Painting and Sanding

[90 Degree bank=Me fly A380]

Hi, I'm new to modelling and I have ruined 3 models already in the painting and sanding stage. Firstly I would like to ask how to tell if the filling has been sanded till it is thin enough for its first coat of paint. Secondly I would also like to know whether I should use enamel or acrylic paint to apply the first layer of paint to the fuselage (to hide all the filling and original colour of the model).

Edited September 10, 2010 by 90 Degree bank=Me fly A380

[Joseph Osborn]

Primer. A nice gray primer such as Tamiya or Mr Surfacer from the small rattle cans will help you tremendously. You can also use "regular" hardware or auto store primers, but bear in mind they are much thicker and will probably need sanding before you can apply the paint coats. You can also apply the primer coat with an airbrush. Hope this helps you get over the hump and get a model finished!!

[ThatJeffGuy]

I prefer the white (extra fine) Tamiya primer. I find that you can fill and sand and run your finger over the joint and it will feel smooth...but as soon as you blast

some Tamiya primer over the joint your errors jut pop right out at you. Some folks also like to use a silver magic marker too for this purpose. I'll

let somebody correct me on the magic marker thing though because I know that black 'Sharpie' marker will bleed through paint like a son-of-a-gun

so my magic marker idea may be a mis-placed recollection (or maybe silver does not bleed through)

So fill / sand / prime / check / repeat until done

You will probably need to rescribe lost detail when you finally get done too. Look on the main ARC page under tips for a filling method that

does not involve sanding.

:)

[shinai]

I think the sanding and filling part is just something you learn how to do. I use the Tamiya fine surfacer from a can then apply the colors I intend on using.

Also, a lot of my first models and even the ones I do now are not perfect. I recommend even though the model maybe "ruined" to just go ahead and complete them and try to perfect your skills.

[flanker27]

hi,

sorry to hijack this thread, but can I use Gunze Sangyo enamel paint (not water based) over Tamiya primer? will that cause the Tamiya primer to peel?

I am having a hard time looking for Gunze Sangyo water based paint here in the US

thanks

[Phantom ordie]

Try to pre-fit parts and adjust them to fit so that you can eliminate as much filling as possible. Its best to buy some really cheap models until you get the hang of it,and search the net for all the help avialable,videos and instuction sites.

[Bob Beary]

hi,

sorry to hijack this thread, but can I use Gunze Sangyo enamel paint (not water based) over Tamiya primer? will that cause the Tamiya primer to peel?

I am having a hard time looking for Gunze Sangyo water based paint here in the US

thanks

You can airbrush any kind of paint over Tamiya Fine White primer.

Bob

[90 Degree bank=Me fly A380]

Another question, how do you fill and sand an airliner's engine considering that it needs to be painted before assembly?

[Burbankbill]

I use a silver paint pen to show up more sanding. I dont use putty if I dont have to. First I go over the seam with the paint pen which shows the gaps, then I use duro super glue as a filler. Then after the superglue is dry I remove the paint with easey liftoff paint remover and then sand till the paint under the glue is removed and the seam is filled. Hit it again with the marker and repeat if nessesary. The duro glue sands easily, not all superglues sand easily.

Bill

[Isaac]

I'll second the tamiya fine white primer. I decanted some into a little bottle and thinned it with mr color leveling thinner. I apply it with the airbrush and it leaves a much smoother finish that i was able to achieve with mr surfacer 1200.

[Rick in Maine]

IMHO, experience has been my best teacher as to what is "smooth enough."

Rick in Maine

Edited September 12, 2010 by Rick in Maine

[RichardL]

will that cause the Tamiya primer to peel?

It's almost impossible for water based stuff to cause Tamiya primer to peel. Tamiya primer is a lacquer, so it etches into the plastic.

I am having a hard time looking for Gunze Sangyo water based paint here in the US

That's because I bought them all, wah haha.

I like Tamiya fine gray primer because it shows surface imperfections much more noticeably to the naked eyes.

[Netz]

The tools I like to use for body work are.

1. the hobby knife

2. Machinist files, they cut rather than shred, and can leave a finished surface when done.

3. Emory paper

4. sanding sticks (Wal-Mart)

5. Steel Wool, for the last finishing touch

6. Rifler files, those small files with the curved ends

Typically I test fit the parts before glueing, so as mentioned I will have to do the least amount of filling.

Once glued I'll use my big files, this will get the surface to 80-100% of where it should be.

Then apply filler to the needed areas, then again use the files.

Once I'm done with the big files I'll use the rifler files in the contoured area's, sanding stick and emory paper to finish area's the big file could not get to.

Follow this with steel wool.

I would not use hardware store or automotive spray primers, they might contain too much lacquer thinner and will melt plastic, Unless specifically made for plastic. I know someone who just ruined a very important part using a automotive spray, (his initials are E.G. :})

I've used permanent markers to check seam progress, I've used red and blue, so far I have had no problem, I'm sure the inks have set by the time I get to painting (usually a month to a year.......)

Don't know what your asking about the airliner intakes... but if it's filling small hard to get to areas, use the filler nail-polish remover technique.

Curt

[tobiK]

Maybe another advice for sanding: after the tamiya grey (or white) primer is dry, I sand the surfaces WET...grind 1000 -1200 or micromesh even finer. I do this wet, means, by using water. After that I wash the model, and before the painting, I prepare the surface by washing with water added a drop of dishcleaning soap to remove the fat of the fingerprints. After that I always use surgical gloves to hold the model (and to protect my fingers from getting painted). By this method I made the best experience to have a well prepared surface for painting!