Best/Favourite scribing tool

[RAIN]

What do you guys is the best scribing tool for depening existing panel lines? I'd like a tool that removes the plastic if possible. I've been using a pin in a vise and it leaves these ridges, and when sanding them down, I have to go over the lines again with the pin to get the dust out.

[Jinro]

I was just about to ask a similar question myself, regarding whether or not it's possible to use the "scoring" blade of an Xacto kit for scribing.

[KursadA]

I think the Olfa P-cutter (P450) is still the best scribing tool known to man.

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1/101-200/tnt105_OlfaP-cutter_Aleong/tnt105.htm

http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=471

Edited November 4, 2011 by KursadA

[Britaholic]

My favourite is the Bare Metal Foil scriber, works great for me.

Cheers

Den

[Triarius]

Mine is the UMM scriber. Incredible tool. I used to make my own. Most of those went into the recycling bin.

[Jinro]

I'm a bit wary of Olfa....after seeing the extortionate prices of their self-healing mats I'm really not interested in their other products.

[KursadA]

I'm a bit wary of Olfa....after seeing the extortionate prices of their self-healing mats I'm really not interested in their other products.

Your choice, it is the best scriber the planet has ever seen. Seriously. It sells for $10 at Amazon and major hobby stores.

Edited November 4, 2011 by KursadA

[blunce]

I use a combo of a sewing needle chucked in a pin vise - this is used for creating the initial few passes next to the dymo tape. Followed by the UMM scriber mostly just to clean out the gap. No Tamiya cement needed to pretty up the lines this way (except those that can't be cleaned out by UMM). I've not been able to get good passes next to Dymo with the UMM scriber as it tends to chew up the straight edge of the Dymo, thus defeating it's purpose. Been doing ALOT of scribing lateley (as in 8 complete kits in the last 2 months) and this system works great.

[Jinro]

I'm actually surprised at the price of that Olfa scriber. May have to find one.

[KursadA]

May have to find one.

Looks like the modern version is called PC-S. $6.77 on Ebay, $4 shipping from Korea.

PS: I just realized that the Tamiya scriber is nothing but a rebranded Olfa PC-S in black!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OLFA-11mm-Plastic-Cutter-PC-S-Included-2-Spare-Blades-/260823551998?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cba4b8ffe#ht_2807wt_1002

Edited November 4, 2011 by KursadA

[Triarius]

I use a combo of a sewing needle chucked in a pin vise - this is used for creating the initial few passes next to the dymo tape. Followed by the UMM scriber mostly just to clean out the gap. No Tamiya cement needed to pretty up the lines this way (except those that can't be cleaned out by UMM). I've not been able to get good passes next to Dymo with the UMM scriber as it tends to chew up the straight edge of the Dymo, thus defeating it's purpose. Been doing ALOT of scribing lateley (as in 8 complete kits in the last 2 months) and this system works great.

If you're chewing up the edge of the Dymo tape, you are either pressing too hard, or you aren't using the scriber perpendicular to the surface. I use Dymo tape all the time, and the only time I've had that problem, I wasn't holding it right or was pressing too hard. The UMM is so sharp you almost only need the weight of the tool on the first few passes. After than, you don't need the tape.

On strongly curved surfaces, try establishing the line by gently rubbing with the long beveled edge of the UMM tool, like it was a saw, but again with very little pressure. The secret of the UMM is "Don'ta push!

[blunce]

If you're chewing up the edge of the Dymo tape, you are either pressing too hard, or you aren't using the scriber perpendicular to the surface. I use Dymo tape all the time, and the only time I've had that problem, I wasn't holding it right or was pressing too hard. The UMM is so sharp you almost only need the weight of the tool on the first few passes. After than, you don't need the tape.

On strongly curved surfaces, try establishing the line by gently rubbing with the long beveled edge of the UMM tool, like it was a saw, but again with very little pressure. The secret of the UMM is "Don'ta push!

I kinda figured it was because, you can't really get the cutting point (on the curved end) right next to the dymo unless you hold the tool at an angle. If you hold the tool perpendicular, and against the edge of the dymo, the point of contact is actually a mm or so away from the edge of the tape. I figure it's the angle that was chewing up the dymo.

I know the UMM is super sharp and requires almost zero pressure. When I first got it, I didn't like it and was kinda regretting buying it, but then I saw a video on YouTube where John demonstrated some of it's uses and I gave it another try. Now I love it. But there's still some learning to do and perfecting techniques to be had. I think I only tried using it next to the dymo when I very first got it. Now that I'm more comfortable with it, I'll give it another try. I don't mind using the needle/pin vise for the first 2-3 passes folowed by the UMM, but if I can eliminate a step....all the better!

Johns YouTube UMM Scriber demonstration:

Edited November 5, 2011 by blunce

[Triarius]

I kinda figured it was because, you can't really get the cutting point (on the curved end) right next to the dymo unless you hold the tool at an angle. If you hold the tool perpendicular, and against the edge of the dymo, the point of contact is actually a mm or so away from the edge of the tape. I figure it's the angle that was chewing up the dymo.

My technique has always been to set the scribing guide (regardless of what it is) slightly offset from the line, just as one does in drafting when drawing a line. If that isn't practical (about half the time) I hold the UMM so that the edge next to the tape is perpendicular to the surface for the first few passes until the line is established. Then I remove the tape because it is no longer needed, and make a few more passes to deepen the line.

I also often use the back end of the hooked portion of the UMM for the first several passes, pushing with just the weight of the tool and a finger. In that direction, it's like using a knife, but the sharp side edge of the scriber is opposite the direction of the cut. This is especially helpful when scribing on curves (or when scribing curves). Used in this fashion, it is possible to use Tamiya tape (or equivalent) as a scribing guide.

[bad edd]

These also are well worth trying:)

Weird looking as it is, their scribe-r works wonders. the riveter also.

http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=77_110

Edited November 5, 2011 by bad edd

[blunce]

My technique has always been to set the scribing guide (regardless of what it is) slightly offset from the line, just as one does in drafting when drawing a line. If that isn't practical (about half the time) I hold the UMM so that the edge next to the tape is perpendicular to the surface for the first few passes until the line is established. Then I remove the tape because it is no longer needed, and make a few more passes to deepen the line.

I also often use the back end of the hooked portion of the UMM for the first several passes, pushing with just the weight of the tool and a finger. In that direction, it's like using a knife, but the sharp side edge of the scriber is opposite the direction of the cut. This is especially helpful when scribing on curves (or when scribing curves). Used in this fashion, it is possible to use Tamiya tape (or equivalent) as a scribing guide.

Sorry to hijack (sort of) you thread Rain.

I tried again last night using the UMM with Dymo and found that what you stated was %100 correct. IF I kept the tool perpendicular to the tape, it worked great. With even a little angle, the chewing began. Also, not sure what I was smokin', but it is actually possible to get the scribe point right next to the tape without holding it at an an angle. So thanks Triarius, you've saved me a step in an already laborious aspect of our hobby!

-Brian

[G_Marcat_Italy]

On a 1/48 Phantom Monogram using this two scribing devices:

I have obtained this result:

The Olfa/Tamiya Scriber and the UMM scribers are the two "gadgets" in my inventory that ensure me the best clean scribing.

[Jinro]

I have a really stupid question: what's the difference between a scribing blade and a regular blade (like #11)?

[JackMan]

I found the UMM scriber to be a bit too powerful for me. It offers practically no resistant & cuts like hot knife through butter when used on plastic. That's normally a good thing but sometimes, it cuts a little TOO good (ie, too deep). Much of how deep a panel line you rescribe depends on how much force you exert. I find the UMM scriber needs to be handled gently or it just scribes too deep. And it doesn't always line up against a Dymo tape so well. You need to "steer" it along the Dymo tape. But it IS smooth cutting & doesn't leave any burrs on the side. Let me put it this way: to me the UMM scriber is like a medieval broadsword. Heavy, powerful but effective. I reckon it'd be great on resin kits.

In contrast, my favourite scriber is like the Japanese katana: The Hasegawa Line Engraver:

http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTT-11

Smooth, refined & a pleasure to use. Cuts finely and, just like the UMM scriber, doesn't leave any burrs along the scribed panel line. There's a finer version:

http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTT-10

but I find it too fine & a little difficult to use. The white one is perfect for me. A little pricey but worth it. I find that it follows the Dymo tape very well and the depth that it cuts is just nice.

Edited November 6, 2011 by JackMan

[G_Marcat_Italy]

I have a really stupid question: what's the difference between a scribing blade and a regular blade (like #11)?

This is the difference:

The problem with a pin or a #11 blade are the two ridges that pop up from the groove.

The "average scriber" REMOVE the plastic while the pointed device leave almost everytime two little crests at the two sides of the groove so you are obliged to sand the scribed surfaces.

About the UMM scriber:

I agree, it has a too aggressive cut but I have also tested by myself that the "aggressivity" of the UMM scriber is a lot connected with the force applied using that device.

Probably the UMM scriber force the hand to apply too much pressure.

I have both the two Hasegawa's scriber and their clone, the single cut TRUMPETER's scriber but for me they suffer of the "two ridges" syndrome: when I use the Hasegawa's scribers I need to sand the surfaces.

Maybe I don't use them well, but I do not find the Hasegawa/Trumpeter scribers at the top.

[Patrick_Nevin]

Anyone use the Mission, then? I have one of those, the UMM (interestingly, the video quoted above doesn't work here due to 'copyright issues'), Olfa cutter, pin in vice and occasional metal shop deburring tool (for round bits), all seem to have bits they excel at...

Patrick

[JackMan]

the UMM (interestingly, the video quoted above doesn't work here due to 'copyright issues')

Pat, I had the same "copyright" problem. So I went around it by keying in "UMM Scriber" in the search box. Here's the "uncopyrighted" link:

(Copy & Paste + add "http" in front)

www.youtube.com/watch?v=vz1RZPVqnN4

John has 4 videos uploaded. One of which is the exact same one as in the above link (except, for some reason, it has copyright issues)

Edited November 6, 2011 by JackMan

[Jinro]

The problem with a pin or a #11 blade are the two ridges that pop up from the groove.

The "average scriber" REMOVE the plastic while the pointed device leave almost everytime two little crests at the two sides of the groove so you are obliged to sand the scribed surfaces.

Aha, a picture is indeed worth a thousand words ;)

[PetarB]

The bare metal scriber is awesome - it produces tiny little corkscrews of plastic as you scribe. I also use a tungsten steel-tipped one which is more of a 'gouger' - its use depends on the application.

Edited November 7, 2011 by PetarB

[Patrick_Nevin]

Pat, I had the same "copyright" problem. So I went around it by keying in "UMM Scriber" in the search box. Here's the "uncopyrighted" link:

(Copy & Paste + add "http" in front)

www.youtube.com/watch?v=vz1RZPVqnN4

That's brilliant, thanks! Really useful and inspiring to see the tool in action.

(side question: why does JV wear gloves while doing it? :))

Patrick

[chuck540z3]

I've tried them all, including the UMM one which, I must say, I don't like much. How they expect you to scribe lines with a sharp blade in your hands is beyond me, but I digress.

The tool I really like is the simple Trumpeter scribing tool which looks like this:

http://www.scalehobbyist.com/images/products/TRP/TRP00009912/TRP00009912_0_l.jpg

I have the Hasegawa equivalent and it's too sharp and easily slips off the selected line. For some reason the Trumpeter one works the best, which I believe is because it has a wider blade point.