Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums

dmk0210

Members
  • Content Count

    1,409
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About dmk0210

  • Rank
    Full Blown Model Geek

Recent Profile Visitors

8,278 profile views
  1. Looks like a bunch of options. Nice! What model Mossies are on this sheet?
  2. Just got mine in the mail today. I agree with everything Charlie said. You gave new life to the Hobbycraft kit. Thanks for putting that Korean War vet on there too.
  3. I've tried a lot of stuff including perfect plastic putty, 3M Acryl, Mr Surfacer, among others. I still use those sometimes, but keep going back to Super Glue (any brand Cyanoacrylate) and ZAP Zip Kicker (to cure it ultra quickly). You have to be quick with it before it cures to hard to sand, but nothing else fills seams as well and makes such a smooth finish without shrinking and showing the seam later.
  4. Unfortunately, Fireball is no longer doing aircraft stuff anymore, he's gotten into pretty nice 1/24,1/25 car/truck stuff now. Sometimes the older decals pop up on ebay now and then though.
  5. Thanks guys I'm going to try the sanding technique again.
  6. Nice to see some love for the B-45! I always liked this aircraft. I sure wish someone would make a 1/48 kit.
  7. Nice! I have the old Classic Airframes kit.
  8. Interesting that they have gone back to the stark black ZZ on the tails like they had back in the 70's and 80's instead of the more subdued gray ZZ that they had in the 90's and earlier 2000's.
  9. In photos, you see a lot of scuffing of the paint and even wear down to the metal on WW2 fighter aircraft, where the pilots and maintenance crew walk on the wing root to gain access to the cockpit and sometimes it even extends somewhat out to the wing gun access panels. I've tried dry brushing, pencils, and also tried spraying layers of aluminum and primers then lightly sanding, sometimes in combination with salt as a mask. I'm just not able to get it to look realistic, compared to photos. I bought some AK chipping fluid to try (or maybe hairspray), but I don't use acrylic paints, instead preferring lacquers and enamels, so I'm not sure if those will work. What is your technique for simulating this wear?
  10. I dip my clear canopies, lenses, etc in a small cup of Future, then let them dry for a few weeks (Future floor wax, search the forums for info on it). I do this at the very start of the model, it's usually the first thing I do. Future helps clear parts look more clear, I suppose it fills in micro imperfections. I once tried to spray Future on a canopy and it fogged it, looking like heavy rain on a windshield. (luckily it's removable with isopropyl alcohol) Other clear coats sprayed on will definitely fog clear parts.
  11. Just search for poster putty. I also use it for masking. Rolled into 'worms', it's also especially good for camo, but just this weekend I used it along with pieces of paper to mask off a rudder and section of cowl that had to be painted yellow. Like this stuff: Link Here
  12. Thanks Dutch! Quickly looking it up, that squadron has a long and interesting history: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/8th_Special_Operations_Squadron
  13. Nice! Will there be black belly SEA camo aircraft on that sheet? (like 53-3840 above?) Wasn't the B-57 the first official USAF aircraft to drop bombs in the Vietnam war? Does anyone know what unit that was? I'm assuming silver and no camo aircraft at that time. I always thought these were really good looking aircraft in any scheme (except for the -G)
  14. Which was the aircraft that infamously lost hydraulics and on attempted landing, crashed in the woods just yards away from the end of the runway at Calverton? Was that aircraft #1 BuNo. 157980?
×
×
  • Create New...