Mike C Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 G'Day! I've been wanting to do a Super Hornet with digital camo, similar to this pic on Airliners.net: http://www.airliners.net/photo/USA---Navy/Boeing-F-A-18F-Super/1975711/L/&sid=7c958bf5e1123dc79b837f92000e81ac Can anyone think of the best (i.e. easiest) way to do this? TIA! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ivy-5 Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Hi ! decals are currently in progress with Syhart Decals (here: My link) Not sure it's the easiest way, but at least it's a way... Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Hi ! decals are currently in progress with Syhart Decals (here: My link) Not sure it's the easiest way, but at least it's a way... Cheers Thanks. Might be the easiest, not necessarily the best, since I find that large decals either tend to tear, or not fitting well. Still.... I'd keep this in mind. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jennings Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Would miles and miles and miles of masking tape be easier than a large decal? How much is your sanity worth? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Doughboy Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I did the ruler, maksing tape, x-acto to do my G36C. Took forever but came out ok. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nfiler Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Jennings, If you go to his web site, he has a tentative layout of the decals. As far as I can see, the decals look a whole lot easier than the endless masking on everything that scheme would require. And just as an aside, I think those of us who do decals should refrain from negative comments about other companies work. To me it just seems like running down the competition and reflects poorly on the guy doing the negative comments. If there are errors on the sheet, the very critical folks here can usually find it without us making those comments. No question but there is some pretty poor stuff out there, but let somebody else say it. Especially when your banner clearly states your a competitor. Jennings, please don't take this as a big negative thing, I consider us friends and it bothers me that you might not see your comments as detrimental to your reputation. Would miles and miles and miles of masking tape be easier than a large decal? How much is your sanity worth? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mingwin Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 (edited) Jennings, If you go to his web site, he has a tentative layout of the decals. As far as I can see, the decals look a whole lot easier than the endless masking on everything that scheme would require. And just as an aside, I think those of us who do decals should refrain from negative comments about other companies work. To me it just seems like running down the competition and reflects poorly on the guy doing the negative comments. If there are errors on the sheet, the very critical folks here can usually find it without us making those comments. No question but there is some pretty poor stuff out there, but let somebody else say it. Especially when your banner clearly states your a competitor. Jennings, please don't take this as a big negative thing, I consider us friends and it bothers me that you might not see your comments as detrimental to your reputation. i think you totally miss Jenning's comment... he is, in NO WAY, negativly calling on SYHART decals. he's stating that the masking job would drive most people insane!(in response to someone who thinks that large decals would be PITA) Edited October 9, 2012 by mingwin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 As mentioned you can start cutting up some tape and hope you have enough reference photo's to get 90% of it right,it can be done. As far as a big decal project, it might be easier and you can always cut them up into more manageable pieces, I'm sure any mis-matches could be easily painted in to match, you'd be surprised how easy it is to fix a WWI Lozenge decal. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Thanks guys. I do agree that there's really not much option. If I really want to build this, then I guess I'd have to wait for the decals... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
salvine Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Couple options here as well. Even 1/144. DXM Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toadwbg Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 (edited) Food for thought: So we have rivet counters in this hobby. Will we also have pixel counters? IMHO, if digital pattern decals were 90% correct, I would probably be satisfied and couldn't tell the difference. As long as the colors and general layout were correct I don't think I could tell if they accurate! Edited October 9, 2012 by toadwbg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bushande Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 (edited) Since I just finished the very bird you want to do, it might help to add my two cents on how I fared: http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=255296 I'm quite confident most things match up to the original but anyways by no means it will be an easy undertaking regardless of how you want to pull this off. I went on doing a mix of decals and masking. After a walk around and many reference shots from people who work on the original I produced my own little line of decals. Decals are still the best way to make sure you can adjust the scheme to the kit you use. Since no kit is 100 percent identical with the original in its dimensions, such full body designs tend to be troublesome because you just have to adjust at some point if you want all cubes and squares to really be on the right spot on your model just as they are on the original. Hence generating decals or (soon) using Syhart's decals for example are a comfortable way to make sure the camo looks just like on the original despite the difference of the model's dimensions. I also did a 1/72, 1/32 and even a 1/144 version for myself and I can tell you, each and every time I had to adjust the basic design depending on what kit I plan to use. After all I still recommend you do really go all the way and rework whatever kit sou use (Revellogram or Hase) before you apply any decals for full body markings. In the end you will always have trouble making sure everything is really in place just similar to the original. That part in fact can easier be fixed going the road of masking and painting. Albeit decals will produce a flat and even surface without any differences. The original Blue Rhino was painted with many different colors in different consistencies some flat, some semi flat, on some spots very thin applied, on other spots thinker, producing different light effects and a kind of "alive" surface. You can only achieve this effect using colors as well. I merely used my decals as a platform for applying paints. On some spots I just cut out some squares and applied color on others I carefully painted over the decals. It depends on you but kind of speaking out of experience I would say: Use decals as a base and then continue with colors. Just my two cents. (Btw: I wonder how Syhart's decals will be in the end?) Edited October 25, 2012 by bushande Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bushande Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 (edited) IMHO, if digital pattern decals were 90% correct, I would probably be satisfied and couldn't tell the difference. As long as the colors and general layout were correct I don't think I could tell if they accurate! Tell you what, I presactly thought the same way till I actually worked on the Blue Rhino camo and believe me you start seeing it when something doesn't add up and doesn't match the original and at some point you just WANT that particular panel line really crossing that certain cube and square the right way and you WANT this or that cube to be on that particular vent or grid just like on the real thing. I started out telling myself if it adds up 90 percent I'll be happy with that and in the end I was almost going nuts making sure that everything was where it should be. Guess such camos really do drive you crazy. Edited October 25, 2012 by bushande Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne S Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 (edited) Would miles and miles and miles of masking tape be easier than a large decal? How much is your sanity worth? Unless I did the decals myself, I think I would still mask and tape using the decals as a scanned pattern. Fast thought that comes to my mind with things like this is. Get a sheet of glass larger then printing paper. Cover the glass with painters tape. Make/scan pattern onto printing paper. Use a lowtack spray on the back of the paper/pattern. Stick/tack that over the tape. Then use a scalpel to cut out the pattern, the paper is the cutting guide, the painters tape is the actual stencil. For these kinds of camo etc. glass is definitely the way to go. Other kinds of camo, painters tape can be stuck on a cutting board. Tho,, for sharp edges that becomes iffy. Real easy patterns, newer style USAF F-15/f-16 Camo etc. Can use wax-paper as the backing for the tape instead of glass, that way, one can cut the pattern with scissors. --------------------- That is my take anyway. Edited October 25, 2012 by Wayne S Quote Link to post Share on other sites
loftycomfort Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 In the absense of a printed decal, miles and miles, or countless tiny tiny pieces, of masking tape, is still the only way to go: Terry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted October 26, 2012 Author Share Posted October 26, 2012 (edited) In the absense of a printed decal, miles and miles, or countless tiny tiny pieces, of masking tape, is still the only way to go: :worship: :worship: Edited October 26, 2012 by Mike C Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toniosky Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 I did the ruler, maksing tape, x-acto to do my G36C. Took forever but came out ok. Just a side question, sorry: How do you protect your paint work from scratches ? Varnish or did you just use some special paint ? Cheers, Antoine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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