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Yuri

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About Yuri

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    I'm feeling supersonic...
  • Birthday 07/21/1974

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    Somewhere in Italy

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  1. More or less 70x70cm. You can spare some space by building the wings fully swept back..... however it's an uncommon way to have it parked. I remember reading somewhere that it would tip over... anyway it's a possible configuration with either a jack under the tail (during maintenance) or maybe for an unfuelled plane. In fact if you look on google earth there's one Tu-160 parked that way at the Kazan factory (lower left of the airfield). Seems one of the unpainted development airframes (maybe grey 29).
  2. Not the Trumpeter (which is in the pile of kits to build), but I'm at the final construction stages of the earlier A-Model Tu-160. As for painting..... it shouldn't be such a difficult job.... with time and a lot of paint :) I plan to use tamiya white with some preshading to give it some texture
  3. Thanks to all, your suggestions make sense. I tried adding some white to light ghost gray (more or less 15% as the scale effect "rule" say for 1/72) and it's much better to my eye... I'll try it on a scrap model and see how it looks....
  4. Hi all, I'm a bit puzzled by Mig-29 colors. When I did my first Fulcrum, years ago, I used the model master paints. The light gray is more or less a semigloss light gull gray (26440) that looked nice on the model.... maybe just a bit too light ad yellowish, but colors on soviet planes tend to fade quickly so it was ok. Now, in the last years a number of other paint brands started to sell MiG-29 colors, I tested Akan and MRP, but the gray is much darker... close to light ghost gray (36375). Looking at photos it definitely seems too dark to me, at least for an 1/72 plane. I never understood if "scale effect" for paint is real or just a modeller's legend, anyway.... could it be that these paints are correctly matched to "factory fresh" color chips, but look too dark for an operational bird? What's your thought?
  5. Thanks a lot, very clear. In fact I suspected the "problem" was the fixed lip of the louvers, but I think in 1/72 it's almost impossible to spot. So I'll make new ones from scratch. As I said, I'm in a Flanker mood.... just decided to finish that Airfix kit that has been in the boneyard for the last 20 years I think.... it didn't need so much work after all.... I'm doing some surgery to be able to fit the Pavla vacform windscreen (almost done with some serious trimming here and there), then I can pass it to the paint shop. In the meanwhile I had the Hasegawa kit bought more or less in the same years and I wondered "why not?"...... and would you avoid making a better Flanker with a more recent (and accurate) kit? So I just got the Trumpter too... So.... seems I will build 3 Flankers in a row.... maybe 🙂 hope to finish at least one..
  6. Hi guys I'm in a "flanker" mood and just got the Trumpter 1/72 Su-27.... nice model... however I'm a bit puzzled by the intake louvers.... I seem to remember that there were a dozen or so, but Trumpeter parts show a much higher number of louvers (20 or so). Fixing it wouldn't be a great deal: it's a separate part, so it's just a matter of taking a piece of plasticard and scribe the louvers, but I'd like to know if I remember correctly or not.... Thanks
  7. Hi guys, I'm back from a long hiatus.... and it's great to see most of the people I knew are still here... Anyway, I decided to finally finish an old Airfix Flanker I started years ago that was still waiting in my personal boneyard.... Most of the fuselage is now ok, (so much putty!) but now, as the pylons and clear parts are not so good, I decided to kitbash these parts from an Hasegawa Flanker (in fact I have both an Hasegawa and the Revell reissue, so the next built will be one of them... and many spare parts!). With some surgery, the windscreen will finally fit, however the irst seems a bit too bulky to me. I could remove and replace it with a thinner one, but as part of its structure is in what shoud be the clear part, I wonder if someone has already done this surgery succesfully. Thanks
  8. Double action. Pulling the trigger the needle moves back, but no paint at all. All the other nozzles (tan, white & gray) work well, but not the black....
  9. Hi all, I have a strange issue with the aztek black nozzle (acryl one). It simply doesn't spray paint. I tried to disasseble it, clean and all but still doesn't spray. When I press the trigger, the air comes out, put no paint. I even tried simply water and no, doesn't work, but if I put a finger on the nozzle to backflush, the air comes back to the paint cup, so the "channels" are open... Has this ever happened to you? (it's a lot of time I have it, but never used it.... so I don't remember it ever working).
  10. Well, I suppose it's a way to say "Hey, look, we have planes capable of doing this kind of things, for some years after the collapse of Soviet Union we had to stay on the ground because of this and that, now we're back".
  11. Yes and no. Usually if a paint is well cured there shouldn't by any problem coating one brand with another.... but you never know.... better try it first on some scrap plastic.
  12. That's the same thing I was going to say.... Btw, Kotey, if you ever need an italian translation (even if I don't see why you should) drop me a line :)
  13. Medium gray plastic is very useful when building a kit: it's a lot easier to see if parts are well aligned and smooth. Polished white instead hides a lot of issues that can then turn out when paint is applied. Anyway, for areas that need to stay white, most enamels tend to turn yellow to some degree with age.... it should be something related to UV light (same problem for clearcoats). Acrylics should all be immune to the problem, so I suggest you to try gunze (now mr hobby) or tamiya.
  14. Yeah, parts breakdown is really strange......
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