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Pappy121

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About Pappy121

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  1. This is incredibly cool! Awesome skillz Ken, cheers, Pappy
  2. G'day Steve and Gino, Thanks very much for the speedy response, that was extremely helpful. The silver looking line that rises vertically, is doesn' look like it is connected in the pic, is that correct/normal? Is this the same for both sides i.e. symmetrical? cheers, Pappy
  3. G'day people, A question regarding the auxilliary fuel bladders fitted to the rear cabin to extend range/duration. When these are installed, is there any additional piping visible between the bladders and the cabin? thanks in adavnce, Pappy
  4. G'day Gabor, Thank you very much for a great and usefel explanation, cheers, Pappy
  5. Splendid work Ken and a very useful bit of info too, cheers, Pappy
  6. Wow! Impressive work Ken. It is looking really good. Did the kit supplied masks work well, do they fit and stick well? I am looking at my instructions and your kit and noticed that the destructions would have you install part of the nose gear mechanism (the 'Y' shaped bit and its hydraulic actuator) inside the nose gear bay before installing the nose gear bay tub into the fuselage. I Think this would be very fiddly to install after the fuselage is all closed up but in your WIP it doesn't look like you followed that step. Have you already done this or do you have 'a cunning plan' ? cheers, Pappy
  7. G'day BD, I usually use CA (Super Glue), usually the cheapest stuff I can find at the supermarket, chers, Pappy
  8. G'day people, So I have been able to drag this one out of the cupboard of aimless destiny during the Chrissy break and managed to get a little more done with it. I have managed to get some paint of the inner wing/nacelle sections and the fuselage. The inner wing sections are only dry fitted in the pics below, The nacelles still need some more work and engine cowls were only temporarily attached using PVA glue to allow me to mask and paint the anti-glare sections, The cowlings have since been removed and I will work on getting the donks sorted next, cheers, Pappy
  9. G'day Oliver, Uhh nup, I didn't know they operated AS-532s! Thanks for the tip, cheers, Pappy
  10. G'day Mig, Awesome, that is exactly the info I was chasing. The CC set provides the round M-5 drum type, cheers, Pappy
  11. G'day people, I have a question regarding the cabin floor of a Vietnam UH-1B or UH-1C. I know that some uses (RAAF for example) would add a thin protective plywood floor doubler over the cabin floor. There were circular cut-outs so the tie down points were still accessible. Was this a common practice for US Army and Marine B/Cs? If so, would anyone have a 1/48 floor plan with the tie down points? I plan on doing the venerable Monogram UH-1B (converted to a UH-1C using the CC resin set) with the M-5 'thump gun' installed. This will mean the moulded 'lump' of ammo tins will need to be removed and exposing a large area of the cabin floor. Finally, does anyone know of a 1/48 decal producer that does markings for 1/48 UH-1Cs cheers, Pappy
  12. G'day Ken, Cheers, that helps a lot. Unfortunately I cannot help you with your Su-17M3>M4 question but I am sure someone will supply an answer shortly, cheers, Pappy
  13. G'day Ken, Stellar work! Does the M-55s variant of the K-36 differ much from other fighter versions (K-36DM?), because the sides of the headbox look to extend forwards a little more than is typical for a K-36? I have this kit coming from Crimbo (that is the rumor anyways) and I think I will swap the kit seat out for an aftermarket item unless it is 'unique' cheers, Pappy
  14. Thanks very much Seawinder and everyone else who contributed, 4 scale inches it is. I have been wading through several fora discussions on the subject of wheel well colours and door positions. It is a minefield with lots of contradictory opinions and evidence. My take on it is that the inner oors would normally be closed immediately after engine shut down as they only opened as the gear was cycled. Once the engine was shut down (and the engine driven hydraulic pump was no longer supplying pressure to the system), these doors would sag open, however the rate was dependent uponthe serviceability of the hyd system, so this may have been rapid or slow, but eventually they would sag. Of course, maintenance crews could also manually unlock the doors and open them for inspections and maintenance as well, so the answer is anything between fully up and fully open would be correct, but it would be typical for them to be closed immediately after shut down. Most people show them open as: They wish to show off the kit details They don't have to bother with getting the doors to fit The kit parts are engineered that way and perhaps the modeller doesn't know any different Now each modeller is entitled to build their kit how they want. There is also the issue of the wing panel lines being evident on most kits instead of being filled and doped which iwas normal (there are obvoiusly exceptions but this is how they came from the factory) but also ignorred by many modellers, personally I think this is greater innacuracy but again, each person has the right to build as they choose, but if they cite accuracy as a driver, then that is a criteria that should also be considered, cheers, Pappy
  15. G'day people, I have a newbie question regarding the yellow painted portion of the propeller tips of P-51 Mustangs. Was there a standard distance for this yellow portion, i.e. 2" for example? cheers, Pappy
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