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Otto

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About Otto

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    I love to stick my nose in it.

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    http://condormodels.com/

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    US of A IL. Chicago area

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  1. Otto

    Trimaster/DML Vs. old Eduard Fw-190A

    There were a few of them but only one made it into the Czech air force after the war. It just had the German markings and codes painted out and re-marked with the Czech roundels. The one or two photos of it are in black-n-white but it has been represented a few times in color drawings. There are still a few remnants left of it in the museum in Prague. The Czech designation for it was S-90. All I can give you is this from a Czech modeling sight. That is about the best info available. https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18164&hilit=Fw+190+cs
  2. Otto

    Trimaster/DML Vs. old Eduard Fw-190A

    This is the irony. I also posted this on a British website and a Czech website. I have received about a dozen replies on each of those vice the two split replies I have received here on a US website. On the Czech website it is a unanimous Eduard is by far the best and on the British I get mostly DML or that they are both bad . So I just ordered a set of overtrees from the Czech republic for the NEW tool A8 kit. That seams to be getting rave reviews. I don't like to buy Tamiya or Hasegawa kits because they are overpriced.
  3. Otto

    Trimaster/DML Vs. old Eduard Fw-190A

    I have since gotten a lot of honest opinions and have found out that both kits are lousy. Both have some major fit issues and I don't feel like putting a bunch of time into this build. I am not a big German fan and the only reason I am interested is because I can put Czech markings on it in the original German paint scheme. I want to be able and build this thing complete over 2-3 days. Since the best reviews are for the new Eduard A4 kit, I will wait until the new A8 is available and buy a set of overtrees when they are available.
  4. Otto

    Trimaster/DML Vs. old Eduard Fw-190A

    Thanks for the help. I will than get the DML kit.
  5. I attempted to do a search here to find something with no luck. For the low price, I have a chance to buy either the older Eduard Fw-190A or the Trimaster/DML kit. Which is the more accurate of the two, or in general which is better? I am quite sure this must have been covered here before but I just can't find anything. I know that the DML kit has been boxed by many other manufacturers including Italeri, Hasegawa, ProModeler, Revell, and others. I just want to build one just out of the box. No frills and thrills.
  6. At this time I am building a 1/48 Grunau Baby II from Fly Models and needed a "cream" color for it. At first I figured it would be RLM 05 which was prescribed before the war for training aircraft. I bought the Vallejo RLM 05 since that is the only one I could find. It is EXTREMELY yellow. Not really much different from RLM 04. I have seen a few color pictures of German training aircraft from before the war and they looked nothing like the Vallejo RLM 05. So I bought the AK Interactive AK009 "Dunkelgelb" and it looks 1000% better. If it is not right on than it is EXTREMELY close. I think in this case unless someone puts a authentic color chip next to it (which I don't even know it exists) it will definitely pass. The dark greens, RLM 82 and RLM 71 I need for some post war Czech aircraft such as the Czech He-111, He-219, Me-109, La-7 and La-9. The Czechs used the RLM-71 for bombers and RLM 82 for the fighters, under their own paint codes. The Cream and a lot of RLM 02 was also used by the Czechs. Not to mention the underside RLM blues
  7. Since I will not be using Vallejo very much if at all I wont worry about it. I am satisfied with the AK paints though. Now we will see how accurate, if at all they are. Up to this point I have not been impressed at all with the accuracy of the Spanish paints.
  8. As little as I have used these new "Spanish" made paints, I have found that the AK Interactive has the best adhesion better than the MiG and Vallejo paints. The Vallejo paints are actually worse in adhesion than the artists paints I buy at Hobby Lobby. But having said that they still adhere quite well. It still takes a lot of fingernail scratch pressure to scrape them off. The Polly Scale, Model Master. AK, and Agama I can't scratch off with my thumb nail. The Agama and AK paints adhere as well as the old Model Master and Polly Scale paints. Due to good authenticity I will always go to the Agama first.
  9. I have never used a primer under any paint or color on a model. Even though I should have on some yellows. I never found the need to use primer. I mix my own reducer and it also works as a surface wash which helps with adhesion.
  10. First of all there is nothing you can put over enamel but another enamel. That is the main disadvantage. The Tamiya is not a true acrylic. It is an Alcohol based paint. Yes they are much more durable but the colors will never match real world colors. The Modelmaster and Polly scale colors are very good Acrylics but they are all "scale lightened". In their own way, I'm quite sure that all of these paints are fine paints. It just depends on how finicky a modeler is about truth of color. Since I was the SNCOIC in charge of restorations for the Air-Ground team Marine Corps museum in Quantico Va for quite a few years, paint research is an obsession for me. I never give up until all the research is done and verified to the best of my ability. The best place to research the late war German colors is in the Czech republic since most of those colors were used well post war and just renamed with the Czech standards. They are still well documented. They are actually better documented then some of the later paints out of the 70s and 80s when everything went to pot. Russian colors are also very well documented from the earlier periods and so are British to this day. Most of those colors had stricter standards then FS colors have had in the past. I was also in charge of corrosion control in F-4, C-130 and UH-1N squadrons and can testify that I had 5-6 shades of gray on an aircraft that was all supposed to be the same color. Paint colors are just an obsession with me.
  11. Every one of these came from a bottle marked RLM 82. The only one that is right is the darkest one.
  12. The Modelmaster 82 I have is the right shade but just too light. The 83 is a very bright green. Now that you mentioned that, that is exactly what "Vallejo" did. the bottles of RLM 82 I bought, some were actually RLM 83. I never thought of cross-referencing that mistake.
  13. Yes, as dark as 82 is, 83 is even darker.
  14. I will use the Agama paints where I can. Looking at the pictures above, none of them look even close to RLM 82. 82 is actually a very dark green Unfortunately there is no FS comparison I can compare it to. There is no green dark enough on the chart. If I was forced to pick a FS color than it would be 24052 but more green but that dark.
  15. The ModelMaster RLM 82 Is completely off. It has too much white in it. One of the Vallejo RLM 82 bottles is right on, I just wish it did not dry soft and sticky. I just ordered RLM 82 from MIG. We will see how that is. I also have it from Agama and that is also right on. I just ordered six more bottles from Agama. I only have two left. They are only 10cc. By FAR THE BEST German and otherwise European colors are by Agama. None of their tints are lightened. They are mixed in full density hue. It is up to the modeler how much white they want to add to them.
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