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My first in-progress posting! :cheers:

After a 15 year wait, somebody Finally released a 1/32 Flanker! I was just coming out of a 5 year hibernation from modelmaking and had to have one.

I began basic construction while waiting for my local hobbyshop to get the Blackbox cockpit. During this time I discovered ARC. Just when my BB pit arrived, I discovered this thread: Trumpeter 1/32 Su-27 ..., How long have we wait...(for a correct canopy). I decided to make my own canopy and post some pics, requests started coming so I decided to start my own company, Zactomodels. That was 5 months ago (and a lot of headaches :cheers: ) and I’ve been too busy to actually build the model since. Future postings here may be few and far between depending upon how busy Zactomodels keeps me.

As mentioned above, I’m using the Blackbox cockpit and the Zactomodels canopy. I’m also using the Zactomodels nosecone (which is just about to hit the market). Otherwise, I’m not sure what other aftermarket stuff or markings I’ll use. When I bought the kit, I had planned to build it OOB, oh well…

BTW the thread mentioned above has grown (32 pages and counting) into a full 1/32 Su-27 reference and Flanker reference site . Most of the aftermarket parts are discussed and pictured there as are details and corrections for the 1/32 kit as well as links to some great Su-27 pics. I’m also continuing to post info on the canopy and nosecone progress there.

:)

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man this is gonna be great (rubbing his hands togeather with glee)

i can hardly wait to get my hands on the nose and canopy sets!!!

that thing is going to look awesome when it is done

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Hi bud,

have you thought about making more sets for Trumpeter's Flankers?

Here are two ideas:

The missiles

The conversion set for Sea Flanker

Double seater conversion set (could be also Su-30MKI conversion set, if you combine with some parts from Sea Flanker)...

Not that I am into 1/32, just wanted to share few ideas....

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How difficult was it (if at all) to mate up the BB pit with your mods with the canopy framing, etc.

Thanks for the nice comments guys!

Hi Smithery,

The main problem fitting the BB parts in the canopy area was the getting the front coaming to fit. It was too wide for either the kit windscreen or the Zactomodels one.

To adapt the rear portion I heated the actuator cover on the rear deck of the BB part to lower its angle a little. This is pictured on page 7 of the big thread: Trumpeter 1/32 Su-27

:cheers:

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Hi zactoman did you recieve my email regarding the undercarriage?

John

Hey John, got your e-mail, hadn’t had time to reply.

“Please explain how you paint your undercarriage. What paints do you use? What colours? Do you preshade? How do you finish them?â€

Landing gear struts, gear wells, and cockpit are all painted similarly (and none are finished yet) as will be most of the rest of the model.

I use Model Master enamels. I mostly mix my own colors according to how I see them. I compare my different reference pics, take into account color variations due to different lighting and different hues due to film processing, and come up with an “averageâ€.

For colors that cover large areas or are used a lot, I’ll mix twice what I need and store it in an empty bottle. Many colors for smaller areas I will tweak right in the color-cup as I’m spraying.

I begin by spraying the main color and getting a good even base-coat.

Then I dump the remaining color out of my color-cup, and without cleaning it, I add Testors Dullcoat, thinner, and a drop of black (sometimes I’ll use a dirtier color, or sometimes I adjust this for different colors, for instance, I’ll add dark brown for yellows, dark blue or purple for whites, etc…). Between the dullcoat, the black, and the remaining color in the cup, I end up with a darkened translucent ‘tint’ version of the original. With this I ‘post-shade’ and spray all the cracks, crevasses and shadowy areas.

Next, I lightly spray the original color to tone down and even things out where necessary. This too can be made into a tint or just thinned and misted depending on how much of the original color you want to restore.

Next it’s a tint using dullcoat, the original, a drop of white Sometimes instead of white I’ll add a lighter, Brighter version of the original as white in some instances can look chalky.

A couple coats of Future allowed to dry 24-48 hours depending on the weather.

Oil wash. I use Windsor-Newton oils thinned with either turpenoid or mineral spirits. Sometimes I mix it thicker and create ‘sludge’ wash as was the case with the gear struts. Parts with lots of detail get a thinner, more controlled application, like the cockpit will. The color of the wash depends upon my mood, sometimes dirty, usually warm grays, or just a blackwash to create harsher shadows.

After the oil wash has sat for a while, long enough for the thinner to dissipate, I remove the excess oil with q-tips and paper-towels dampened with MS or turpenoid. As I remove paint, I use a large soft brush to stipple, spread, and feather-in the remaining oil.

After the oils have dried I do a dry-brush with a lightened version of the original color.

Finally, another clear coat to seal it all and give it a final sheen.

Detail painting can be done both before and after the oil-wash.

:cheers:

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Welcome to ARC Jay! :D

Just stay away from the F-16 threads and you'll be fine! ;)

I'm still considering what to do next. My plan is to scratch-build some unusual subjects in 1/32 and release them as full kits. But there are so many conversions and accesories I'd like to do in 1/32.

I'd love to have an Su-35!

:blink:

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Hi Richy!

It´s been a while since we saw anything coming from your big Hornet? Is it on halt?

/Kristian

(Sorry Zactoman if I "miss-use" your thread.....)

It's OK Kristian (although you could have said my Su-27 looks Awesome!!! :) ), I too am Very anxiously awaiting Richies F-18 progress.

So, what is the story Richy?

<_<

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