rul82iam Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 Hi everyone! Quick question/poll... How do you paint aircraft rims (wheels). I currently use Parafilm stretched over the rim. As we all know that isn't ideal. If using an airbrush, some 'under spray' seems inevitable. Obviously, commercial masks aren't always available. I really don't like using brush paint, since it 'gathers' on the rim's inlet holes/lug nuts etc. forcing multiple coats. Tamiya tape masks the best, but it's tedious masking the whole tire (not to mention a little pricey!!!) Hopefully I've described our plight, and perhaps someone has a different technique??? Thanks to everyone in advance for your comments/ideas! Happy Spring Modeling! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Helmsman Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 I usually spray the rims first and mask them with Tamiya or 3M tape(http://www.target.com/p/scotch-advanced-delicate-surface-60-day-blue-painter-s-tape-1-5-x45-yd/-/A-13805496?ref=tgt_adv_XS000000&AFID=google_pla_df&CPNG=PLA_Home+Improvement+Shopping&adgroup=SC_Home+Improvement&LID=700000001170770pgs&network=g&device=c&location=9028749&gclid=CjwKEAjwq5LHBRCN0YLf9-GyywYSJAAhOw6m3YU5pFzwZLk6MzmgdZtOaEu_e8xNasY_js8CVgWJIhoCWEzw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds) before painting tires. In some cases I use Microscale liquid mask. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
niart17 Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 Either use a circle template, which works fine by itself if the rim has a raised lip so you don't have to worry about over spray OR if there is no lip then you can use a hole punch set to cut a mask out of masking material, be it Tamiya tape or vinyl or whatever. The reverse can be done as helmsman suggests by using the hole punch to make a positive mask instead of negative. Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 I've been doing all my rims and tires by cutting masks on a Silhouette Portrait. Doing other masks as well, but these are a snap. I draw and cut 2 concentric circles for the rim and tire. I tend to paint the entire part then mask the tire to paint the hub, but I could do the other order, too. Here's an image of the masks for HB's 1/48 F4F-3S. Happy to send the .SVG file if anybody wants it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 I find parafilm to be the best option: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/279141-148-hasegawa-f-4e-tuaf-sea/&do=findComment&comment=2709484 http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/279141-148-hasegawa-f-4e-tuaf-sea/&do=findComment&comment=2713598 I think the key is not to lay PF too stretched. After you stretch it with your hands to activate it, it should go down on the part unstretced so that when cut, it doesn't have a tendency to coil back. I work the film into the crease between the rim and the tire using a stubby old brush, than cut it with a blade. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pep Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 I use the silhouette cutter as well, however before that i simply used a small ball of blue tack to mask the wheel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MacStingy Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 Not everyone will like this, but what I do is to paint the rim first. When that dries I put a tiny amount of Tamiya thinner in a bottle cap. I use beer ones but feel free to use the bev of your choice. Using NATO black and a OOO brush, I pick up a bit of paint, splash my brush in a bit of the thinner (very little) and with my tongue sticking out the left side of my mouth, or holding my breath or both, very carefully paint the black. If there is a defined rim, you've got it made as the thinned paint will flow right to the edge. This will require more than one coat, but hey.... Isn't this about occupying you time? If I muck up and paint the rim then it's easy to touch up. I can't be bothered cutting masks or trying to source them. Cheers Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
echolmberg Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 I use the same (or similar) technique as Mac above. I'll spray the entire wheel/tire first. Then, when that's dry, I'll use some thinned-down paint, almost like a wash but not as thin really, to flow the tire paint around the rim. Capillary action helps pull the paint around. Usually I wait until that's dry and then I'll paint the rest of the tire after that. Eric Quote Link to post Share on other sites
murad Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 samo, if the rim has enough definition ie. a raised lip any paint to the consistency of a wash would do it, rest is ro paint the tyre. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric2020 Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 I do airbrush the white if the wheel is white to be. I use enamel white can be any brand I think. Enamel does yellow, some even overnight. I let it cure for a few days, and than use Tamiya white. That dries quickly, but I let it cure and harden. Tamiya white does not yellow because of alcohol being used as a thinner. After the paint is cured I use enamel 9 of Revell, I know its not that good but its the only anthracite Grey. thin it and with capilar action it will follow the rim. If a rim is not that good I engrave it with a sharp needle. And that is done before I do anything. Silver or aluminium wheels that is more tricky as pure black will break, anthracite does that less. Hope this info will help. Masking ok, but not on my wheels. I save the money for the next kit :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fool on the hill Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 (edited) First, I paint the wheel center. Let it dry completely. Then I use a dense black watercolor wash. flow it into the groove where the tire and rim meet. It will flow around the groove between the rim and tire and describe a perfect circle. When it dries, finish painting the tire with brush and paint. Edited April 9, 2017 by fool on the hill to add photo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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