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About Pappy121

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  1. G'day FNG, Yes the u/c is white, same for the NWW and MWW. The avionics bays are generally a zinc chromate yellow/green with grey or black avionic boxes. For the HAF SEA scheme, the standard colours are FS34079, 34102 (dark/light green), FS30219 (tan) and the underside colour is actually FS36622 which is a very light grey. On the HAF aircraft it can become very dirty and in some pictures it can look nearly white but it is actually a grey. The LGG you suggested is incorrect as it is actually FS36375 which is too dark and too blue. As for the canop
  2. G'day FNG, Typically, aftermarket replacement weapons and undercarriage bays should fit inside the kit, and if they replace the kit part then they should fit the same way as the part they replace (yeah right!). The problem is that the aftermarket parts don't always come with clear instructions, you may get a diagram or box top picture if you are lucky. You may also need to thin the resin part and the inside of the kit fuselage or wing parts to get the items to fit properly. Some brands fit better than others, Aires for example usually don't fit without a lot of sanding
  3. Lookin' the biznuss now! cheers, Pappy
  4. G'day FNG, I am not sure but I would have thought that the edges of the AM nose wheel well (NWW) would need to fit under/inside the edges of the fuselage parts as that is how the kit part (which is replaced by AM) fits. If that is the case you may need to sand down the back of the resin NWW so that it can sit inside, Pappy
  5. G'day TFG, I am not sure if you were aware but in HAF service the the darker exterior camouflage green (FS34079) was extended inside the intake for quite some distance back, about 6 feet in real life. I also found the fit of the air brake parts also problematic and it needed several attempts of careful sanding and dry-fitting to get all the parts to mesh together. I ignored the instruction sequence and built up that assembly separately first. There were still some spots that needed a touch of filler but it was easier to get all the parts, especially the small hinged sid
  6. G'day Andrew, Thanks very much. I can't wait to get back and start painting, cheers, Pappy
  7. G'day Bastian, No idea sorry. If I had to guess about 6in and they were all the same size so the same replaceable part could be used on the wings, fin and stabs cheers, Pappy
  8. G'day people, I am back home and finally got some bench time in on this one. The join between the intake and lower fuselage had a slight step. It was not apparent when I test fitted these two assemblies but was definitely there once the glue had set. A quick brush of liquid putty and a rub back soon had things back on track Next the tedious task of masking off the canopy and 'zorst Just about ready for paint. In the meantime, I thought that I would reward myself with some decal application starting with the f
  9. Nice work! This is how my cockpit turned out - I think it may be the same resin set. I left the HUD 'combiner' glass clear but painted the HUD lens a clear green colour (Incidentally, if you think it rude of me to add a picture of my build in your WIP I will happily remove it upon request, I meant no offence just to illustrate a point re the HUD) As mine will also be a HAF A-7H 'Alepou' I have modified the IFR probe to reflect the real aircraft. The spot where it normally would be had two strips of plastic glued over the opening to match pictur
  10. G'day Bastian, Sorry I don't but there is this new thing called the internet 🙂 If you have the Verlinden Lock-On book, have a gander at page 8 and the rear cover. Also the scale drawing included in the book. The wicks were black with yellow end tips. This was to warn and hopefully prevent people from grabbing them (why?) as apart from being fragile the end had two very sharp vertical barbs. Also they did not droop like some do, they were absolutely straight, If you can find some very fine carbon fibre filament works very well but be very careful using it, wear
  11. Steve is correct, it should be clear. When the HUD is operating, the HUD can appear green from some angles and I think some modellers may be attempting to simulate this or have misunderstood the picture (or they saw another modeller do this and have copied it) but the glass is clear. Sometimes you can see a 'prismatic' effect like that seen on camera lenses and there are clear self adhesive films that you can use to simulate this effect but for such a small item you need to decide if the bite is worth the chew, cheers, Pappy
  12. G'day Bastian, Love the attention to detail. Ref the static discharge wicks, note that the ones installed on the stabs are on opposite sides. i.e on the upper surface for the left stab and on the bottom for the right stab. This is because the stabs were symmetrical i.e not a left and right so the same stab could be fitted to either side but it was installed 'upside down' relative to its opposite counterpart. Hopefully this is not too late for you. Most people would not notice and most builders don't add the wicks but since you are, it would be a pity not to get it ri
  13. ES is ccorrect, the flap vanes need to taper in cord and they approach the wingtips. It seems to that the easiest (and cheapest!) fix would be to separate the individual flap vane segments and install these the correct way round as suggested by ES i.e with decreasing chord towards the wing tips rather than buying the SD resin wings. To me, the biggest selling feature of the HB kit should have been the deployed slats/flaps but HB screwed this up completely. Apart from the flap vane issue mentioned above, the other issue is that there are spring loaded panels on the underside of the
  14. The Reskit canopy is an improvement over the HB canopy but it is still not correct. The HB canopy has three errors, the major one being the slope of the windscreen, which should be a flat, descending angle in the side profile. HB have managed to make theirs curved giving it an upwards bulging appearance. Secondly, and you can see this in the comparison pictures above, HB have located the canopy bow too far forward which shortens the windscreen length in side profile. Notice the step between the cockpit bow and the fuselage side immediately below the windscreen which is slight
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