my favs are F`s Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 The gaps are covered. Only partially from the inner side of the stabilizers, but a large area of the gap stretches right at the edge with the glossy heat protectors, so it has to look like a panel line. Then, very very subtle riveting, and a few other small decorations, and they are absolutely prepped: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
I.Martin Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Great work!! I.Martin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kellyF15 Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 If you want to make it interesting, you can make a figure of me holding on for dear life at the top of the right vert while changing the counter weight.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 (edited) hehe, Kelly, i`ll figure it out after a minute with the second figure and with some tape, and i`ll post the photo ::DDD Btw that reminds me of a question that i was curious about from a long time. So, how strong is the skin of the plane when there is a person on it... for example, is there any change or movement of the panels due to the approx 80 kilos tension of a person? The panels can move with 1-2 mm or they are rock solid and they can`t move at all? Is there any difference if a person walks along the edges of the panels where are located the frame supports underneath, and if a person walks right in the middle of a panel? :))) A long question. Okey okey, in brief - i saw plenty of photos with people over the plane, but is it possible that the panels are flexible, even if they move just a millimeter or so, or the panels are rock solid under the tension of one person? I`m just curious about it :) 10x! Edited July 25, 2016 by my favs are F`s Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 ... :woot.gif:/> Is it a sidewinder... can it fly... Hellllo from the other siiiiide :D/> omg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kellyF15 Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 YOU JUST MADE MY DAY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kike Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 It looks like the bulge on the rudder depends on the birds, there's been a discussion on Chuck's thread about that, remember those are C eagles but it changes from plane to plane. I'm gonna put the link here in case there are some interested, for your model it looks like a bit late since you already addressed the "issue" in any case looks like both can be accurate at least for C Eagles Chuck's WIP Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted July 26, 2016 Author Share Posted July 26, 2016 In my opinion, it`s like the numerous parts changed over time due to the new technologies, materials, etc. The logic is that the bulged part is the actuator, which in the beginning used to be outside the surface area for a longer pivot point, for greater force. But after years of development, the actuators become possible to be completely hidden under the surface and yet provide the needed force to turn the rudders. Not to mention that the rudders are some of the few composite parts in the plane, which results in a slightly different color in some planes, just like the brake. There are the same bulged parts for the ailerons and the flaps, while the bases of the stabilators are two huge bulged parts from the leading to the trailing edge. But i`m almost 100% sure that the rudders experience much less force than the other control surfaces, so it was advantageous to hide the actuators without bulged coverings. And, if the bulged part is changed (but designed with), there should be struts and support elements from the frame of the rudders under the surface, which more or less "appear" only at certain angle. But overall, there are no such bulged parts. Wow :) this is just my logic and opinion, and it turned quite a theme :D Here is a closeup of the same photo, same angle.... there are some "contours" of these parts and they can be noticed only in closeup, yet the rudders are flat to the surface, of course not mirror flat... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kellyF15 Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 (edited) The rudder actuator is the vertical rectangle at the bottom front corner of the rudder. it has 4 bolts on the leading edge in the picture, and 4 more on the other side. It has a round spline gear at the top which the rudder sits down on. The 2 bolts on the rudder itself are where the bracket that attaches to the rudder mount. When we would change the rudder, we would usually leave the bracket attached to the actuator and just remove those 2 thru bolts ( they used to be 2 bolts on each side that were safety wired). Edited July 26, 2016 by kellyF15 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted July 26, 2016 Author Share Posted July 26, 2016 A-ha, roger that! :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted July 26, 2016 Author Share Posted July 26, 2016 Small upgrade from today - i replaced the fuel vents with photo etch pieces and thinned the very tips of the wings` trailing edges, right next to the vents: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Falconxlvi Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 (edited) I spotted an "issue" at daylight and first to ask, because it may be correct, i`m not sure. It comes to this small and yet noticeable outward angle of the pods of the vert. stabilizers: The quality of the photo is not that good, but it is noticeable. The camera is right above the pods, and the photo is quite zoomed. I`m sure that i glued the ALQ pod properly and i checked the alignment plenty of times. The other, the thinner pod is straight as it is oob... The thing is that i also came across this same issue in the F-15C in 1/48 and i thought that i should correct it, so i straighten the pods while thinking that they should be perfectly parallel to each other. But here - once again the same outward angle?! So i`m thinking is it the right thing? Maybe that is how it is in the real plane too. :unsure:/>/> :unsure:/>/> Any info? Thanks a lot :)/>/> I checked this at work the other day and those pods are mounted straight on each vertical stab. They are not canted whatsoever. Also, I'm not sure if you were going to paint the covers of the wing root anti-collision lights with a darker translucent red later in your build, but the red tint is a bit more opaque on the jet. Additionally, if it's not too late, the right wingtip light housing is actually blue in appearance instead of green. Don't get me wrong, when the light is on, it shines green, but the housing plexiglass is blue when the lights are off. As always, your build is incredible and I only offer up these tips knowing you are creating the most accurate F-15E I have ever seen in any scale! Steve Edited July 27, 2016 by Falconxlvi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Falconxlvi Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 I have changed many many F-15E rudders, and I swear I don't remember a bulge. It's not there - your memory is spot on! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 Awesome work! Following with interest. In some of the pictures, the surface looks very polished. Do you polish the surface with fine sandpaper, micromesh, or something? And is that to prep it for the photos or is there a practical reason behind it. I tend to prefer a somewhat dull surface during construction and priming, but it would be great to learn if you have other reasons. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 (edited) 10x all! Steve, awesome info! I`ll keep that in mind, the lights should be switched off. After the painting, i`ll mask them and will add a thin lacquer coat as filter. Janissary, i used 1000 grit sandpaper as a last treatment. It just helps delete the traces from the 600 grit sandpaper, but after a lot of rubbing it also gives the polishing effect. I just believe that the "mirror-like" surface is the key to make the primer set smoothly easier, then the paints onto the primer and so on. ...Cause sanding/polishing after painting cancels the details, while the lacquer fills the details. Edited July 27, 2016 by my favs are F`s Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted July 29, 2016 Author Share Posted July 29, 2016 I get started with the radar equipment bay. The door will be movable and the strut too. I changed the handles of the boxes, then some riveting and a thin layer of surfacer: This is my improvisation for the difficult color. A mix of 4 Humbroll enamels: And after the main colors + a lot of decals for the small labels of the boxes: It`s still not texturised from the outside, but the door fits flawlessly after some sanding: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted July 30, 2016 Author Share Posted July 30, 2016 On to the wiring... this is how it started and what has to go inside :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted July 30, 2016 Author Share Posted July 30, 2016 :woot.gif:/> The labels... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kellyF15 Posted July 30, 2016 Share Posted July 30, 2016 That looks freaky good. With the door open the door latches would be easy to see. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted July 30, 2016 Author Share Posted July 30, 2016 ...With the door open the door latches would be easy to see... Well, i noticed that, but... i`m just a little crazy, not too much :)))) I even deleted one latch when reducing the thickness of the door, and i don`t know whether to try to rescribe it or to leave it like that, flat... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
falcon20driver Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 Wow, thats some seriously awesome work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rocat Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 Great progress, amazing details. Bravo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HOLMES Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 (edited) :wow: Blooming AMAZING work. :bow: Edited July 31, 2016 by HOLMES Quote Link to post Share on other sites
305swag Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 Very good scratch building! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
my favs are F`s Posted July 31, 2016 Author Share Posted July 31, 2016 Thanks Thanks. I just connected the boxes thoroughly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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