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jonbryon

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About jonbryon

  • Rank
    Step away from the computer!
  • Birthday 03/06/1978

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  • Website URL
    http://www.jonbryon.com
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    0

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Croydon, UK
  • Interests
    Geology, Theology, guitar playing, 1/48 military aircraft, boardgaming

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  1. jonbryon

    Issue with foiling

    I'm glad someone else understands! Jon
  2. jonbryon

    Monogram 1/48 F-80C Shooting Star

    Thanks chaps 🙂 Jon
  3. Here's my latest build: Monogram's 1/48 Lockheed F-80C Shooting Star. The kit has been rescribed and is covered in kitchen foil. Some markings are from Microscale and some have been created using stencils cut on my Silhouette Portrait. There's a full and extensive write up here: https://jonbryon.com/monogram-1-48-lockheed-f-80c-shooting-star/ It looks okay from more than a foot away, but very ugly close up. Still, it was an experiment, and one I shall not repeat but was glad to undertake. Jon
  4. jonbryon

    Issue with foiling

    http://www.vertigo-miniatures.com/vertigo/eshop/15-1-JIGS I think mine's an Evo 7248. I'm thinking of getting the jet one too. Jon
  5. jonbryon

    Issue with foiling

    Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm done with the foiling now. Pretty dissatisfied with the process, so I probably won't attempt it again! Monogram 1/48 F-80C - almost finished:
  6. jonbryon

    Kitty Hawk RF-101A/C

    As with many KH kits, they're not referenced in the instructions at all. You have to search the sprues, but they're there. Jon
  7. jonbryon

    1/48 F-4 Phantom best kits

    I'm interested in this claim because, compared to the Hasegawa, I can't see it. I built three Hasegawa F-4s last year, and an Academy. I made an attempt at measuring the rear canopies and I reckoned they were almost the same. Have you got any photos or measurements? I do agree the Academy front canopy is shorter than the Hasegawa one, but it looks to me like the difference is in that fixed centre section, not the rear opening section. I'm not saying you're wrong, just asking someone to point it out to me a little more clearly 🙂 E.g. Hasegawa: Academy: Jon
  8. jonbryon

    Issue with foiling

    Ah, ok. No I haven't tried that. Unfortunately it's not really practical.
  9. jonbryon

    Issue with foiling

    Yes:
  10. jonbryon

    Issue with foiling

    Yes, it does need to completely cure before applying it to the model. If it's still wet when the foil is applied it will not stick properly (I've tried). When it's dry and applied smoothly, it does make a wonderful bond. Unfortunately there are two issues here: 1. the bumps don't get ironed out (the foil is very sensitive to any surface imperfections), and 2. I need to be able to mask the foil. Where the glue is, the foil can be masked very safely. Where the gaps are, it creates air bubbles that get worse during masking. I might try a little of that. I'll have to see if it interferes with the glue chemistry. Too expensive and the sheets I do have are not brilliant (wrinkled). I have used it for some of the more difficult areas (like the canopy frame.) Thanks for the replies Jon
  11. jonbryon

    Issue with foiling

    I am using kitchen foil to cover a Monogram 1/48 F-80C. I am using cheap, thin foil, not suitable for baking. I am using Microscale Foil adhesive and following the instructions. I am applying the glue to the less shiny side of the foil. I am applying the glue using a dropper and then brushing it with a 1" brush. I am having this problem: the glue is 'fish-eyeing', where after being applied smoothly with a wide brush holes or gaps open up in the glue layer. I have tried the following to alleviate this: 1. Thin the glue with a little 100% IPA 2. Thin the glue with a little water. 3. Clean the foil with white spirit (mineral spirits) prior to applying glue 4. Clean the foil with 100% IPA prior to applying glue. None of these make the situation better or worse. Applying glue to large or small pieces makes no difference. Has anyone else had this problem and have any tips on how to solve it? Many thanks Jon
  12. jonbryon

    Obscure question re F-80C markings

    Thanks...but have you found any others with the fuselage and wing tank stripes? It seems to me this aircraft had very unique markings. Jon
  13. jonbryon

    Obscure question re F-80C markings

    I'm beginning to think you're right. Which is annoying because it's not entirely clear how many stripes there are (I think two) and what their geometry is! Nevertheless, I shall have a go at adding them... Jon
  14. jonbryon

    Obscure question re F-80C markings

    Thanks for the replies! Here's a higher res image: If you follow this link it should be a bit bigger: https://jonbryoncom.files.wordpress.com/2019/03/spirit-of-hobo-2-big.jpg Jon
  15. Hello, I am making Monogram's 1/48 F-80C in markings from Microscale (48-164), which seem to be rather poorly researched. I am attempting to make this aircraft (FT-591 'Spirit of Hobo' from the 80th FBS in 1952): I have the following questions: 1. Is it just me, or does it look like there are yellow flashes on the *horizontal* tail surfaces in the second photo above? No manufacturer who has issued these markings (Microscale, Aeromaster, Airfix, Hasegawa) has interpreted the scheme in this way, but I am sure I can see some kind of yellow striping on the elevators. 2. I have only found images of the starboard side. Microscale say the nose art was on the port side only. Airfix and Hasegawa have the noseart on both sides. Aeromaster say starboard side only. Anyone have any images of the port side to determine who is correct? The Microscale sheet has all kinds of other apparent errors (only two national insignia supplied, tail yellow markings wrong shape, yellow markings not edged in white as they should be, no 'US AIR FORCE' marking for the tail, ignore the yellow tips and tails of the fuel tanks, wrong stencilling (for an F-80A!), wrong location of the national insignia, etc., etc.). The Aeromaster sheet looks better, but I've only found that for CND$35, which I am not paying! Any help much appreciated. Jon
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