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Eric B.

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About Eric B.

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  1. It looks really good. Well weathered... Congratulations Eric B.
  2. Hello Doyusha has been around a long time. Their 1/100th jetliners kits had previously been labelled Entex or Nitto. They are of different quality. Their B737 or B727 maybe the weakest of the line but still may build in good models. Their DC-10s (DC10-10 IIRC) and L1011s maybe amongst their best. Only they both have early engine configuration (the L1011 with the longer body) that were used during the early years of operation only. I think the very best of the line are their B707-320/E-3 family that may weel be the nicest B707 in model form, even better than the larger Heller B707-320. Cheers Eric B.
  3. Hello, If I has to go for a fix, I'd try with the Hasegawa or Italeri Legacy Hornet gear if you can find some. Cheers... Eric B.
  4. Hello Besides Begemot, have you tries LindenHill? https://www.lindenhillimports.com/store/p76/LHD72036.html Regards Eric B.
  5. Hi Ioannis, hi all Yes, yess, yesss... Got my copy two days ago and it is just great! Fantastic photos of seldom seen Viper versions, extra sharp shootings, hi quality printing : that is an absolute must have no matter how many F-16 books you may have. Thank you again for your great job... Eric B.
  6. Hi I have both kits I'd say Mend is nicer in the box. But from first rate talented friend modellers reports it seems Trumpeter is far easier to build and still for a very good result. Regards Eric B.
  7. Aaaargh I'll be in for one! Tssst I already was there for first edition!! Eric B.
  8. Hi Carpena Decals used to do a twin hi viz - low viz CAW 6 set 1989-1990 as based on USS Forrestal. This two reference (two part) set was released in 1/48th and 1/72nd scale. Must be out of production now but sometimes found on ebay. * 1/72 sheets are 72-21 (Hi viz) and 72-22 (lo viz) * 1/48 refs are 48-11 low viz and (I suppose) 48-10 or 48-12 Featured aircraft are F-14A, A-7E, A-6E, SH-3, EA-6B (low viz sheet) and F-14A, A-7E, A-6E, S-3B and E-2C. I used one livery on a 1/72 F-14A long ago and it was not bad at the time. Check it might not be as well researched as some more recent specialised makers decals but I found it was not bad at all. Best regards - Wishing you well on your project. Eric B.
  9. Hi Thank you all for your kind words : appreciated after the long story building that model. Tracy : I noticed your log name at a glance and I figured you had been around VS-22 and Vikings. Thank you for your precious information about aircraft lighting in operation : I never had read this before. See if I can change this. I read (can't remember where) about the TACCO/SENSO canopies but thanks for the confirmation. Collin : must have been nice to be around these aircraft. I never saw one in flesh, but I always loved the stance/shape of the aircraft Best regards Eric B.
  10. Hi Stef Nice seeing you here. Beautiful Corsair. Cheers Eric B.
  11. Hi Congratulations : beautiful model, well done really, it's sharp. And detailing is... WOW!! Eric B.
  12. Hi, Thank you Never mind, you are welcome... Cheers Eric B.
  13. Hi all, Thank you really, Crackerjazz weathering is my general usual technique, as for the F-14Ds, F-18C and EA-6B that are around in this forum.... WEATHERING Weathering technique : there is no pre-shading (add no black basing) and all weathering is achieved after the original TPS scheme is plainly applied (weathering over camo). Technique follows a few simple principles. Origin is one of my friend, and master modeller once telling me : to paint a kit just figure out what happened in real life.. Based on that both F-14D (we are talking about TPS weathering here right?) are weathered a different manner because I guess no two Tomcats weathered the same way. Squadrons differ, operational conditions differ, environments differ !! F-14 weathering is a result of an effect of time, paint touch ups, but also mechanic shoes strains, liquid spillage.. F-14 weathering doesn't build in one day and that is how I tried to do my kit weathering.. First step : paint the plain TPS scheme FS 35237, FS36320 and FS36375. Then I start to work on panels, altering basic colours either darkening or lightening them with approaching colours. (exemple adding FS 36320 in FS35237 or WW2 Intermediate blue in FS3537). Panels are painted, starting to give model a patchwork effect. Then I work on touch ups along panel lines. Airbrush tuned to paint thin lines I paint along panel lines again using approachnig but different greys (generally lighter greys).. If possible all above is done in several days .. purposedly. As in real life. You don't paint the same way on different days. Your hand will be steady one day, not so much another day, your airbrush lines will be slightly thinner or thicker another day, you won't use the same exact colour - Doing all the job on a given day will tend to give your model an even finish with symetrical effects .. and that is not what you want weathering your model. Let your weathering build slowly. I then process decaling, sometimes blending some decals with a very thinned spray of main camo paint. Panel lines are then enhanced with very thinned sepia, black or dark grey oil based paint as my base camo is Gunze aqueous paint. This means I can wipe out excess paint from my panel lines with no risk for my main paint as thinners are not compatible.. I now have a decalled, panel lined, touched up Tomcat but the strains of mechanics are still lacking. A lot of people walk on Tomcats (pilots, mechanics), soles generally are dark, they use oil and generally all this leave some black strains and soot on the aircraft. I use very thinned black paint in my airbrush : I would call this mix coloured thinner more than thinned paint. Airbrush is set to minimum width spray (1 to 1.5 mm ie 0.1 or 0.15 in - as narrow as I can). I then spray all areas of they aircraft that mechanics or pilots tread : upper air intakes, main fuselage, upper wings (avoid spoilers, flaps and slats), centre parts of stabilators. Also areas under cockpit around hand grips or footsteps.. Spray print is so thinned that you have to remain on an area to see the dark colour build. Then I touch up again with small light grey dots over the dark stain effect... The idea is mechanics came, walked on an area, strained but later touched up again (clean, dirty, clean layers pile up - I believe that is how it goes.. ) Cheers Eric B.
  14. Hello, Sorry for the delay in replying.. Thank you for you kind motivating words. I thought this one could quite eassily and deserved to be repaired... plus I was not certain I'd have the will to start another Prowler soon : better have this one on the shelves than guessing. Cheers Eric B.
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