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spaceman

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About spaceman

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  1. Thanks Bill, is your PM box full, because I wanted to send you a PM and the answer was: niart17 cannot receive messages. Do you have some more photos of your finished 1/72 Shuttle stack with your outstanding WSF IT, where one also can see the LO2 Press. Line on the LO2 ET? I have only this one from you. BTW, have you printed special Ice/Frost Ramps for the LO2 ET or have you modified the Ramps printed for the LH2 ET? Thanks, Manfred
  2. Hi Bill, but on the occasion the question, how did you remove the wax residuals out of the grooves of your 1/72 WSF Intertank?
  3. Hi Tracy, this Textured Finish looks like that which Bill (niart17) has used for his 1/72 ET. Maybe you mean that? Source: arcforums.com (niart17)
  4. Thanks for your nice help, but I know all these great panoramas. Unfortunately there is none of Challengers's STS-6.
  5. Hey Hoe, thanks for your tips, but I have not tried these stuff yet and I do not know how aggressive it would be in contact with FUD. Volkmar Meier has tested some Chemical liquids successfully, as one can see in this PDF: http://www.trolleyville.com/tv/school/lesson5_6/InstructionsCleaning_light.pdf • medical isopropanol (IPA), applied with a brush • stove cleaning spray • stain remover for clothing, applied with a brush • acetone free nail polish remover, applied with a brush
  6. Hey everyone, an interesting suggestion came from another modeler, after what I should put the IT completely in warm water with a few drops of detergent overnight, about 8 to 10 h. This time should be sufficient for the detergent to soften the bond between the wax and the FUD. Thereafter, the IT should be put into the ultrasonic cleaner to finally detach the residual wax. This "Long pre-soak" Method is known to be used in industry for quite a number of cleaning processes. This Intertank with its many fine grooves seems to be a prime example of a "wax catcher" and therefore obviously needs a combined special cleaning treatment. But I will not let up until I have found a way out, rely on it. Therefore I'm going to try the Pre-soak method (maybe a day or two) with my 1st IT, whereby it actually seems logical that soaked "dirt" can be removed better, as in grandmother's time ... And maybe the brushing out of the grooves with the Dremel brush can also be done under water.
  7. Hello everybody, following a hint in our German Raumcon Forum, I looked in my Dremel accessories and also found a Nylon Rotor Brush and a Nylon Brush, which I have immediately tested at medium speed. In addition to the disadvantage of the many fine grooves, the Intertank has the advantage that it has no protruding small details that can easily break off when brushing, and also it is quite robust. That's why I was able to ride across the grooves relatively easily and smoothly with the rotor brush, whereby it was already visible to the naked eye how the white wax residues gradually disappeared and the grooves slowly became clean, which pleasantly surprised me. While cleaning in the area of the Stringer Panel is relatively easy due to the continuous grooves, one has to do one's best in the subdivided areas of the Thrust Panel. Under the big magnifying glass, one can see more clearly the differences between areas with wax residue and already cleaned areas. And furthermore one can still see that in the two outer areas of the Thrust Panel on the right edge with the little "pockets" still sits a lot of wax, because they are worse reachable with the Rotor brush, which is why I there will try the Nylon brush that will probably get in better there. To be able to see such differences in detail even better, I always apply the following trick. To do this, I paste the photo into a Word document, then I increase the magnification, as shown here e.g. up to 300%, and take a screenshot, which I then upload. This closeness can no longer be captured by the autofocus of my digicam. This is the maximum possible closeness, if the image is still to become halfway sharp. And here I've tested the Nylon brush, and I have to say that does not look too bad. The cleaned area stands out clearly from the rest of the area, whereby one must consider that this IT was already 1 h in the ultrasonic bath.
  8. Thanks Mike for your hint, I have always seen this video last night. Next I'll check out the Pre-soak Method with my 1st IT, whereby it is actually obvious that soaked "dirt" can be removed better, as in grandmother's time ...
  9. Welcome Brian, so far, I was careful and used only lukewarm water with a dash of dishwasher detergent. But maybe I should take hot water (?) and a little more dishwasher detergent, especially since FUD is heat resistant up to 80°C / 176°F , according to Shapeways. BTW, an interesting suggestion came from another modeler, after what I should put the IT completely in warm water with a few drops of detergent overnight, about 8 to 10 h. This time should be sufficient for the detergent to soften the bond between the wax and the FUD. Thereafter, the IT should be put into the ultrasonic cleaner to finally detach the residual wax. This "Long pre-soak" Method is known to be used in industry for quite a number of cleaning processes.
  10. Hi Bill, what a nice surprise that you are looking in on me after a longer time. I wanted to write you a PM already and ask you about your experience with cleaning your prints, especially with your Shuttle Intertank (1:72), printed in WSF. How did you manage to remove all residual wax from the grooves? I think it might have been a bit easier than with my 1:144 IT with its finer grooves. BTW, here is a vivid video Cleaning Process Comparison: MJM vs PolyJet by PCSEngineering about the sequence of postprocessing steps of MJM 3D prints.
  11. Thanks for these very helpful PDFs. All I have to do now is to clench my teeth to get a handle on the cleansing of the IT with its seemingly 1.000 grooves, what is a rather tough nut to crack. But step by step, I am moving forward to break through these obstacles too ...
  12. Hey everyone, meanwhile, I have received the third IT, which makes a much better figure than the first two, and fits also better between the two ET parts, as one can see here. And here the LOX Feedline from the Revell Stack was laid down experimentally. As my remeasurement has shown, but no shrinkage seems to have occurred, so one would probably get along without the 0.8% addition. Then I started with the tests for ultrasonic cleaning of the IT, for what I used the 2nd IT. To grope me step by step to the required cleaning time, I have each set the longest interval (600 sec.), which was repeated several times in succession. First, I put the IT on the rear end and cleaned it in from this side a total of 30 minutes, with about 80% were immersed. After this first cycle, the water looked rather cloudy, and was therefore renewed for the cleaning of the other side, which then also took 30 min.. After that the IT looked like this, whereby one could see at a closer look but still wax residues in the grooves, which is why half an hour apparently was not enough. Therefore, I helped along with the electric toothbrush under running water, because the fine grooves between the stringers are obviously the purest wax catchers, which I had already feared. But since even after this action still small wax remains were to be seen, then I grabbed the cutter and went on carefully further cleaning out the interspaces, which is also quite effective, as can be seen at the stripped off residues on my thumb, as well as at the cutter tip. This stuff seems to sit so firmly in the grooves, so one will need much longer cleaning times in the ultrasonic bath, as initially suspected. Therefore, I've added another pass of 30 min., which now gives a total cleaning time of 1 h, after which the water is always still cloudy. But as one can see at these photos, there are still areas with more or less wax residue. That immediately reminded me again of the 3-4 h cleaning time in the BANDELIN-Video during cleaning a FUD chain ... So I will either extend the cleaning time still significantly, or sometimes have to try Aceton, or are there any ideas of the Shapeways experts here in the forum?
  13. Therefore one must clean the prints very carefully, but intensively.
  14. Hey everyone, here's a stunning Time-lapse Video of a LEGO freak who has set to work but beware friends: Addictiveness !!! One needs only approx. 4.600 bricks, and in the answers one finds estimates for the price (Robert Feiner), which amounts to approx. 1.300 EUR. BTW, the ingenious designer of this LEGO-LUT is Bailey Fullarton, who should not remain unmentioned. And here is a suitable photo from a contribution by Simon Wiens, who has also built this awesome display.
  15. Hello everybody, today with a short update from the Shapeways Team. I just could not stand for this contradiction regarding the FUD tolerances and I asked the friendly Shapeways lady, who initially wanted to give me only a lapidary, meaningless answer , to explain this dilemma to me. Thereupon was it confirmed by a production colleague that the maximum accuracy that SW can achieve at FUD is actually 0,4 mm, and that the SW guidelines should be adapted, to what one would now work on. Well at least something for which my effort has been worthwhile, although still to this day one finds the unchanged previous precision specification of ± 0,1 - 0,2 mm for every 100 mm ... Meanwhile, the third IT is on its way to me, and I'm curious what it will look like. In the meantime, I've looked around a bit on the SW pages and now I can better imagine the matter with the Support wax, whereto I have found this nice image at the end of the FUD website with the following explanation. Source: www.shapeways.com/materials/frosted-detail-plastic And remnants of this stuff one has still to remove off afterwards from the printed parts, although the cleaning at SW actually belongs to the standard procedure, but what is apparently not quite enough. On this site you will also find an interesting Video in which the individual steps of the multi-stage production process are clearly presented by a SW production engineer. After printing, the models are placed in a freezer to help detaching the parts, and then into an oven, where the wax base melts. Then they are placed first in an ultrasonic oil bath and subsequently in an ultrasonic water bath to remove residual wax and oil residues, and finally, after thorough water rinsing, they are dried and finally tested. Here is an image of the second IT, which looked a bit cleaner than the first one. The traces of grease on the paper show, that remnants of the wax/oil remains for the customer unfortunately, here during the sunbath of the two ITs for the allegedly necessary complete curing of uncured microscopic resin areas under UV light, which was proposed by a shapeways designer named Model Monkey, who is presenting some useful tips (FAQs) on how to use Shapeways prints.
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