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HASEGAWA F-86 MK 6 1/48 WITH KASL SLATS/FLAPS, VERLINDEN GUN BAYS, B&B RESIN DESIGN (AMS) SUGAR SCOOPS AND AIRES SEAT.


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11 hours ago, dai phan said:

Thank you very much and I will correct the placement as advised. I look at the F-30 wing and the holes are identical in positions like the F-40 wings too. That means Hasegawa had the pylons wrong in their kits ? Dai 

exactly, the only kit that gets the pylon location right is the monogram F-86D.

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11 hours ago, dai phan said:

Greetings, 

 

i look at the Luffwafe MK 6 and the underside is grey rather than PRU Blue as I advised in the earlier threads. Shall it be grey? The Hasegawa instructions calls for grey underside. Of course you would never use restored museum samples as your references. Dai 

 

Yes , Luftwaffe Mk6s were grey underneath, called Silbergrau.   The used Mk5s they received had the standard RCAF PRU Blue undersides.

 

Tony

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23 hours ago, dai phan said:

This is something interesting. Scalemates has this "Super Detail" F86 F-30 with gun bay and flaps in 1/48 scale. Must be an error? Dai 

 

 

No, I remember seeing this boxing sometime ago. IIRC, the gun bay & flaps were by a resin company called Jaguar. If I'm not mistaken, Hasegawa packaged their F-86 with the Jaguar resin.

Edited by JackMan
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As Jackman says, no not an error. This 'Super Detail' kit is number 51022/CH22. While it only goes up to 2015, this modelingmadness link has a summary of Hasegawa 1/48 F-86 Sabre kit contents . The Sabres are listed about a third of the way down the page; after the F-8s, A-4s, A-7s and AV-8B/Harrier kits. This says the box included 21 resin parts such as wheels, control surfaces, cockpit, gun bays and intake for superdetailing, similar to Eduard's series of limited edition kits.

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Hello all,

 

If you are doing the MK 6, forget about the resin tips as the cross section area is not in tune with the wing's airfoil. I had enough with the resin parts so I snap them off (easily as CA has a very poor bond) and use the kit's. Cut of the tips and sand carefully to the line. Glue in the top and the lower sections making sure everything is smoothed and flushed with each other. Let dry then cement the halves togther. Some putty work is sttill needed but way less. No need for massive putty work that wipes away the panel lines if you use the poor fitting resin parts. Hasegawa could have done this and save money on the resin tips. Dai 

 

428708457_7197627636994131_4536330118920985204_n.jpg

 

429941674_7197627890327439_8285605132441629070_n.jpg

 

428706450_7197628130327415_8966229859055160118_n.jpg

 

430018332_7197627843660777_8539493348237691034_n.jpg

Edited by dai phan
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Greetings,

 

Now ready for the paint job. The illustration of the Flightdecs Luftwaffe paint scheme is vastly different from Hasegawa's. Time to do more research sez I. I did not scribe the wing tip lines as they are painted in different color (yellow or red). Dai 

 

PS: I welcome if anyone can provide me with a credible camo pattern of the JG 71 bird. Many photos have different patterns that are not standardized in anyway. 

 

429792827_7198132726943622_5718857018715579528_n.jpg

Edited by dai phan
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Hi all,

 

Looks like Hasagawa got the colors revered. Grey should be green and vise versa.  Looking at the photos on the Net Flightdecs seems to be more accurate. Dai 

 

419742787_7198379880252240_6131385371570386744_n.jpg

Edited by dai phan
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The first photo is operational and the second is at the Luftwaffe Museum. The second and third seem to be unrestored samples. The demarcation should be very tight but not sharp. Dai 

 

08.jpg

 

Canadair_Sabre_Berlin_Luftwaffen_Museum.jpg

 

Bundeswehrmuseum_Dresden_4.jpg

Edited by dai phan
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On 1/27/2024 at 12:23 PM, Wild Weasel V said:

There's a photo dated September 1961 of JA-120 on page 71 of the Squadron Signal F-86 Sabre Walk Around book #5521. with a natural metal JG71 Sabre in the background. JA-120 is taken from the rear 3/4 aspect but you can clearly see it has the original seat installed.

Thank you so much and I do have the book. The left side of the aircraft in photo does agree with the illustration of the Flightdecs. There are some other photos that may shread the clues on the right side and the top wings. There are variations on the true pattern of the top wings and I am yet to know what it is. The top wing illustration from Flightdecs does not agree with anything I have seen. Dai 

 

429787072_7200637400026488_752115709894070995_n.jpg

 

429805552_7200635843359977_1192902682930575520_n.jpg

 

97fb600723c9a35d42ce07b3cceda60d.jpg

Edited by dai phan
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Greetings,

 

I am holding off on painting the airframe until I get this sorted out. These are the Mr Color call outs according to the Hasegawa instruction. F-86 Expertens do these look right to you? From left to right:

 

MC 330 = Dark Green BS 381C/641, MC 335 = Medium Sea Gray BS381C/637, MC 332 = Light Aircraft Gray BS381C/627

 

429885299_7201159479974280_8766297549020610851_n.jpg

Edited by dai phan
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The upper colors seem to be reasonable in accuracy. The underside color should be silver grey RAL 7001 from what I gather online. What modelling companies  makes this color? Dai 

Edited by dai phan
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Hi all,

 

I found the Luftwaffe Sabre masks by Top Notch in 1/48 scale. They have 2 patterns like Tony pointed out. Looks like the JG 71 had the pattern 1 although they miss the masks on the vertical tail. I am going to use the rolled putty method as the pattern on the mask is not accurate. Dai 

TNM72M067.jpg

M068-Luftwaffe-Sabre-Pat2.jpg

Edited by dai phan
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Greetings,

 

For those who want to do a MK 6 with KASL slats, use the upper F-40 wings as there are panel lines where you need to cut for the slats. Use F-30 lower wings as you will NOT need to correct the span with separate tips. Just cut off the span on the F-40 top wings and install the tips from the kit. That way you only have deal with the top wings/wing tips seams rather than both upper and lower. Also I believe the panel lines on the bottom of the F-30 wings are more accurate for MK 6 than the F-40 wings. Regardless do not use the resin tips as they are too thin and requires lots of putty work. Dai 

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