scoth tape). Some of their tapes are perfectly clear. Choose the gcloss surface variety like Scotch Crystal Clear (scotch crystal or however it is called in your country). That build excellent transparent covers for camera windows or or landing lights tranparent covers on wing leading edges for instances. Beware finger prints when you apply your small clear window but I believe in some instances result is better than white glue.

Cheers

Eric B.

[faab104]

Thanks Eric,

Your tip seems a good solution ... I am not convinced of the result I obtained with white glue for such a large window.

But the problem is How can I give the scotch tape the exact shape ? my window is rather oval ...

[Eric B.]

Faab,

Normally you should not use the clear adhesive tape just for the window, because or fingerprints and because it would be quite difficult to adjust and cement in position.

Use tape as a panel. As I can see the window is situated in the center of a small panel (I think I can see the panel lines) you might try to cut your tape so that it corresponds with panel shape. Then mask oval window and spray camo colour. This way your adhesive tape is not just window but panel, window being the masked part of the tape.

As tape is clear and camo colour shows through, another solution is to just matt varnish the unsmasked part of the panel around window.

Cheers

Eric B.

[faab104]

I'm gonna try this solution to see before make my choice, thanks for your fast answer

[faab104]

I'm back Eric !

after checking my documentation, the glass is recessed, so I won't use your tip this time, but thanks for sharing this idea !

[faab104]

Dorsal navigation light is made with clear sprue.

Others are made with Tamiya X-27"clear red" then a drop of white glue.

[faab104]

The Daco/Astra decal sheet keeps its promises : the decals are great !

The model chosen, a late Starfighter near 1986, will have just a few stencils, perhaps caus' of the weathering, touch up paints

or washing the aircraft...

See my model here RF104G

Edited September 7, 2010 by faab104