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ALF18

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About ALF18

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    3-foot builder

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Quebec City, Canada
  • Interests
    Canadian Forces aircraft
    WWII fighters
    Modern jet fighters (USAF, RAF, etc)

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  1. I got the fuselage glued together. The rear portion came together quite nicely, with little to no filler required. Here you can see I've not glued the front portion (under the engine) yet. Note how the fuselage to upper wing joint is not too bad... Unfortunately, when I squeeze the forward fuselage together, you can see a large gap at the upper wing joints. I will try to bend the wings up (with pronounced dihedral) when gluing to minimize it, but filler will likely be required. I mentioned earlier that the instructions are nicely coloured here and there to show what col
  2. Here's the almost-finished cockpit. Those injector extrusions have to go, otherwise it doesn't fit into the fuselage. The MiG MIP looks strangely at home... For all its fine detail, I don't like the way the sprue attachment points are on this kit. At the rear of the rudder, where the kit plastic is super thin, there is a huge block to be chopped off. I had to use some care to make sure I didn't chip out the rudder while I was at it. Enough complaining. The cockpit fits into some locator pins nicely. Dry fitting confirmed the headrest portion fits nicely into the aft fus
  3. Got the wings glued together, and the PE installed in the main wheel wells. Lovely surface detail. Don't look too closely at the flaps - you'll notice that my mistake in the build order has led to some botched surgery on the right flap (left side of pic). Oh well, it won't show underneath. I used a very lazy method to do the main instrument panel. The kit uses the strange part with a bunch of stuck-together circles, topped with a fairly blank MIP with circular holes to see through to the other part. There is very little to represent instruments. So, I went to my unused PE from my l
  4. This should be good, buddy. I haven't built this kit before. Looking forward to seeing your usual masterful job. ALF
  5. I deviated from the instructions by gluing the two gear well boxes into the upper wing sections, but I found the guns had nice rectangular locating slots in the lower wing as shown. Next, the split flaps. At first I was impressed by how this kit allowed for drooped flaps, and the interior detail (let's not talk about the injection marks right now) was nice. Then, I did a bunch of googling to see what angle the flaps would typically lie at when parked. After about an hour, I found that the vast majority (in fact maybe all) of the photos I found with drooped flaps were of models, not o
  6. Good to know. I've read that the pilot sits up quite high in the P-40 cockpit (window sill arriving at about elbow level, I think). Is the same thing true in the Allison Mustangs? I've sat in the Hurricane at the flying museum in Gatineau. I could barely see out the sides, because the seating position is super low. Being used to sitting in fighters like the CF-18 and F-16, I feel far more comfortable when I am very high up and the sidewalls are lower. ALF
  7. Just so you know, I didn't glue the little wheel well boxes to the lower wing part. Instead, I glued them into the upper wings, because the upper wings have little locating holes for the pins on the boxes, and I wanted to make sure they matched up. The lower wing section doesn't have much in terms of guidance for placement of these boxes. Out of curiosity, I looked up a build review, and found this one. Oddly, it appears the cockpit floor is not deep enough on this (and other P-40) kits. https://www.scalespot.com/onthebench/p40bronco/build.htm More soon. ALF
  8. This kit looks really nice to me, but my standards are a bit low. It has really good surface detail, and from the early part of the build I think it's well engineered. Case in point is the rectangular box for the main wheel well. In some other kits I've built, with a similar structure, the parts kind of fit together end to end, with little clear guidance on how exactly they should fit together. In this kit, parts C6 and C9 fit beautifully into little slots and holes in C8 and C3. The completed structure is on the page. In the second pic, you can see the equivalent of C3 for t
  9. After my long, tedious job foiling the MiG 21, I decided it was time to tackle something completely different. I've never built a kit from Bronco before, but this P-40 subject inrigued me. It includes options for Canadian decals, with a dark grey/green camo. Since I don't have an ability to airbrush here in our rented condo, I wanted to see how a hand-painted camouflage job might look. 1/48 scale is perfect for that, since it's easier to hide imperfections in a paint job than on a 1/32 WW II aircraft. I also decided to do the grey/green camo, because I also have an Academy 1/48 Tomoh
  10. I used a custom mix of Tamiya paints to do the rest of the cockpit and inside canopy. For the tail sections (hot parts) I used some Tamiya silver and gunmetal colours, hand-painted again. For the canopy rails I used a metallic silver artist's pen, but could have used foil if I had the patience for it. This was not one of my best projects, but I'm using it as a refresher to relearn some lessons before I attack some kits I care more about. It makes for an ok 3-footer, though. Thanks for stopping by! ALF
  11. Now I'm trimming off the excess above the wing. Second pic is the complex bulge above the wing. Aluminum foil is amazing pliable, and can be stretched gently and burnished in place with a toothpick to achieve this. Third pic is the large sheet sitting in place, with some crinkles on the upper spine that needed to be further massaged in place. I did this over several weeks. One thing I learned is that using huge pieces is not a great idea. It's better to attack small panels one at a time, and make sure you use the natural panel lines to camouflage the seams b
  12. I burnished all the way to just beyond the panel lines where I had already applied foil. I then used a super sharp exacto blade to cut along the outside of the panel line, and lifted off the excess with a small pair of tweezers. In pic 2 and 3, I've moulded the excess over the leading edge of the wing to hide the seam under the wing where NOBODY is allowed to look. Pic 4, starting to peel off the excess.
  13. Now for some of the uglier bits. I used cheap Betty Crocker foil from the dollar store, because it was thin. I bought some glue from the Bare Metal Foil company in the USA (ordered online). After spreading the glue on the foil on my glass desktop, I let it dry until transparent. If you look closely at some pics, you can see a tiny bit of unwanted texture caused by slightly uneven glue application to the foil (especially on the front part of the wing in the first pic). Foiling can be tedious, and at first it doesn't look like it's going to work. Here's the saga of one area, the uppe
  14. First time I saw a real MiG up close, I was amused at the green colour of the wheel hubs. One thing I like about this kit is how the hubs are separate from the tires, making it very easy to get a good demarcation between the black tires and green hubs. Lots of little bits to stick into the fuselage, but fit was great (even when I closed it up). A bit of tape, and the fuselage is nicely buttoned up. CF-18 coffee cup mandatory at this stage.
  15. A reminder for those who have lost sight of my situation. I have been living in a rented condo for 2 years, and cannot use my airbrush. I hand-paint with mostly Tamiya or ModelMaster Acryl acrylic paints. Here's what I used for the nose cone, and the wheel hubs on this model. I needed 2 coats to cover some of the thin spots. I painted the insides of the nose and tail sections with Tamiya silver, but it turned out those areas were almost invisible once everything was closed up. Another area that's almost invisible is the main gear wheel wells, but I had fun painting
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