chukw

Humidity is probably a factr- wash it off with windex and try again under dryer conditions. Airbrushing might help as well. I'm assuming you read the sticky at he top of this forum?

Not too odd but those sweet little Altoids tins are the perfect size for Q-Tips. My wife figured that one out- good girl!

I'm doing a build review with the Eduard sets- and I really like teeny parts! :)

I'm building the Hase 1/72 and have a lot of teeny barrels to roll. As Old Man said, annealing the PE makes it easier to roll- I heat mine red hot with a mini butane torch (a cigar lighter). I'm going to try rolling them around a piece of music wire on a mouse pad. Wish me luck- it's the gun-nosed H model... :)

Take a look here. It's a license-built CASA airframe but the side guns look authentic. Of course, there were at least three different types of mountings... ;)

The H-6 began production in early '41, so the pit would be 02- if everybody played by the rules...

I built kit # 5509 as an H-10 with a buttload of modifications. I think you can get away with calling yours an H-4,-5 or -6 straight from the kit, but you'll want to check photos of the particular plane you;re building. There were many variations form airframe to airframe, and one source indicated that planes were differently configured to suit specific needs side by side on the production line. Also considering repairs and upgrades, as well as mission need mods (like the external bomb rack), there's wild potential for variations in the details. The Kagero books indicate that the H-1 and

Electric toothbrush modified as detail sander.

Were your ears burning recently? I was walking through the Halifax fuse at the Imperial War Museum in London last week and told my wife that this was the bomber that crazy guy on ARC was scratchbuilding. She looked at the cockpit and agreed that you MUST be crazy indeed. :blink: I think it reassures her that I'm only a low-level nutbag in the world of modelling. Maybe someday I'll be as daft as you- but that's going to take a lot of catching up. This looks better and better- cheers!

I don't use sludge washes, but you can just clean this up by carefully spraying some thinned base color. Always use a protective glosscoat of one kind or another to avoid this sort of thing. Real weathering is composed of a lot of layers of crud building up over time, so just consider this "mishap" to be a part of the process. I use washes, post-shading, pastels and a final spattering of various thinned colors to get a good, well-worn effect. Cheers!

I had that happen- future over Gunze. I just reapplied the Future, it filled the cracks- and no worries!

Washes are easy! Just put a gloss coat down first- that smooth surface allows the thinned colors to flow easily around details. It's best to do do several very thin layers of wash. Start with a general dark tone- black with a hint of you base color. I use oil paints, but acylics or artists' watercolors will do as well. If you 're using water-based paints, touch your brush to an old scrap of soap to break up surface tension. After a basic wash, follow up with specific little touches around details, ribs, etc, using a browner shades. Here's a couple of WIP shots of my AmTech Ta-183.

Beautiful work- cheers!

Fabulous work!

Tamiya works just great as well. I'd suspect it'd work for any kind of paint, acrylic, enamel, etc... Good luck- and it's great for your car windows as well.

Hi, Jose- It's the windshield treatment- comes in a yellow pump-trigger bottle. It's some kind of sillicon in an alcohol solution that dries really fast. I squirt a little bit of the stuff onto a paper towel and wipe your ab needle's tip-then put the tip back in the ab. I was really having a p!sser of a time time trying to get the Gunze to flow- it was drying on the tip. After the Rain X treatment it worked like a champ. Just for the record: I do not work for them...

It's not like making new stubs would be all that tough. Take a strip of styrene the width, sand to airfoil section, slice off lengths. Done and done! <_<

I apply a little Rain-X to the tip of my Iwata Custom Micron B- it's a automotive product that causes rain to just slide off your windows. It also helps keep paint from building up on your AB needle. Here's a pic of my first mottling job- on my AmTech Ta-183:

Awesome job! It looks license-built by Focke-Wulf...

I just painted mine yesterday- cockpit in Dark Green FS34092 and all the rest in Interior Green FS34151, Model Master enamels. I found wartime photos that showed the insides painted, so I went that way. Fun kit, isn't it? I'm adding all the Eduard sets and am writing a build review for Modeling Madness.

Awesome pics, P-38 Guy! How did the RO sit- cross-legged? Knees up? Crampy! :$

Lookin' good! Nice work with the railings- and good luck with the snow. I'll think of you as i watch the bikini girls playing volleyball on the beach... ;D

Sharp needle in a pin vise- he said it! Mission Models has some really sweet little scribing tools that perform like micro-Olfa cutters. They actually cut a fine sliver of plastic out of the surface and work great for straight line cuts. the set includes a great needle-type scriber for round panels, around fuselages, etc.

The sheer awesomeness continues! Phil, you can easily substitute spackling compound for the talc- I've used Red Devil brand for my stick-and-tissue builds for years. It's water-based, super-light (for us free-flight guys) and, while still a giant mess on the sanding end, is way easier to mainpulate at the mixing stage. Cheers- and soldier on, my friend!

I'll join this chorus- well done! I've enjoyed your build photos- maybe I'll try another one... some day!