hawkwrench Posted December 23, 2019 Share Posted December 23, 2019 Getting ready to shoot future on my HB F-14D and I've never used it before. I've bought the ammonia free windex to clean it afterwards. What's the steps so that I don't ruin my Patriot? Thanks Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
11bee Posted December 23, 2019 Share Posted December 23, 2019 I heard windex works well. FWIW, if you aren't sold on Future, I got a tip here to use Tamiya X-22 clear gloss. I tried and love the stuff, I'll never go back to Future which to me, was difficult to use. Always ended up with issues. Regardless, good luck! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
airmechaja Posted December 23, 2019 Share Posted December 23, 2019 Ammonia is what works to clean Future from your airbrush. Windex without ammonia won't work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ichitoe Posted December 23, 2019 Share Posted December 23, 2019 I've had better luck with Future by brushing it on using a wide soft brush. However, I now use Tamiya X-22 exclusively, better results. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hawkwrench Posted December 24, 2019 Author Share Posted December 24, 2019 6 hours ago, airmechaja said: Ammonia is what works to clean Future from your airbrush. Windex without ammonia won't work. I thought the ammonia was what would tear the seals up so that's why I bought the ammonia free version. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
airmechaja Posted December 24, 2019 Share Posted December 24, 2019 That's contrary to my knowledge. Goes to show what I know. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Napalmakita Posted December 24, 2019 Share Posted December 24, 2019 I've used tap water immediately after shooting. 3 iwata airbrushes, 0 issues. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ElectroSoldier Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 On 12/23/2019 at 3:42 PM, 11bee said: I heard windex works well. FWIW, if you aren't sold on Future, I got a tip here to use Tamiya X-22 clear gloss. I tried and love the stuff, I'll never go back to Future which to me, was difficult to use. Always ended up with issues. Regardless, good luck! How did you find it difficult to use? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
11bee Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 (edited) On 12/30/2019 at 1:09 AM, ElectroSoldier said: How did you find it difficult to use? Always got uneven finishes, had issues with the extended drying time causing dust particles to get stuck to it and honestly, found that to get a truly high gloss finish, it took numerous coats. Compared to X-22 which goes on easily, dries quickly and at best, requires 2 coats for a very smooth, hard, glossy finish. I know other folks are disciples of Future but for me, I'm never going back. Edited January 19, 2020 by 11bee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ElectroSoldier Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 Oh right I see, yeah it does require some "skill" to use it. Cant disagree with your call on Tamiya though. I use both myself, depending on what Im doing... I find Klear works best in small areas. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spejic Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 Alcohol will work in cleaning Future from airbrushes. I would use either that or water. Ammonia will react with the brass that most airbrushes are made of and you will see the chrome finish come off and eventually damage to the surface. At the very least rinse the airbrush with water after using anything with ammonia. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ElectroSoldier Posted April 28, 2021 Share Posted April 28, 2021 On 12/23/2019 at 3:42 PM, 11bee said: I heard windex works well. FWIW, if you aren't sold on Future, I got a tip here to use Tamiya X-22 clear gloss. I tried and love the stuff, I'll never go back to Future which to me, was difficult to use. Always ended up with issues. Regardless, good luck! Yeah I never thought Klear was all that good either. Great for dipping canopies but as a gloss coat it was quite a learning curve to get it to work well. I always much preferred Tamiya X-22 gloss to decal over and for cars gloss coat (changed these days with buffables) On 12/23/2019 at 9:18 AM, hawkwrench said: Getting ready to shoot future on my HB F-14D and I've never used it before. I've bought the ammonia free windex to clean it afterwards. What's the steps so that I don't ruin my Patriot? Thanks Tim Any airbrush cleaner will do it. Vallejo "acrylic" airbrush cleaner, Tamiya Airbrush cleaner, Gunze Mr Tool cleaner... Cellulose thinners can be bought by the 5L for buttons. A paint cup full of water to flush it then any old cleaner will do it. I dont know why people are obsessed with Windex... Use that on your windows Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stan in YUL Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 I prepare a small tub of hot water with an extra squirt of dishwashing detergent in it. When finished, the airbrush goes in, cup and all, to be flushed out. Leave it in to soak and go for a coffee. Comeback and blow air through it and wipe the brush body dry. Seems to work just fine. Best of luck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
admiralcag Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 On 4/28/2021 at 12:37 AM, ElectroSoldier said: A paint cup full of water to flush it then any old cleaner will do it. I dont know why people are obsessed with Windex... Use that on your windows Windex has ammonia, which is the recommended solvent for Future. Vern Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ElectroSoldier Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 7 hours ago, admiralcag said: Windex has ammonia, which is the recommended solvent for Future. Vern Yeah I understand that. But then I also understand that the internals of an airbrush is unfinished brass. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichardL Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 Understand that Windex Original Glass Cleaner has only 5% of Ammonium Hydroxide, which is just a diluted form of ammonia. The airbrush will be fine if people flush the ammonia out with water or IPA immediately after use. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ElectroSoldier Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 Maybe you could look up the science before hand. Ammonia starts attacking the brass as soon as it comes into contact with it. That is scientific fact and beyond debate. The effect of the ammonia is cumulative. Which means the more you do it the worse it gets. Given most peoples attitudes towards cleaning their airbrushes on here I couldnt recommend any ammonia based compounds at all because Ammonia attacks brass at the molecular level on contact. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichardL Posted May 2, 2021 Share Posted May 2, 2021 (edited) no, windex will not destroy your airbrush, starting at 4:00 Edited May 2, 2021 by RichardL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ElectroSoldier Posted May 3, 2021 Share Posted May 3, 2021 (edited) No. Ammonia does attack brass, it will destroy your airbrush in the end. Given most people have their airbrushes and uses then for 20 odd years it will kill it in the end. A nobody guy on youtube telling you ammonia doesnt really attack brass because the time its exposed to it is so shohrt blah blah blah means nothing at all. If you leave the ammonia in it afterwards then the ammonia sits on the brass and attacks it. And then if you clean the airbrush again after the windex with something like IPA then WHY BOTHER with the Windex at all because the IPA will do just as good a job as the Windex ever could, in fact it does a better job of cleaning it out, it doesnt attack the brass and you wouldnt have the useless expense of buying the Windex at all. Edited May 3, 2021 by ElectroSoldier Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spejic Posted May 3, 2021 Share Posted May 3, 2021 A long time ago I read the hint to use ammonia-based cleaners in an airbrush and started doing that on my Iwata. It took a few months, but the chrome started getting stripped from the cup and it turned a golden color. I switched to other cleaners when I realized what was happening. It's not some kind of instantaneous reaction, but it will happen. I stopped before I got any pitting, but the brass is softer than the chrome and I can see lots of small scratches in the cup even though I only use soft tools to mix and clean. If you keep using ammonia long enough to get pitting or deep scratches then it's going to be hard to clean the airbrush. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
admiralcag Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 (edited) On 5/1/2021 at 2:56 PM, ElectroSoldier said: Yeah I understand that. But then I also understand that the internals of an airbrush is unfinished brass. Yeah... That... The ammonia will attack the chrome, but I didn't know it would attack the brass. Edited May 8, 2021 by admiralcag Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichardL Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 19 minutes ago, admiralcag said: Yeah... That... The ammonia will attack the chrome Might want to read this link: Physical and Chemical Properties of Chromium Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ElectroSoldier Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 (edited) 2 hours ago, admiralcag said: Yeah... That... The ammonia will attack the chrome, but I didn't know it would attack the brass. Yeah ammonia is known to attack brass. The Chrome is fine, it flakes off like it does when you use ammonia based cleaners because the brass underneath is being attacked and the chrome covers up the problem until it flakes off then people think the problem is the chrome not the brass 2 hours ago, RichardL said: Might want to read this link: Physical and Chemical Properties of Chromium Chromium is resistant to Ammonia, but brass isnt and the brass isnt completely covered by the cromium which is why you get the chrome lifting off because the brass is being attacked by the ammonia. You are arguing against established metallurgical science and peoples actual use experience here RichardL Edited May 8, 2021 by ElectroSoldier Quote Link to post Share on other sites
admiralcag Posted May 15, 2021 Share Posted May 15, 2021 I learned something. Can I go home now? Oh, wait... Vern Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichardL Posted May 18, 2021 Share Posted May 18, 2021 On 5/8/2021 at 8:53 AM, ElectroSoldier said: Chromium is resistant to Ammonia, but brass isnt and the brass isnt completely covered by the cromium Why isn't the brass completely covered by chrome when the entire part is submerged in the plating bath during the electroplating process? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.