metroman

I love Tamiya fine grain putty for general work. I also use Milliput on more significant gaps, to me it contours easier than CA. Lastly Vallejo 'Plastic Putty' in the long nose tube is a gem for tight spots. Best wishes

Just saw this news drop from ResKit about HB -F set https://reskit.com.ua/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=524

Gorgeous, will HB have a cabin interior?

Will make a good backup to the 2nd best paint they've been carrying for years now.

Mr Color can be found at Sprue Brothers, or Hobbyworld USA - be sure to order Gunze 'Self-Leveling Thinner', or you'll be shooting cobwebs; with Mr Color go for about 1:1 ratio paint/self-leveling thinner (It should be skim milk consistency) My compressors at about 15-18 psi, and my Harder & Steenbeck Evolution airbrush has the .2mm tip with the paint flow set at 50% to start then I dial down to the width I want. Build up coats, it goes on sheer but you should consider learning 'paint-buffing' if you already don't. Mr Color also has excellent clear coats to choose from; most colors are

Here's a good 'review' - https://doogsmodels.com/2016/09/07/airbrushing-a-deep-dive/#Part3

Ditched Model Master years ago after seeing a Mr Color demo at the Columbus nationals. I was blown away by how sheer Mr Color lays, and most of their colors are semi-gloss - this makes a difference along with how much more refined the grain is vs Model Master. When MM came on the scene in the 80s I bought a ton and used them almost exclusively, but times changed and MM's comparatively coarser grain has been surpassed. Your models will benefit from the sheerer layer which doesn't obscure as much detail, and can be buffed in between coats to get an incredibly smooth surface ripe for decals an

It is too small - on HS there's a build article with a head-on comparison. I'll say that after reading multiple articles and looking close at the resin cowl options for my still-ongoing B-25D build I opted to try enlarging the openings my own with sanding film wrapped around a 'Detailer' wash bottle (it fit perfect)... took five minutes to enlarge both, very easy. Look I'm all for supporting our resin Mfgs but the replacement cowls add little in detail but more to your workload. Sand away I say, it looks fine - Cheers to all

HB D/E kit includes, and shows in the instruction how to add the -F's Pave Tack pod and some other -F elements, although the office and cans need help.

Not seeing a set for the HB -F, or am I missing something? I have the ancient Paragon can set meant for the anemic Academy "Let's pretend we're an -F" kit

NT

Yep, they all are around here. July 25th start, then two weeks each fall, Christmas, and Spring breaks. Last day Thurs before Memorial Day

Superscale 48-825, seeking full sheet or partial considered if 'Hells Fire' markings are there. Will pay $15 plus USPS, I'm in USA. Mitchell modeler in Indiana

Isn't so much the distance for me as it is the time of year - school has started last week of July which makes these shows a non-starter. Move to June and make it Fri & Sat only

A new B-29 yeah I'm in - just not too nuts, I want only what can be seen through the windows, I hate paying for (and feeling obliged to work on) stuff that cannot be seen. For example the side observation/tracking bubbles I only want the sight (sigh). And while wishing I'd prefer ordnance options other than 500lbers, like incendiaries.

Check Starfighter Decals, they have Midway specific sheets.

You could, but you may want to first check period photos comparing 'midway' era SBD gun mounts vs later war SBD mounts since small details such as armor plate, sights, feed boxes -could- be different, depends on how much that matters as you could just pop it on and call it done. Detail & Scale makes a wonderful reference for the SBD I highly recommend. There's one other tip I will pass on to consider: obtain the metal gun barrels from Master Detail®, they have a .30 set which include the barrel and cooling jackets (the set contains a pair). Cut off the kit injection plastic gun barrel

Hi Rob, I wish there were better news but no one offers 'just' a replacement, I wish Eduard would make the resin gem from their SBD-5 reboxing of the AM kit available separately, it looks wonderful. You'd need to make some minor edits for a mount from earlier in the war but its a moot point without being available. Short of obtaining a scrap/donor kit from another modeler and salvaging the .30s I think your out of luck. Of course should you be OK with a change of gears your kits single gun mount is correct for the USMC SBD-2s operating from Midway during the battle, provided you want to do

Wonderful, I will be getting this. I suspect its a long shot but I'd give a good chunk of change for a WW2 Dauntless/Helldiver/Devastator gunner/radioman SEATED.

Aftermarket, no. If you are in need of one for your Kate or Jill you could (1) find out how to contact Hasegawa to buy the appropriate sprue, or (2) see if someone is willing to part with the parts from their kit (don't forget the mounting parts). To determine which kit could be a 'donor' http://www.modelingmadness.com/splfeat/kr/has48a.htm

Scale?

OK so you asked... here is my $0.02 1. Academy F-4B/J and C/D- easy and a nice amount of refined detail, however as noted there are certain bugaboo's (as with all kits). LOVE the one piece fuselage, just watch for a tad bit of mold line flash. It defies all understanding of WHY Academy has not rolled out the F-4E years ago, that thing would be a license to print money. 2. Hasegawa - for being long in the tooth they still build reasonably well even if detail is lacking in the office, wheel wells and attaching the stabs is a pain. LOADS of resin out there to help/irritate/frustrat

It's easy to bypass their sequence - search for build articles, they are out there pointing out the easy step to allow the main gear to be installed later. It's literally one little stub to trim away and the struts slide right in, just anchor well during attachment and problem solved. I built two Academy F-4B's side by side when they 1st came out and spotted right away that their suggested method was a load of hooey, but lots of instructions are that way. As far as intakes I agree getting the interiors to look nice is a chore, but all the kits have that trait, I choose to pick by battles a

Umm I DETAILED my product use and procedure..... SAMF

I have about a dozen of these MRP paints, with one finished project and another past the painting stage to provide this commentary. I'm ready to put final clear coat on my P-38G, which was 1st primered with Mr Surfacer 1500 buffed out with 4K and 6K sanding pads. MRP Yellow Zinc Chromate went down over this, which looked great and needed only minimal buffing before...The OD and Neutral Gray paint which went on very smooth via my Harder & Steenbeck .2 nozzle at about 15psi, taking two thin coats due to the paints sheerness and my wanting to avoid flooding with just one coat. It dries ver