Nicolaas Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 I've got 4 models with raised panel lines... Any tips on how to do it? I'm pretty much clueless. :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PlasticWeapons Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Here's a how-to from David Aungst: http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/rescribingda_1.htm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Big Kev Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Here's another couple of tutorials, firstly by Charles Metz at the IPMS Stockholm site: http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/1999...ch_scribing.htm And another by yours truly at LSP: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=32316 Kev Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nicolaas Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 Thanks! Started this morning with the first one. So far so good Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thegoodsgt Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 (edited) Do a search here in the Tools 'n' Tips area for scribing. There are a ton of great discussion threads that will offer a lot of advice on tools and techniques. I can assure you that 95 percent of scribing is very easy. It's the 5 percent (scribing around curves) that's challenging. And then...practice, practice, practice! Edited February 8, 2011 by thegoodsgt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TonyT Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 (edited) People on Britmodeller swear by dyno tape. it can be stuck to the model and is thick enough to give you a straight edge to scribe too. Edited February 8, 2011 by TonyT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pigsty Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 People on Britmodeller swear by dyno tape. it can be stuck to the model and is thick enough to give you a straight edge to scribe too. Not all of us! Dymo tape is designed to be stuck to flat surfaces and I generally find it hasn't enough tack to go round tight curves. For that, masking tape is often enough. The edge isn't very proud but if you make a very shallow first pass, that's not a problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pierre Sacha Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Hi there, Recently started on my Testors SR-71 and started using a thicker variety of electrical insulation tape. This stuff is great and can be used on some very "bendy" shapes. As Pigsty said though, first few passes - go very light on the pressure! Regards Pierre Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peebeep Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Dymo tape is designed to be stuck to flat surfaces and I generally find it hasn't enough tack to go round tight curves. Cut it into thin strips and it has a better chance of staying stuck down. peebeep Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Britaholic Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 (edited) I always use Dymo tape but I cut it into thinner strips (2-3mm), this makes a roll last longer and gives more flexibility, for curved lines I use a set of Airwaves curved scribing templates, either to tape to the model or to measure against the existing panel lines and then used to cut out the correct curve in Dymo tape. When using templates it is a must that they are taped to the model, I also, where possible use existing raised panel lines to guide my scribing tool. Cheers Den Edited February 11, 2011 by Britaholic Quote Link to post Share on other sites
balls47 Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 (edited) If a model has raised lines, personally, I don't re-scribe. I usually just sand them down until they are hardly visible. After painting, decaling, etc., there is still a shadow of a line and that's good enough for me. Have fun. Edited February 11, 2011 by balls47 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tbell Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 One tip not mentioned in the linked articles is to stick your dymo or electrical tape to a piece of Tamiya masking tape. The Tamiya tape's adhesive is much less aggressive than that of either Dymo or electrical, allowing it to be placed and moved over and over. I also can't stress enough how much easier it makes things if you heed Kev's advice about brushing each scribes line with liquid cement. Cheers, Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nicolaas Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 Yep I've scribed a few lines without the cement and I see your point hehe. Thanks for all the advice! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawkeye's Hobbies Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 You might want to read this post http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2011/02/10/s...-straight-line/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawkeye's Hobbies Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 And this one which is part II http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2011/02/12/s...e-guiding-edge/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neo Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 i like this tutorial also clicky Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Felix Lucius Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 Cut it into thin strips and it has a better chance of staying stuck down.peebeep +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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