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spaceman

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About spaceman

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  1. Hello everybody, well then, let's start 2019 with fresh power and full motivation. In the old year I had still registered in the Dental laboratory ChiliDent for another ultrasonic cleaning, in order to clean the Early LWT Intertank (FUD) of the support wax. Last Friday I visited the Dental lab, wherefore I packed not only the IT but also all Track Shoes and Main Sprockets, in order to speak about their still pending cleaning. The cleaning in the ultrasonic bath took place again under the same conditions as the first time with TICKOPURR 60 (20 %) at approx. 70 °C, whereby I turned the flat lying IT every half hour by 180°. In the interim, I've read further in Scott Phillips's book Remove Before Flight, which I can really recommend because it's easy , and was even provided by the nice guys with espresso and fresh soda. Here is an image of the IT after 2 h cleaning, on which unfortunately one can not see too much, at least but so much, that still some areas remained with wax residues, so cleaning was continued for a total of 4 h. After that, the IT had adopted the familiar white color, which is generally a sign that all wax remains are removed and the IT is completely cleaned, which can be seen very nicely in these images. And with this result, I was then more than satisfied and could ride home after appointment for the next cleaning. And here are a few shots of the clean IT after my return, on which one also can recognize well the details of the Close-outs. And even in the provisionally installed state, the IT looks really good. Here again for comparison the uncleaned tank after Shapeways' delivery, which this time, unlike previous prints, had strangely felt rather oily, which I was wondering about. Now this IT really fits to the original Lightweight Tank (LWT) ET-8, as flown for the first time during STS-6, which finally satisfies me absolutely - All's well that ends well.
  2. Hello everyone, let's go on and try the same technique to the wheel rims. The overhanging foil was easy to separate off by holding the cutter blade at the outer verge of the ring and then slowly turning the wheel through step by step. But unfortunately, the inner verge did let not separate in the same way, because the cutter there has slipped away always and produced no clean cut. So I've modified the technique a bit by first cutting out a circle with the inner diameter of the ring with a cutting compass (but within a larger piece of foil), and then carefully placing this piece of foil with its hole onto the wheel rim. That was extremely tricky, because the foil is very thin and warps quickly when detached, but then with a steady hand I yet still succeeded finally and was happy. Then the overhanging foil was separated off as previously described, and after the foil ring was tenderly smoothed with my soft fingers and a Q-tip the result looked pretty good. So far for today, and thanks for still staying tuned.
  3. Thanks Jeff for looking in on me, yeah, it goes into the final round, I already can see the light at the end of the tunnel ...
  4. Hello everybody, in the same way, meanwhile I have also glued the windows of the lower deck into the body, and then all sliding windows on both sides were glued on. The installation of the lower deck with the complete chassis into the body was a similar difficult and stressful matter as with the upper deck and could be proceeded only slowly and very carefully, but has finally succeeded. Afterwards the inner connections between the chassis and the body were glued together in the same way as before with the upper deck. Thereby the hardest part of the job was done, and so I was able to turn to various decor details of the body. When looking at various photos, I've seen that there is a metal-colored guide rail on the driver's door, which is disregarded in Revell's construction manual. As a result, I've carefully removed the red paint there and painted it silvery. Source: londonseite.de Then there were still to paint and install the rearview mirrors and flashing lights, as well as the headlights on the hood and the taillights. For bordering of the lights as well as for the rings on the front wheel rims and the frame of the radiator grill, Source: londonseite.de I've used Chrome Bare-Metal Foil, but the application of which was not easy and required some practice. The trickiest part of it was the the bordering of the radiator grill, what one can see in the following images. At first I tried an application with narrow stripes, but what I've soon discarded, because this method is too complicated ... Then I've covered the entire grill surface with a foil piece, which was carefully pressed onto the grill, and then the contours were cut out with greatest cautiousness with a new cutter, and lastly all was gently smoothed using a toothpick and Q-tip. And with this result I was reasonably satisfied. Next will follow the rings on the wheel rims ...
  5. spaceman

    1/24 GEMINI 9A part 2

    Thanks Pete for the nice Tool show ...
  6. spaceman

    1/24 GEMINI 9A part 2

    Thanks guys, what that is, I also know, more helpful would be a link to the provider, but I think, that Pete can help ...
  7. spaceman

    1/24 GEMINI 9A part 2

    Hi Pete, what is this for a great tool, where did you get it?
  8. Hello everybody, the gluing of the upper deck in the body turned out to be the expected difficult matter, because it was very close, and especially at the rear end of the body the last inches could be pressed downwards only with difficulty, but still with the utmost care. Only then the inner connections between the upper deck and the body were glued together without ruffle or excitement ... So that all places glue together well, I have ballasted the body with two books and let dry everything for some time. Afterwards I have glued the cover onto the lower deck. Thanks for looking in.
  9. Hi Mike, the windows I have glued into the body some days before shipping, therefore I think, that the superglue had cured completely and there sould be no further fogging, hopefully ...
  10. Thanks Mike, then the panes should fog up no longer later, I hope ...
  11. Hi Mike, before packing the bus into the box for shipping, I've cleaned the windows again, after which they were shining. Then I have to ask Thomas' wife how the windows look meanwhile, otherwise she has to clean them once again ... BTW, how long does Micro Kristal Klear need to dry?
  12. Hi Mike, about this effect I did know nothing so far, do these fumes arise only as long as the superglue is liquid or even longer? Thanks Slartibartfast, good to know how to prevent this mishap.
  13. Thanks Mike for your tips on suitable window adhesives, I have also some of them in my stock, but I have used this superglue from Pattex, which worked well. First, I wanted to glue in the windows only in the upper deck, and then glue the upper deck with the seats into the body. Because the panes immediately have to fit exactly in the frame when gluing in with superglue, I've thought of a special method ... In order to be able to hold the panes when gluing in and simultaneously position exactly in the frame, I came up with this simple Tape-holder sitting on a piece of Balsa. For this I took up the liquid Pattex superglue with a paperclip and painted it into the window frame and then carefully pressed the pane by means of the Tape-holder into the frame, and then removed the holder softly. And this procedure has worked very well. Here one can see the body with the glued-in upper deck and the windows. Only the sliding windows are still missing, which will follow as next. That would get done and looks well so far.
  14. Hello everybody, yeah, to do it instantly better and more exactly is not tricky, if one knows, how the windos look actually. Accordingly, one should paint the strip with the latch on the large pane silver and for the sliding windows only the side guides, since the lower edge is frameless, and the upper edge in the closed state sits under the small roof and is invisible, as one can see clearly on this close-up. But afterwards one is always smarter ... Source: londonseite.de Strictly speaking, the lower window pane of all these windows, which can be opened, should only extend until just above the lower edge of the sliding window, which Revell probably did not carry out faithfully for reasons of an easier installation. And on this close-up one can see another window detail that looks a bit odd in the Revell kit, and also the decal is missing, which explains the window as an Emergency Exit. Source: londonseite.de On the photo one can see the inner locking device and the outer bolt handle. Since this window did not fit into the opening, I had to cut out the frame a little bit at the point of the handle and attach the handle additionally from the outside on the pane. With this knowledge, it should actually continue with the installation of the windows, but then there was the next unpleasant surprise. Unfortunately, during the test fitting of some windows, I realized that they did not fit exactly into the window openings, but were a bit too large. This was probably the consequence of multiple painting of the body, first with the Ferrari Red 34, and then with the clearcoat. Therefore, these windows had to be painstakingly sanded, until they did fit. In addition, I had to think carefully now in which order and with which adhesive I should the sensible windowpanes stick best into in the upper and lower deck, so as not to do any damage ...
  15. Hello everybody, and now to the windows of the Revell Kit, which take a little getting used to and gave me some puzzles in the beginning. Initially, I've only followed the construction manual and only later realized that the structure of the windows compared to the original contains some discrepancies and errors that were not considered in the construction reports known to me either. In addition to closed windows with a continuous window pane, there are also windows in the bus, the upper narrow part of which can be opened. These can be seen in the model based on the silver-colored frame, while the other windows should have black rubber seals, which can be seen in the following image. Although this shot looks like a real outdoor photo, it is a model skilfully photographed by the builder (Alex2410) against the backdrop. Source: britmodeller.com (Alex2410) Here is a model by Guido Kehder, which I personally like especially because of its clean modeling and amazing design, on which one can see these silver framed upper windows too. Source: die-leitplanke.de (Guido Kehder) If one takes a closer look at the kit's windows now and compare it with the construction manual, one will see that these windows consist of a pane that is glued into the window opening, onto which the narrow upper window section is glued then. This lower pane has a silver stripe (C), on which a fire-red latch (H) should sit, but this is not existing on any original photo, because these parts are also metallic. Since this silver strip comes to lie directly above the lower silver frame of the upper window when mounted, that somehow would look strange in my view, which is why on these windows I masked only the latch and painted it silver, which was quite plodding. On the occasion, some of the reordered small parts I still have painted by hand. In addition, I was more and more in stress, because I really wanted to finish the bus before Christmas, to be able to send him in time to Thomas' wife, wherefore haste was required. Only later I've seen on photos like this one with opened windows, that these windows are executed differently, which I have not corrected no longer however due to lack of time. Accordingly, the upper narrow parts are sliding windows that can be slid down after unlocking. Source: londonseite.de Thereto, how one can instantly do it better and more exactly, will to be seen in the next post.
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