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About ALF18

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    Life Member (Mon-Key Handler)

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  • Location
    Jonquiere Quebec
  • Interests
    Canadian Forces aircraft
    WWII fighters
    Modern jet fighters (USAF, RAF, etc)

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  1. ALF18

    1/32 CF-18

    Got this one done! I have attached the canopy without glue for now, so that it won't get damaged in transit. Holds itself nicely. Here is a close-up of the cockpit, showing the avionics bay and canopy in place. Shots of it done. Had to wait for it to stop raining here in the Great White North. ALF
  2. Been doing some painting. Here is the masking of the camouflage, using flexible medical tape. Patented method... (well, actually freely shared by AX_365). I love that tape for masking. Based on the discussion about the colour of the props, I did a repaint of the blades using Tamiya Flat aluminum. More soon. Finishing up another model right now (CF-18 in 1/32 scale). ALF
  3. As I just posted, you're right about that. The intake shroud is apparently stainless steel. The blades are in fact oxidized. ALF
  4. Guess what, we're both (sort of) right. Through the magic of Facebook, I manged to get the full story from a guy who works in the shop that refurbishes the Aurora props. He tells me that they are indeed natural metal, but that they are never polished, so they take on a dull grey colour that looks a bit like paint. I decided to paint mine Tamiya dull aluminum. They look more natural now. Pictures soon, after I've applied decals, etc to the props. ALF
  5. I agree that they should (logically) be natural aluminum, and the Herc's props (similar engines) are certainly that colour. Both the kit instructions and my photos belie that, though. Here are two more close-ups I took. On the head-on partial view, where the prop logos are faded, it almost seems like the natural metal is peeking through in little speckles, and that there is indeed a light grey paint applied. Not sure. Unfortunately, my client, an Aurora pilot who just retired, is currently on the beach in New Jersey, and won't be home for a while, so I can't ask his opinion. Does anyone know for sure? Here, with some natural metal showing on the intake above the prop hub, you can see the contrast with the seeming light grey blades. I also noticed that the red and white bands at the tips are severely weathered, on the front faces, and are almost pristine on the rear faces of the props. I just might dry-brush some light grey paint over top of the decals to mimic this effect. ALF
  6. Time to assemble the props. They come in full-coarse pitch, and there is NO way I will change that. Lots of work done after that. Assembled all 4 props, and painted the black and light grey. From the pictures, it is fairly close to the underside light grey (which also happens to be the colour of Tamiya light grey primer you see here, close to FS 36375 Light Ghost Grey, the same colour as the underside of the CF-18). I hand-painted the prop blades using Model Master Acryl, FS 36375, which is a tiny bit darker than the primer colour. According to the kit instructions, the blades are 70% the underside grey, 30% black, mixed. Close enough, especially in the light of these pictures. Thanks for stopping by. Next, masking for the upper medium grey (again, same as the CF-18, FS 35237). I'll use Model Master Acry. ALF
  7. Filler time. Not NEARLY as much fun as Miller time, and WAY less fun than Labatt's time! A few coats of this required, to fill in the pylon grooves. The real thing, with no pylons installed, is super smooth. Fairly clear from this photo, but up close the pylon mounts are almost invisible (just locating circles). The new-style wingtips, which are quite different from the ones the kit includes as add-ons. Apparently, they lowered the indicated airspeed limit at lower altitudes to 300 kts when installing these wingtips because of flutter concerns, but never fully tested them to see if it was a legitimate concern. This I gleaned from a nice chat with an Aussie Exchange pilot on the squadron in Greenwood. ALF
  8. At long last, some progress again. Not wanting to repeat the near-disaster of the 'Gimli Glider', I decided to use good old trial and error to ensure enough weight was used. I filled up the nose cone with fishing weights, and tried it using the fingers in the wheel wells technique. Close, but not sure it will quite be enough. This is the amount I could get in there without causing fit problems. In the ongoing 'better safe than sorry' approcah, I decided to add more lead into the nose area, just aft of the flight deck. Before I glued the fuselage halves together, I made sure that this would be possible. Drop 'em in, glob a bunch of CA glue, and we're done. Wingtips went on fairly well, with a minor burr to file down, and a bit of filler required. Of note, this is the AIMP version of the wingtip; they are now quite different. I had a chance to walk around the one at the Bagotville airshow recently; I just hope CSIS hasn't opened a file on me after they saw me take copious photos. I can't use it as a direct example, because it is the latest version of Aurora that visited here last month. Original wingtip Wing chopped, with original wingtip on the cutting mat. New version A less blurry shot of the new wingtip glued in place. Fairly good fit if chopped along the existing line in the kit's wingtip. Here it is, sitting on its feet. Good balance. Before any smoothing of joints or addition of filler. The kit fits quite nicely for such a large aircraft in this scale. ALF
  9. ALF18

    1/32 CF-18

    Sure. Send transportation cost, and I'll supply the beer and labour. I didn't want to take a chance. Better safe than sorry! ALF
  10. ALF18

    1/32 CF-18

    Can't say enough about how happy I am. The client should be very pleased. ALF
  11. Thanks, Mike. Love The Rock! Even for him, though, that movie was a bit over the top. Got the call from PEG about the door; closed it is. Phew. Much less fragile. Setting this aside for a couple days while I finish off the other build I'm doing, a big CF-18 for a guy in Cold Lake. ALF
  12. ALF18

    1/32 CF-18

    Thanks Phantom! Colin's decals were perfect. Here's the RCAF, pilot's name, and mission markings. Great finishing touches. I had to move the roundel further aft, because I had put it slightly too far forward and the RCAF was crowding the electrical outlet. Now to apply flat coat, and attach the canopies. Almost done! ALF
  13. ALF18

    1/32 CF-18

    I will delay delivery just for you, buddy! Actually, I haven't heard when the clients may be showing up to retrieve it, so I'm sure it'll be done and still here. Something to look forward to! Colin K, as I mentioned, came through with some decals for this. They arrived in the mail today. So excited! In preparation for the decals, I removed the old mission markings (which look terrible compared to Colin's decals). The tape I used took most of them off, but I had to scrape a bit more, because the clear coat and dull coat held some of the markings too well. Colin's decals are like Canmilair's; the whole sheet is one big decal film. I therefore cut out a larger piece of the paper backing, and then trimmed closely around the RCAF to limit the amount of carrier film that exists around the RCAF. Of course, this RCAF fits between the roundel and the big 'E' (electrical symbol) aft of the electrical door and fuselage crank. I realized that I put the roundel a bit too far forward, and the properly-sized RCAF does not fit between them. I therefore tried to remove the roundel; it was too well sealed in place. I then painted over the roundel and remaining mission markings. Here, I have started to dirty up that area with some pencil lead smudging. Next, clear coat, decals, dull coat. More soon! ALF
  14. ALF18

    1/32 CF-18

    Thanks, Elmo! Here is a closer picture of the avionics bay with its PE cover. Colin's decals didn't make it here before the weekend; I think the dog sled ran into some rocky roads at some point. Hopefully early next week I can finish this off. ALF
  15. I'm well aware of the conversion factors. Unfortunately, some of the weights are not labelled and I'm just guessing at how many ounces, and sometimes I have found the kit instructions can be a bit light on the required weight. I have installed a rock with CA glue in behind the flight deck, and will fill the nose with enough to do the job. The lines are so subtle on the Aurora (real thing) and on this kit that I was not going to worry about them. Rescribing is not on my list of fun things to do, and I am in this hobby for fun, period. Even that old Monogram Voodoo kit, with its huge raised panel lines, is not something that would incite me to rescribe. Took your advice of the extra behind-cockpit weight, as you saw in the picture at the beginning of this post. Looks like there may be a minor pinch-in here and there, but not too major. The next decision is what to do with the boarding door and ladder. I'm inclined just to close it off (fewer things to break over the years, and when it's not on MY shelf, the poor client sometimes has a hard time fixing stuff like this that is fragile and prone to breakage). I'll send PEG a query by FB about this. Luckily, the interior is not a problem if the door is left open, but then again it would look weird as just a blank black wall inside. And NO, I am NOT scratch-building an interior!!! 😛 Here the fuselage has been glued together and held with masking tape. Saw the movie Skyscraper with the Rock the other day, and loved his line: 'If it's not working out, you're not using enough tape.' Thanks for the comments and advice, guys! ALF
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