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sting

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Everything posted by sting

  1. I make my own using a mix of liquid dishwashing soap and (Elmers) white wood/paper glue. Water to thin if needed. Let dry and apply the paint. To remove I use a wooden toothpick to raise an edge and peal it off with tweezers or sometimes the adhesive side of masking tape to remove larger pieces. There will most likely be an oily looking residue, but it’s soap and clean up is easy with a moist cloth or tissue.
  2. After reading all these comments from the "people in the know", I recommend the USAf go back to flying hot air balloons. Thanks for the laughs guys. I needed them.
  3. I was wondering what fire did with those fuselages. Our sheriff's air unit is currently occupying the hangar these poor birds use to call their home. I took numerous walkaround photos of the cobras, but couldn't see much of the Huey. Thanks for posting.
  4. Try www.ACIG.org It's a web site dedicated to air combat and there are pretty comprehensive records of the air to air victories/losses of the American and No. Vietnamese.
  5. Here's a link to the Pensacola Air Museum's web site. The link will open to the museum's virtual tour and panoramic view of cockpits. It's probably not the exact ones you're requesting, but nice nevertheless. http://www.navalaviationmuseum.org/explore/exhibits-and-collections/cockpit-panoramas
  6. Hi Eric, The composite wing Intruders had a different wing hinge cover from the metal wing Intruders. Also, the weapons pylon directly below the hinge was different too. The only reference to the composite wing hinge I had at the time were hinge covers on the EA-6B Prowlers. They are similar, but I'm not sure they are exactly the same. It appears the Prowler's hinge covers set up higher or in other words thicker? I'm not sure, so my hinge covers may be wrong. Anyway, the wing hinge covers were replaced with what you see on the model. The weapons pylon bulge on the outside where it lines up wi
  7. I had this build on the back burner for some time and finally got around to finishing it. I made the following pieces specifically for Revell's Intruders & Prowlers and made multiple copies for future builds: Hard Intake Covers Hard Exhaust Covers FLIR Turret Composite Wing Hinge Fold Composite Wing Weapons Pylons Hard Covers For AGM-65 & AGM-88 Missiles The raised panel lines were scribed, crew ladder rebuilt and the in-board top wing strakes were replaced and repositioned. Decals consist of left overs from the stash, but I made the tail markings myself in Photoshop and clear i
  8. I used very fine fingernail polishing sticks to polish the plastic before I dipped them into Future. The polishers are the type you find in salons where women get their nails manicured. They are designed to polish and polish they do. I was surprised at the rainbow effect myself. There was no skill involved, so I guess I just got lucky.
  9. Thanks Chuck! You are absolutely correct and I never noticed it until you pointed it out. I'll watch out on my next Hornet build.
  10. I've tried regular paint thinner (mineral type)and lacquer thinner. The regular thinner works, but to me, it cures too slowly for my tastes. The lacquer thinner works fine to, but it can be too hot for some plastics. I don't know what Testors recipe is in their airbrush thinner, but it has the right combination I seek. I try to save every speck ofpaint I can. I can thin some MM paint, spray what I need of it and pour it back into the MM jar to use again. I know, to some, that's a no-no, but It's been working for me for years. I do this knowing I'll have to use that jar, mixed with the thinned
  11. Thanks for the comments guys. I have plans to do another 1/32 "A" in the near future, but from VFA-151 Vigilantes stationed aboard the USS Midway during ODS.
  12. I only use MM enamel paint and have been for many, many years. I've tried other brands, but I always went back to MM enamels. As you said, their flats are indeed flat, but I can't find anything else to match the quality and choice of colors. The negative, in my opinion, is I have to use Testors airbrush thinners for enamels to thin MM paints. It can be expensive, but the results can't be beat.
  13. I finished this kit last month. I used the Avionix F-18A "backdate" cockpit and vertical tails set. The vertical tails needed some work to get a tight fit. The cockpit's fit was perfect except for the insturment panel. The panel had chunks of resin on it that made it impossible to use, so I used the upper portion of Academy's "A" version insturment panel included in the kit and fit it to avionix's lower portion of the panel. Paint was Testors Model Master enamels and metalizers. Weathering consists of pre-shading, spot-painting and chalk. Decals are SuperScale. I read the book Hornets Over K
  14. Here's a link to Revell model instructions you can download in PDF. Scroll down toward the bottom of the page/list and you'll see the F-18C instructions (85-5864). http://www.revell.com/support/instructions.html
  15. Beautiful Viper!! Man that jet is sexy isn't it?!! You're weathering is great and the ladder's weathering is impressive, it looks real!!
  16. Overall, it was a fun build. The shark mouth decals didn't want to cooperate, but I managed to get them on without them looking too bad.
  17. Academy 1/32 Viper with TwoBobs decals from Pope AFB. I did this same scheme several years ago using a Hasegawa F-16A+ kit with CE's resin big mouth intake before Academy or Tamyia released their 1/32 Vipers. I also replaced the IP cover which makes Academy's Viper a lot better to look at with the canopy open. I debated about putting the pilot in the bang seat, but Academy's pilot is so well done I thought I'd go ahead. I made the 74th FS patch on the pilot's left shoulder, but it didn't settle down very well. Warning: Picture Heavy!!
  18. I had the same problems when I started making parts. One thing you can do is dip an old paint brush into the resin and use the brush to get the resin into the small areas of the mold it has problems flowing into. Of course you have to work fast, but after using the paint brush and you're satisfied you worked the resin into the small areas, pour the rest of the resin into the mold. The resin applied with the brush and the resin poured in aferward will combine for a solid mold. Even if the resin cures, after brushing it into the small areas, before you can pour the rest into the mold, you can mi
  19. I considered contacting Joe at Fireball, but I spoke to other decal manufacturers and their quotes were way more than we were willing to pay. There would have to be a lot of other modelers interested in building the sheriff's helicopter, so I figured the same would be with Fireball. I don't know the guy at Code 3, but my buddy and co-worker does and he did us a favor by designing and printing the decals for the sliding doors. The price was right and he made enough decals for twenty models, so I have plenty for the other models to be built. The badge he made for the small, hinged doors didn't m
  20. As you requested. I have to make one of these models for each of the members of my unit for a total of 12. I carved the hoist from a small block of resin after taking measurements from our hoist on the helicopter. The skid cross-tubes are made from wire coat hangers. I also moved the tail rotor on the other side of the vertical stab. I made the decals myself and as you can tell, the Kern County Sheriff on the sliding doors is hand painted. Another member of the unit and I chipped in and had a friend of his make professional decals for the Kern County Sheriff. His friend owns a web site, Code 3
  21. Thanks for the pics Ray. I'm not familiar with Mac, but I didn't fly back there to pick it up either. We were sent a few pics, but the ones you posted are new to me. Thanks again! Kevin
  22. If anyone is interested in building the Huey II, Panda (now Dragon) makes the 1/35 UH-1N. There is an option to build a single engine Huey in the kit. I scratch built the aftermarket particle separator filters, skid cross tubes, Goodrich rescue hoist and skid steps.
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