Jump to content

Paul Mullins

Members
  • Content Count

    415
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Paul Mullins

  1. Shapeways has a Boost Protective Cover and Launch Escape system for both the Dragon 1/48th CM and the Revell kit. I have one for the Revell kit and it fits like a glove if you wanted to save some time. I also simply foiled over the CM in my Revell kit due to similar issues with painting. FYI.
  2. Try candylandcrafts.com for the foil coverings. I've got some and the dark gold appears to be a spot on match.
  3. Does anyone know where I might find a bottle or two of the color Zinc Chromate Yellow? I'm painting the Dragon 1/72 Saturn V and I need that color but I cannot find it anywhere. I've found plenty of Zinc Chromate Green, but not yellow. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  4. I ordered 1/48 scale Apollo Saturn V drawings in March of 2013. Emailed several times. One response about may then nothing.
  5. I'm sorry I should have specified a little better. Don't use the lacquer. Spray Krylon flat. Works like a charm. Smooth as a baby's bottom.
  6. Chuck, I was an Air Force Crash Rescue Firefighter with the 442nd wing at Whiteman AFB Missouri. The 442 flies the A-10. During the time I was there 93/99 I recall the A-10 gear bays all being white. They really stood out from the grey of the aircraft. I think if you use white with the wash you've spoken of it will be fine. Paul
  7. Go to true value hardware and get the Krylon flat white in the large cans. It's about 5 bucks a can and it will take four cans to adequately cover the entire rocket. Paul
  8. I have one of these and I'm working on it now. I can verify that the instructions suck out loud and twice on Sundays. If you get one, you're going to have to do a lot of head scratching to get it right. I don't really care about the inaccuracies, (no nasty comments about that statement please, I know what they are and I can live with them), the kit builds up to a VERY impressive model, but you're going to want to order the aftermarket decals, and a set of drawings from realspace would help as well. Unfortunately, I ordered a set in March and still haven't gotten the drawings. Several emails an
  9. It's beautiful. They want approximately 453.00 for Apollo 11 and Apollo 13 is a little more expensive. Too rich for me. Unfortunately.
  10. What is the best adhesive to use for attaching bare metal foil, (or any other type of foil), to a plastic kit? I get the basics of how to do it, I just don't know which adhesive to use. Any advice would be deeply appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  11. Well, all jokes about small nuts aside, I think I would prefer to have the actual bolts to hold something as large as the 1/72 size stack to a base. Hell, it works for the real thing, why not the model?
  12. Guys, For cladding and cover purposes, Candylandcrafts.com in Somerville New Jersey is a candy making supply house. They sell aluminium foil wrappers in 6 inch by 6 inch sheets. 125 sheets to a package for a little over 7 dollars per package. They have foil in all sorts of colors including that orange/gold color that's so hard to replicate for the LM decent stage, plain gold, silver, and black. I ordered one package of each and paid 37 dollars including shipping. They're in the LM book from the Space in Minature series. FYI HTH Paul
  13. Look up the Battle of Leyte Gulf. The US Navy was opposing three Japanses naval forces. Halsey sailed his fleet north and away from a part of the San Bernadino Strait he was assigned to protect, to atttack what he thought was a large Japanese force containing the last Japanese Carriers with the intent of destroying them once and for all. This is the battle that the message; "Where is task force 34, the whole world wonders" was sent to Halsey. hth
  14. Trust me Bill, You're gonna kick yourself if you do not get one of these kits. If you have the refit 1/350, then it's almost mandatory that you get one of these. It's a dream to work on, and it builds up to what I personally believe is the BEST model ever of the Starship USS Enterprise. The debate over whatever anyone else thinks of the panel lines or lack thereof, what the actual color is or anything else that people are debating over about the Enterprise, is moot. This is the one to have. I have the additional parts if you want them. Paul
  15. Tell you what Bill, you get the regular kit that runs for a little over a hundred dollars and I'll send you the parts I didn't use for the first or second pilot model if you want them. Paul
  16. I have the entire TOS series on DVD. It's the remastered set. I have to say that I really like the remastered version of the Enterprise. The detail that they've been able to add to the ship really makes it stand out. This is the version of what I personally believe that R2 did with this kit. You can see it in the decals they've added that go on the forward underside of the Main Engines. I've been watching the series again to get references on the ship. With the film cleaned up, the sound re-done, and all of the effects shots redone, the shows flow much better. It's kind of like watching direct
  17. Back about 1970 or so, when I was about ten, (I'm 52 now), a friends older brother got a model of the Enterprise that was huge and it came with a lighting kit. I've never been able to find any kind of reference to that kit since then, but lord did I want one. I remember watching the original series when I was six and crying when the series was cancelled when I was nine. I had to get special permission from my parents to stay up to watch it during the third season because it was on so late on Friday nights. Needless to say, I was also a space geek. I watched all of the Apollo missions on tv and
  18. Thanks Guys, I think, since I now have the ship in four big pieces, that I'll paint one engine/pylon Aircraft Grey, the other Flat Gull Grey, the secondary Hull/Sail will get a shot of Flat Aircraft Gray if I can find any, and then the Primary Hull will be the control to see what matches. I'll post photos. I agree about the gloss. Flat is much eaiser and more forgiving to spray than a gloss is, I just go slow and allow 48 hours or more between coats if I'm using gloss enamel on anything. One more point; I used some of the white windows and some of the black windows. I think I'm just going to
  19. Just out of curiosity, why would you not want to use a gloss color out of a rattle can on a model of this size? Broken down into components, this is not any bigger than a 1/32nd F-15. What problems/issues do you forsee. I'm trying to gather as much info as I can. I've always had great sucess using testors rattle cans. But, I'm certainly willing to listen to any ideas. I really want this kit to turn out well. Paul
  20. I think you might be right. I'm going to spray one engine nacelle Flat Gull Grey, and the other Aircraft Grey and then hold them to the hull parts to compare colors. At work this week so I'm slowed down a little.
  21. Nope. In fact. I'm thinking of running a pencil line in them after painting. Still thinking about it though. Got the flat gull grey today. my LHS gave me a 10 percent discount since it was black friday.
  22. Phanthom, Your refit looks great. You do great work. It's good to hear that the refit holds up. I'm working on a 1/350 refit and I was a little worried about it holding up as well. I can tell you that the engineering of the TOS 1701 compared to the engineering of the refit is like night and day. The refit model is downright "creaky" compaired to the solidity of the TOS, even when just fitting large parts together. I think that's the secret as to why it's going toegther so well and so fast. Paul
  23. I spent 21 years the the Air Force myself. I was a Crash Rescue Firefighter so I looked at aircraft from the standpoint of what I needed to cut with a power saw to get people out of them but they were all varying shades of grey as well. But I do miss the original KC-10 white with blue paint job. Flat Gull Grey is the color I'm going to my LHS to pick up tomorrow. (Dang, shopping on black friday. I wonder if they'll give me a discount?)I can start painting the secondary hull, the sail and the warp engines and pylons. May as well keep moving forward. Let me know how the lighting kit and the PE w
  24. I got this image off the interwebz so all credit and rights to whomever made it, published it and all that jazz. I only post it here because I like it a LOT and it represents what I'm going for with this kit. This photo also presents just what an issue the seam is between the upper and lower primary hull plates. This picture is what the hull is supposed to look like vs. what I have going on with the kit right now.
  25. Well, The ONLY problem area I've encountered is the seam between the top and bottom plates of the Primary Hull. I've been slowly adzing the material away with a number 11 xacto blade and have put down some filler to try to close the trench between the two parts. There's not any kind of a gap but it almost seems of the two parts where they meet are at two different angles. A couple of more. In this one, I wanted to show the Bussard Colletcors. Using just paint, I painted the back of the collector Boyd "sunburst". It was going to be international rescue orange but this seemed a little brig
×
×
  • Create New...