NavyPhantoms Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 I have some older aircraft kits with raised panel lines that i'd like to rescribe. I use a metal ruler for a straight edge and so far I'm ok on the flat surfaces. What are some tips for scribing the curved surfaces? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
B2Blain Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Photo etched template or dynamo tape. Good luck! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RedStar Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Get drafting/architects tape instead of dymo tape - dymo is good for straight lines, but is tough to use on curved panel lines or compound curved surfaces. The tape is thick and will act as just as good a guide for any scribing tool as the dymo tape. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CrowTRobot Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 (edited) What are some tips for scribing the curved surfaces? I use custom templates cut from aluminum cans. For simple, non-compound curves I cut thin, straight strips of aluminum. For more complex compound curves I use a set of french curves to trace patterns of varying radii on the aluminum, then I cut them out and test fit them to find a good match for the surface. Either way, I'll attach one end of the template with a bit of masking tape and hold the other end firmly taut with one hand. Then I use the free hand to scribe with a needled chucked in a pin vise. The nice thing is that these templates are reusable over several models before they start to wear out, and they're cheap!! Edited July 15, 2013 by CrowTRobot Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spectre711 Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 If you know someone with old drafting equipment or a place that sell drafting supplies you can use an eraser shield for the templates. They are cheap and usually have various kinds of shapes cut out of them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stan in YUL Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 Micromark used to sell a set of scribbing templates (three types). Great value. If you cut a thin strip of Dynmo tape you can induce a decent freehand curve. May I suggest you wipe down the surface is alcohol before each time you lay the tape down: I find that oils from your skin and other contaminants really do a number on the adhesive - you'll find that you get a bit more mileage out of the tape. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pierre Sacha Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 (edited) Hi, - 3M Aluminum tape works as well as Dymo and it's easier to cut into shapes. - For complicated shapes on a round fuselage, use metal templates to cut templates from aluminum tape, stick in place and scribe. - Good quality electrical tape layered two at a time works great for curves, even tiny one's. BUT your first pass should be VERY light. Did I mention very light passes at first? :D/> Regards Pierre Edited July 19, 2013 by Pierre Sacha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bails Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Agree on using electrical tape. Suggest buying a color other than black. Green works for me. For curves, cut in narrow strips and it will handle the curve nicely. As suggested, start scribing very lightly, heavier as you proceed.....slowly and patiently. Bails Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NavyPhantoms Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share Posted August 7, 2013 Thanks for all the tips. I used electrical tape and it worked well. I also found that old Lowe's gift cards bend nicely on curved surfaces and provided a sharp edge against the scribing tool. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grey Ghost 531 Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 One technique I've read about is super-gluing square strip to the model, using the edge of the strip to guide the scribe and then using super-glue debonder to remove the strip. Interesting idea, but I've never tried it myself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pigsty Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 All this effort! I use Dymo tape where I have to put lines on virgin plastic. I also have scribing templates, but none is flexible enough to go everywhere it needs to, so they get very little use. My main technique is: follow the lines on the kit. If you're happy with where they are, they're almost always high enough to guide your scriber. Start with the gentlest of touches, just to key the line you're scribing, and you'll minimise the chances of the tip skiting off somewhere because of too much pressure. The one drawback with this is that you have to scribe to one side of the kit's panel line, so the shapes you end up drawing are always slightly displaced. But I defy anyone looking at it afterwards to know that. If you're careful, for instance displacing the same way on either side, there should be no ill-effects. After a while you'll surprise yourself with how easy it is to scribe freehand (very, very gingerly, though). On the other hand, if you're concerned that the kit's panel lines are in the wrong place, crack on. Scrub them out, and all the techniques above are good ones. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 It helps when using Pigsty's suggestion to start out pushing the scriber rather than pulling it. Use very light pressure and scribe in "reverse" to set the initial groove. Keep the scriber tilted slightly toward the raised panel lines of the kit. This will help prevent going off line and having to correct the mistakes. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NavyPhantoms Posted August 15, 2013 Author Share Posted August 15, 2013 Pushing works very well. I tried it tonight for some of the finer lines I was cutting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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