scotthldr Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Hi all, I know this has been covered in depth before and have read the reviews etc etc... however none seem to answer my question. How well is the Kinetic kit next to a Hasegawa F16? I'm not interested in whats in the box or how it builds up but more how it looks side by side when finished. Scott Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bobski Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Hi all, I know this has been covered in depth before and have read the reviews etc etc... however none seem to answer my question. How well is the Kinetic kit next to a Hasegawa F16? I'm not interested in whats in the box or how it builds up but more how it looks side by side when finished. Scott Aside from the slight droop of the nose on the Kinetic kit I think it looks as good if not better than the Hasegawa kit when the finished articles are placed next to each other. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dedalus Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 The Hasegawa kit (isn't it like 20 years old) is still the better option in most respects. The details are much crisper, while the Kinetic kit has panel lines that are more like panel trenches and yet soft as well. The Kinetic kit has shape issues, even though the second generation of them, they tried to fix the nose droop--they only changed the shape, not fixed it. The Kinetic does have a more detailed gear bay, while the Hasegawa is quite sparse. Personally, I would prefer the Kinetic because it has more detail, but that detail is too soft. The Kinetic does come with more weapons, too. Some will say the Kinetic is better, but it's a choice you need to make yourself. Then there's the cost. The Hasegawa kit can be found all over, and at shows, it can be had for $15 or less. The Kinetic kit a lot more. That's why if it's a -C, you're best off with a Tamiya kit. If it's a -D, you're better off with a Tamiya kit and a Hasegawa kit for the parts to convert it. If it's a -A or -B, the Tamiya conversion gets more complicated and you have to wrestle with this Hase vs. Kinetic question. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dagger00 Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I`ll make it easy for you....Kinetic all the times...Hasegawa is a 20 years old mold, with only some aa missiles, search in google, there was a post of a modeler (I can`t remember where I saw it) with pics comparing the Tamiya, the Kinetic and the Hasegawa one...make your own conclusion, I did mine after watching it and having the 3 kits in my hand...as I`ve told you before..Kinetic, JMHO. Best, Juan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scotthldr Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 Thanks for all the replies guys. I should've made myself clearer, the reason for asking is that I have a completed Hellenic F16D Blk52 which was built from the Hasegawa/CMK conversion, and I now want to add a F-16C Blk52 to sit next to it. Will the quality difference/overall appearance be noticeable either way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grenadier37 Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I have the Kinetic Helenic kit and it looks fine to me. BUT I'm not a rivet counter, and I say if it looks like a duck, and quacks like a duck and flys like a duck, it must be an F-16... The real question is...can you have too many F-16 kits? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scotthldr Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 I've seen it mentioned that Kinetic have based their kit on the Tamiya version, therefore would the Aires Cockpit for the Tamiya fit the Kinetic one? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BK974 Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I have had the privilege to build 6 Kinetic f-16's the last year. And I do like the kit a lot. In the first kit I struggled with a few issues, but now It is all good. When I put the Kinetic Viper next to the Hase, I get a feeling that the Kinetic kit does look better. It looks somewhat more "agreesiv". I cannot explain why. So far the Aires stuff I have bought that fits a Tamiya, fits the Kinetic with minor tweeks! FO Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I'd have to pass on the Aires pit, they did some mods to the Hasegawa master to make it fit the Tamiya kit, it really shows badly at the forward part of the glare shield. I think I would just add a ejection seat and save to money for something else. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jennings Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 (edited) The Hasegawa kit (isn't it like 20 years old) I graduated college in December '83, and I had one in my hands before I graduated :) I'd make that 28 years old! Edited June 21, 2011 by Jennings Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maly149 Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 (edited) at spruebros they dont have the hsg f-16i, and E. you's have to get the I from LM, the E from HLJ. kin-51.00+shipping. for an in-flight i would pick haegawa unless you have an extra pilot, for gear down i would take KIN. a c if tamiya, hands down. Edited June 21, 2011 by maly149 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dedalus Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Thanks for all the replies guys. I should've made myself clearer, the reason for asking is that I have a completed Hellenic F16D Blk52 which was built from the Hasegawa/CMK conversion, and I now want to add a F-16C Blk52 to sit next to it. Will the quality difference/overall appearance be noticeable either way. Well, then the answer is simple--get the Tamiya kit. The only (possible) justification I see for building something other than the Tamiya kit is that you want a -A or a two-holer. But you can get a block 52 -C kit out of the box with Tamiya, so why shop anywhere else? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Well, then the answer is simple--get the Tamiya kit. The only (possible) justification I see for building something other than the Tamiya kit is that you want a -A or a two-holer. But you can get a block 52 -C kit out of the box with Tamiya, so why shop anywhere else? Especially when a Kinetic kit will cost about the same if not more. There have been a few Tamiya F-16's on the buy sell board for $35.00 not a bad price. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Laurent Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 (edited) Well, then the answer is simple--get the Tamiya kit. The only (possible) justification I see for building something other than the Tamiya kit is that you want a -A or a two-holer. But you can get a block 52 -C kit out of the box with Tamiya, so why shop anywhere else? You are right if Scott wants to build an American C block 52. If he intends to build something else, the answer isn't that simple. Edited June 22, 2011 by Laurent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bobski Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 (edited) Well, then the answer is simple--get the Tamiya kit. The only (possible) justification I see for building something other than the Tamiya kit is that you want a -A or a two-holer. But you can get a block 52 -C kit out of the box with Tamiya, so why shop anywhere else? Because the Tamiya kits cost a small fortune in comparison to the Kinetic kit and some modellers have to work to a budget? I certainly can't afford to buy Tamiya kits every time I want to build an F-16 and the Kinetic kit is a perfectly acceptable alternative in my eyes. Seriously, the most basic Tamiya F-16 is £10 more expensive than the Kinetic kit, but that's a Block 50, not a Block 52. To get a 52 you need to buy the Aggressor boxing or buy the Block 50 and the Block 32 and then swap the intakes to make a 52 and a 30. Both of those options will cost double the price of one Kinetic kit, if not more, and as has already been said would allow you to build a USAF jet but not necessarily a non-US jet. Edited June 22, 2011 by Bobski Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BK974 Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Because the Tamiya kits cost a small fortune in comparison to the Kinetic kit and some modellers have to work to a budget? I certainly can't afford to buy Tamiya kits every time I want to build an F-16 and the Kinetic kit is a perfectly acceptable alternative in my eyes. Seriously, the most basic Tamiya F-16 is £10 more expensive than the Kinetic kit, but that's a Block 50, not a Block 52. To get a 52 you need to buy the Aggressor boxing or buy the Block 50 and the Block 32 and then swap the intakes to make a 52 and a 30. Both of those options will cost double the price of one Kinetic kit, if not more, and as has already been said would allow you to build a USAF jet but not necessarily a non-US jet. I could not agree more! Here in Norway some buy the Tamiya block 25-30 and converts it to a Norwegian AM, fine if one wants the hassle fixing the back and the tail to make it an AM...but I say, you get a lot less hassle by just building the Kinetic!! FO Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dndieje Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 If I read the man's question right he's asking if the difference in manufacture will be noticeable between his Hasegawa F-16D and a non-Hasegawa F-16C he's planning to build. I'd say yes. All comments here are true, Tamiya make the superior F-16C, Kinetic ones are certainly worth building but if you put either next to a Hasegawa one you'd notice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maly149 Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 for a 52 get the t-birds. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scotthldr Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 The reason for asking about the Kinetic kit is it's a Hellenic Blk52+ a/c with CFT's that I will be building not a USAF jet. The kit has been bought so I'll wait and see. Thanks for all the replies Scott Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maly149 Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 hmmm.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 The noticeable differences to the Kinetic kit will be, the nose droop (early) or thickness (late/corrected),heavy panel lines, less noticeable will be the canopies, the Kinetic kit is noticeably narrower than Has or Tam. but will not be as noticeable since you will have a Single seater and 2 seater, and the tail bases, again not an issue due to the spine. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dedalus Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Regarding price, I can only speak for what you generally see in the U.S. Kinetic Vipers tend to be as expensive if not more so than Tamiya, as Netz points out. And as is also pointed out, though, you gotta do some work to get to a lot of the export versions--CFTs, antennae, etc. I misunderstood this because all I saw was Block 52. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rocky Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 (edited) The noticeable differences to the Kinetic kit will be, the nose droop (early) or thickness (late/corrected),heavy panel lines, less noticeable will be the canopies, the Kinetic kit is noticeably narrower than Has or Tam. but will not be as noticeable since you will have a Single seater and 2 seater, and the tail bases, again not an issue due to the spine. Curt I found this quote on another site: "Having now reviewed a large number of the Kinetic kits and building at least five, I can confidently say that Kinetic has corrected the nose droop that was apparent in the very early single seat kits. This was confirmed in a recent meeting with the CEO of Kinetic model kits." http://www.hyperscale.com/2011/reviews/kits/kinetic48004reviewme_1.htm So how do you know if the kit you are buying has the corrected or uncorrected nose? Are both versions still in production, or did they correct the original molds? http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=170347&st=0&p=1579419& Edited November 13, 2012 by Rocky Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gb_madcat_sl Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 I'm not too sure how to tell exactly but all their Vipers up to the F-16C Barak kit had the droopy nose. The rest had theirs "corrected" but are still not totally accurate. If you manage to touch the plastic, the later ones have a very slight step at one of the panels near the nose. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DonSS3 Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 So is this one of the partially-corrected releases? I've got it in the stash, so replacement isn't really an option. I'll build it, someday… Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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